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Dynamic

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Everything posted by Dynamic

  1. I really don't see any converter cycling in that video. I'm trying to make heads or tails of it, though to be honest. It looks like you take off from a stop, and at the 1-2 shift, it shifts, but then the tach jumps UP a few hundred rpm, and then back down, then back up a couple of times before continuing to rev up toward 3K. If I had to guess, based on this video, I'd say it was a 1-2-1-2 shuttle shift going on. What governor pressure solenoid is in the transmission? It also seems like a LOT of rpm going on for how fast you're accelerating. Where is your TV cable set? At what rpm is your WOT 1-2 shift point?
  2. Assuming the rest of the transmission is in good shape (which is anyone's guess, honestly), a valve body, torque converter and deep aluminum pan are great upgrades (along with supporting items such as: billet accumulator piston, billet intermediate servo cover, reinforced band strut, etc.). The million dollar question is what is the condition of the rest of the transmission? I had a 48RE across my bench just the other day that was just here for a valve body, servo cover and accumulator piston. He had the transmission out of the truck for some engine work and just dropped the whole thing off for me to do the work. It had been fairly recently "rebuilt" by some other shop, but after pulling the valve body, I noticed the junk band that they had used, as well as some weird stuff that they had tried to do with the valve body. So I got curious for my customer's sake. I pulled the pump and input assembly out to look at the clutches. The direct clutch was absolutely hammered. I still worked, but wouldn't have for long. I literally just finished buttoning up the complete build on that transmission. I ended up finding a bunch of other stuff that was wrong with it once I got it all torn down. The moral of the story is that you literally don't know the condition of the internals of the transmission without looking at it.
  3. The pass through connector comes as part of the OD/TCC solenoid set.
  4. The pass through connector is leaking internally and needs to be replaced.
  5. I used Dex 3 with a bottle of Lubegard "Black". It's the fluid I've always preferred in the older transmissions. ATF+4 has a TON of friction modifier in it to deal with converter clutch chatter. This affects shift feel quite a bit. If you build it right, and use the right converter, there won't be any slippage to cause chatter.
  6. Sounds like a power distribution problem somewhere. Not sure why the PCM was condemned, but even if the alternator quit charging altogether, the gauge wouldn't drop to zero. Somewhere in the power distribution system, there's a faulty connection. The transmission can't work with no electrical power.
  7. They make their flex plates in-house. They send the proper bolts with new converters.
  8. I use Goerend flex plates on Stage 3 and higher builds. Either way, get that stock one out of there.
  9. I didn't say not to fix the AC problem, but I'd definitely shunt as much of the remaining AC on the TPS circuit to ground as you can. The electronics in those 2nd Gens were too sensitive to AC ripple even when they were new, and haven't gotten any better in the last 20 years as they have aged.
  10. You have leaking diodes in your alternator. While these mods that you're doing do help the batteries dampen some of that AC noise, you have to fix the source of the noise. I would also put a noise filter on the TPS signal line at the PCM as part of the process.
  11. No, there really is no way to adapt it. The 3rd Gen uses an actual range sensor, which has varying resistance based on position, while the 2nd Gens just used a switch for Park/Neutral. There would also be no reverse lights if a 3rd Gen transmission was installed in a 2nd Gen truck.
  12. Neutral safety switch is different.
  13. My suspicion is that your intermediate band has failed (or the strut or anchor has fallen off), and you don't actually have 2nd gear. This happens often with the 48RE, but the 47 is configured the same way, so it's always a possibility. Guys will feel a late shift out of first gear once you get enough road speed, but they're actually feeling a 1-3 shift because it tried to shift to 2nd earlier, but there was nothing there. Idling at a stop, pull the shift lever from Neutral into Manual Low, and then take off normally. Once you're rolling at about 12-15 mph, bump the shift lever up into Manual 2nd. Does it shift to 2nd?
  14. No. Don't touch the TV stop adjustment. That is set to a specific spec when the valve body is built, and shouldn't be touched (although I see someone Transgo kitted the valve body, so who knows where it's set). It is not a "user serviceable" adjustment. The TV plunger will pop out and contact the TV lever once the truck is running and there is line pressure being generated.
