JOHNFAK

Never mind I got you Ryan .., pull lever down and clamp off line to hold vent open ... Will do if I can't find out why no vacuum there

But there's no vacuum comming to the yellow wire so how will vice gripping it help - lost that bit If I blow air down the tube going to vacuum motor by power steering there is little resistance like it keeps taking more air ? Normal ? Don't know if there is a check valve or anything to prevent that anyway Trying to see which line from on top of the firewall then goes inside the cab ...

Ok found one hole and replaced that part but no diff. If I blow onto end of vacuum by the ac. I can feel the air going through no resistance so must be another leak Guess I can't use compressed air on the lines as may blow vacuum seal ?

Injectors will help you pick up mpg if your current injectors are worn out (already bad mpg). Some will argue they are a little more efficient ....... kinda hard to prove unless you replace a stock injector with less than 10000miles and see a gain Timing advancement via a programmer will net most mpg ...........at least for me and many others - doesnt have to be crazy - look at a used powerpuck Your smoke sounds about normal - but do a boost leak check RV275 or anything up to ~100HP works well. I have same mpg with +75s as I did with RV275 - but its a little more fun Jacob at DAP has great prices on RV275.

Mikes got a thread on here about isolating the alternator before you go chasing bad grounds. Do that 1st.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/258-how-to-reset-calibrate-apps-sensor

try an apps resetfixed mine

Check out CF and post a wanted I think its not required - as the transmission cools by the cooler up the front - its actually the exchange to allow heat to exchange into tranny when cold. Or something to that affect. should be easy enough to replace - but might need to take turbo off ....... will try and find a thread that might help ....... - - - Updated - - - http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/496605-heat-exchanger-removal.html http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/476830-failure-transmission-heat-exchanger.html

I agree mike - and not to sound argumentative but there appears a problem on his truck though. 240 degrees coolant temp is NOT normal that I have EVER seen even pulling at 1250 continuous EGT. 210 MAX regardless if everything is working as deseigned. Since he said his EGT was hills 1,000 - 1,200* That makes me think he has a problem with his cooling system somewhere TSTAT/WATERPUMP/COOLANT/FAN/RADIATOR If it was EGT causing the issue I would be thinking BOOSTLEAK/TURBO/TOO FAST Or a bad pyro / gauge What Im real concerned about for him - if its not coolant - he could melt a piston or do real damage. Doesnt add up. Its great cat and you and me and otehrs can do it - but he needs to find the source of the heat issue IMO

Cooler at front or heat exchanger on drivers side of block. Just want to make sure we are talking same thing.

Thanks I was trying to find the original thread I read about tuning all this - here it is for everyone else http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107957 Thanks for the walkthrough. Carl builds twins on CF - Crazy Carls Turbos - hes one of the main builders And where I sourced my kit. He was saying no value in porting out the wastegate on the he351 until your over 600hp. - - - Updated - - - Yeah - but bigger sticks push more fuel means more boost and when your operating in the key mart of the MAP longer then more efficient. So its not always that simple that it makes it worse. Something doesnt sound quite right though ........... boost leaks ? Injector problem ? Intercooler ? I am VERY (overly) conservative with EGT. With my he351cw and +75 sticks as well as HOT UNLOCK level 6 - I could only push black smoke at initial acceleration - as soon as rmp kicked in and spool started NO smoke and EGT at full acceleration up hill at WOT was about 1200. Towing up hill was same - I could push 1250-1300 if I went too fast .......... thats why I went twins ....... but I dont pull a hill at 35 ..... Im generally doing 55+. I have also sinced learned that I am probably overlyconservative on EGT - more than I originally thought. But I still feel better knowing I can pull all day long under 1200. Do what John said - switch out your injectors first ...... and go from there on the turbo. And finally I really do think all the turbo choices are good .... (hx35/he351/hx40/hybrid/s300) ...... problem is noone has run ALL of them so we aere just going off MAP and what we ave read. But properly tuned they will all support 375-400HP and some 500HP In meantime - someone build and run one of these before I do - I want a tester !!!! http://www.pusherintakes.com/24_valve_intake_horn_manifold_3_inch_2nd_gen_p/24vs2gca.htm

I agree. Besides checking for drag ..... no way engine should be getting that hot. So some precautionary work to eliminate a few things. Get a 180 TSTAT - good for towing. Flush your coolant and radiator. Check your radiator and fan. What does your temperatures run during DD. Do you EVER see over 190. W/M sucks - been there done that should have listened to W&F 2 years ago. - - - Updated - - - That would show up as higher EGT - I didnt see his being too high running 5x5 ...... But he did mention all the black smoke - which is strange .......

Problem is you dont have enough fuel to go much over stock. So these turbos are your main choices hx35/hybrid/hx40/he351[xyz]/s300 hx35 should be good for where your at. If you want more and keep the juice turned up then he351/hybrid/super b (s300) Turbo LAG comes from not enough fuel or boost leaks. AH64ID runs a garrett and loves it ...... I dont think it would be worth it for you unless you were going at least to 150hp injectors If you want quickest spooling and yet support 450+HP then a he351. Exhaust brake is hardest part in terms of fitting as they have different flanges to the hx35.