  15. When they added TCC lockup to the mix in 1994, they renamed it the A618, but that's not of much use, because there are a bunch of variations off of that. ALL of the 4 speed automatics had "electronic" overdrive, and the '94-newer had "electronic" converter lockup. (I use the term "electronic" because there is much "electronics" involved. They both use a simple on/off solenoid to engage/disengage. There is no PWM.) 1994 and 1995 used the 47RH (hydraulic governor), and in 1996 they came out with the 47RE (electronic governor). There were a bunch of running changes, but they used the 47RE in the '96-newer 2nd Gen trucks, as well as the early 3rd Gen trucks. Somewhere in mid-2003 model year, they came out with the 48RE, which was used through '07.5 when they released the 6.7 Cummins with the 68RFE (6 speed) behind it. The 46RE's were used in gas (5.2L, 5.6L, etc.) 2nd Gen applications. 3rd Gen trucks with gas engines (4.7, 5.7 Hemi, etc.) had the 5-45RFE (5 speed) transmission. The pans are all the same shape all the way back to the old 727. Show a picture of the OD section. How many wires in the main connector to the transmission?
  16. Yessir! I meant tighten...
  17. I'm glad you're getting the shift point dialed in. Now just loosen it a touch, and you should be right there. I'll get that replacement transducer out to you today, hopefully.
  18. Your TV cable is too tight. This has the line pressure too high on your light throttle stuff, as well as your downshifts. Loosen the cable until WOT 1-2 occurs at 2900 rpm. If the cable is out of adjustment (fairly common), you can tweak the bracket down at the transmission. The TV cable setups in these things are wildly inconsistent, so you just use whatever means available to achieve a 2900 rpm WOT 1-2 shift.
  19. A transmission of that caliber is not really all that "built". It's a package that goes through and addresses the glaring shortcomings of the factory setup, but without the billet shafts, servos, etc. It would be the minimum I would recommend doing if you're going to bother doing anything, honestly.
  20. You should be able to get a pretty nice package for that price, but make sure that's what you're getting. If someone is just installing someone else's "kit", then I would move on. Just for reference, our Stage 2 package runs right at $4000 (US), and comes with a flex plate, triple disc converter, deep aluminum pan, and a custom built valve body.
  21. Well, not being able to drive the truck and feel the way the converter is working, I'm pretty much not in a position to give advice on what to do. I can offer suggestions and share experiences to a point, but I simply don't have enough information to steer you in the right direction. The VP44 is not the greatest fuel system that ever came on a diesel, so I tend to agree with the Alaska guys that it can be somewhat normal, and perhaps a price you pay for lowering the stall speed. I certainly have seen this scenario...many times, and it certainly is a consideration when choosing stall speed. But $1300 for a Cascade S3 torque converter?? Ouch...
  22. Man, that sure sounds like a converter problem. An S3 really shouldn't be doing that, but there may actually be something wrong with it. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen it with the cheaper converters.
  23. Not necessarily. I'm just telling you that someone didn't setup the transmission correctly. Assuming that the direct clutch clearance is in a usable range, it can probably be fixed by reworking the valve body and intermediate servo. I'm not trying to make blanket statements about all transmission shops. What I AM saying is that modding a 47RE/48RE transmission is a LOT more than just jacking up the pressures. That's a part of it, but even within that, there are good ways to do it, and not so good ways of doing it, and ways of shaping the pressure curve to better suit the needs of the diesel engine that, quite honestly, the average bench build guy at the local shop will not understand. They can follow "shift kit" instructions, and that's where most local shop builders stop. Unfortunately, you didn't even get that. They just threw some Sonnax valves in it and sent it down the road. That is unfortunate...
  24. Yeah, that's a Cascade S3 converter. Cascade has been out of business for several years now. Not a terrible converter. I used to use them from time to time. They do tend to be on the tight side, but usually worked fairly well. Scanning it will not tell you anything. Even if the TCC solenoid was commanded on, there's no oil at the TCC lockup valve until 2nd gear in a 47RE valve body. Again, the TV stop or TV cable will not have any affect on it. Does the truck stall when put into reverse as well as forward gear?