Send me a PM on how you calculated this please Ive got most of it - but where you picked up the PR values and worked out the ratios Carl said not to bother with the turbo wastegate opening unless your over 600HP. Yes I need both gauges But its pretty nice as it is - so just havent made it a priority yet and Im in the process of ordering 7x0.010 Unregulated air to the elbow to see when WG opens you mean ? I think it was 28 psi ...... I think Carl also said that when you run it though it will open earlier due to backpressure from exhaust flow. So then not sure how to tell when its opening at RUNNING conditions. (sorry Rogan - hijacking more than I intended - get back on track soon )

Not yet Its coming. Help me work out the "balanced" boost for each turbo if total manifold pressure is 45psi (my max boost). Based on my PR ratios for these turbos

Nice description. You left out the part about how DP changes with twins tho eg How the HX35 can be taken well outside the normal boost range with twin setup. For giggles and not to hijack - help me calculate mine (I have to do it soon to check my balance - but no guages yet). he351cw/s472. PM me or post here - sure Rogan wont mind 1 quick sidetrack

Thats the most common config. You could go smaller on the primary (s472) for quicker spoolup but youd limit around 550hp I think. The primary turbo isnt the main expense - its the piping and the headstuds and potentially springs

I actually dont mind them Its not nearly as gawdy as I thought it would be.

Im lost - you torched the bolts out ?? ARP studs would be best to prevent from happening again I guess

If its running well after the install (no leaks) you should see a noticeable difference and be quite happy

DP is a concern for efficiency and HG failure. The smaller exhaust turbine and housing can be restrictive and increase DP (in theory). Thing is - when you twin it this changes ...... Im not sure exactly how it works - but ever wondered why you can run a hx35 up to 60 psi in a twin setup - but not as a single From what I have read you can take them to 45-50 psi as a single. But most people run in the 35-40psi range. I have had mine to 45psi in a twin. Going rate for a used he351cw is about 400 on CF. Get 250 for the hx35 if its good. So $150 for changeover and you need a modified downpipe to prevent having to modify the wastegate when clocked. That will run you $100 if you cant build yourself, and you need a hx40 flange adapter and plug for wastegate controller. I REALLY like my twins. Kinda wished I just done hx35/s475 with bigger injectors and built tranny right off the bat ..... as I had a new hx35 at once stage ....... but i have absolutely no turbo lag ..... NONE. And the way it pulls from 20-> to all the way through to my end of fuel ~45 psi is crazy. And EGT start to go down with more boost too ...... weird when you put your foot in it and EGT goes down. - - - Updated - - - Only couple places I saw that would handle the hybrid build properly was $500 plus shipping each way. So $600 for a 60mm wheel. He351cw is $400 after switchout and shipping. But yeah - its basically a new turbo ............ Stick with the hx35 and go with 75's ....... then start saving twins - seriously That way you'd actually get an extra $100-$200 in your hand , really wake the truck up ..... and get to save towards something crazy in teh future

Dont know why I cant find the info Im after yet .... but heres some info .... http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/he351-vs-hx35-t263640.html The he351 has a 7 blade 60mm extended tip compressor wheel. The hx-35 will have a 54mm 7 blade, or 56mm 8 blade wheel. Both turbos have a 60mm turbine, but the wastegate and exhaust outlet on the 351 is much better. ive compared hx-35, he 351 and 35/40 hybrid. the 351 cools egts best of the 3. iwas very impressed with it and the power increase vs the 35 was noticable. i can run 80 mph at 2400 rpm empty 12-14psi boost get 18+ mpg. big injectors. pump almost maxed. .. ... Id sell the injectors man ......... go with something a little smaller and stick with the hx35 and twin it later (start saving). You'll need headstuds or similar after 40psi anyways

^^^ what john said Not sure where you got your flow numbers - pretty sure the he351 flows a lot more than the hx35 - it has a 60mm comp wheel and the hx35 has a 56/57 from memory. Spool up is awesome. It is more restrictive on the exhaust side due to sizing - but I saw very little difference in EGT between my S-HX40 and the he351cw. Probably due to higher cfm . Just much better spoolup. As for running any of the above - EGT will still be an issue with your foot in it - you will probably have to run the edge on level 1 for timing only and use your injectors and foot for fuel. 150 injectors are really for a 62 comp wheel and a 12-14cm exhaust (65-68 turbine). A hybrid and a S300 base are going to be good - but its the $$ for the conversion. Same with the VGT due to the electronic controller. Some guys have done it mechanically - beyond me. If the wallet truly wont allow twins ......... why not sell the injectors and get some +75's/+100's like mine - and go the hx35 or he351cw route - and use your programmer to control fuel levels. I really have all the power I need - Im probably going to go some 7x0.10 (~150 Hp) soon - but I plan to keep my juice turned way down mostly ..... not for EGT as I have twins ..... but breaking my tranny I like the +75's way better than stock/rv275's ....... and pull same/similiar mileage - - - Updated - - - this is what Im running ........ he351cw/s472

He351cw (sell your hx35) you'll be in it for $200-$300 extra to make it work else http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/503736-twin-piping-s475.html You know where my vote is. Also - you can run those 150's with a HX35 - just use your foot to control it - a couple guys do ........ if you had to

This was my bad assumption. I figured if I had vacuum for CAD and cruise then must have vacuum for vents. So not a vacuum issue. Seems on some other forums I found threads where same issue as me and turned to be a leak. So will be chasing it down over next couple days. thx guys