notlimah

Yea, I'm starting to see why! I can't stand the inconsistency of it and I haven't even had it on for that long! I might just give the isolator the boot and go with the straight forward setup. My only question is I'm currently using the setup from Vulcan so I'm not sure how or where I could plug in the needle valve. I'll run out to my truck and snap a pic real quick to help with the visualization. Ok so here's my thought process, please tell me if it sounds crazy! 1. Red Arrow/Oval will be capped off due to that leading to the isolator. 2. Obviously that will get rid of the hosing and isolator. I'll re-use the push fitting that the hose connects to on the other side of the isolator. 3. Yellow Arrow/Oval will be spliced into and will add the following... Push lock tee Snubber Needle Valve Then the push lock fitting for the hose, then hose to the gauge Does that seem right?

Alright guys I got another update... I'm in the process now of jotting down my psi numbers on every drive so I can track what it's actually doing. Just from taking a quick look at my numbers so far it seems I'm slowly declining. Fast forward to today on the drive into work. Fired her up, psi was right under 15. After getting her warmed up, it got to a solid 15psi, but even under 3/4-WOT I was getting what looked like zero movement. Once I got to work I popped the hood to check for leaks, couldn't find or see any. Next I noticed that I had some air bubbles in my line from my isolator to the gauge. Would that be enough to give me erroneous psi readings on the gauge?

+1

I just figure I can always add a resonator, not the other way around!

Subed!

So I ordered up the exhaust. I'm going to install it as is without the resonator and see how I like it. I saw this video and it made me want to at least try it without the resonator. I know it's a 12v but I can't imagine it sounding any different on the 24v. Hopefully I'm not starting another thread in a couple weeks asking more resonator questions and hearing all you say "I told ya so! :tongue:" I'll try and make my own video of the before and after to share and maybe make others decisions easier!

Anyone used these band clamps? Those are the most solid looking and cheapest I've seen. Might just take a chance and pull the trigger on them regardless.

Hmm... thanks for the input! To install the resonator do you have to cut out a piece of the exhaust and then put in the resonator? Still deciding if I want to be stubborn and try out the exhaust without the resonator. I really don't mind the truck being loud. My other truck I have setup with exhaust so it doesn't drone while driving since it's more the 'family vehicle' then the dodge. Plus most speed limits I deal with on a daily basis are 60 and under so I'm definitely not going to be screaming around! If it's simple to add a resonator later on I might just give it a go, knowing that if I decide to add it later it'll be my own fault!

So it sounds like everyone went with the muffler delete at first and then switched over and added the resonator? I typically don't tow much at all, and usually just run empty. I'll haul an occasional boat during the summer months, but not much. Would it be worth throwing the resonator on right off the bat, or should I just try it straight through and see how I like it and put on the resonator later if its to much?

Ok I'll look for some of those style clamps, they look pretty solid. Is it reasonable to think a 4in clamp is what's used for a 4in exhauat or do you need to get bigger then what your trying to clamp? I'll also be buying from one of our dealers on here!

So I've decided on the 4in DE exhaust. I've heard nothing but good things and buying from a local and US made product is always a good thing IMO. A couple questions... When the exhauat says it comes with a "muffler replacement" is that the equivalent of muffler delete? Also I'd rather not use my stock exhaust clamps, what are some good clamps I could get and how many would I need? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the update Andrew! I'm really tempted to purchase this now! Are you running on a stock trans? What mode were you using at the time that you got boost up to 32psi? Was the boost fooler/elbow part of the EZ package or did you buy one from somewhere else? Sorry for all the questions, you just got me amped up now that taxes are done! Haha

Turns out I'm just a dummie and popped the hood for some reason and just never closed t before driving off -_-

Haha thanks Mike! I appreciate the talk, gave me the 'warm and fuzzy' to make the drive. Made it down to Seattle with no problems (other then the hood not latching and flying open at 45mph!) ugh! Perfect way to top off an already crappy day! But.. My pressure was fairly steady the whole way. Cruising at 65mph around 18-1900 rpm was seeing 18.5psi and by the end of the trip was up to 19.5 and held steady. Hoping things stay the same for a while!

I'll look through some more guides and videos and figure out which way I want to attack this! All I have is a cordless Makita, will that do the job?

So another update! After trying one last time to crank down the JIC and push lock to make sure they were as tight as they could get. Still leaking I gave Eric a call and he sent me replacement parts pretty much no questions asked! Another awesome example of Vulcan customer service!! After getting the old one out, it looked like I was leaking from where the spin nut is. See attachment. Anyways, I wanted to make sure I got this one tightened down right the first time so I removed the intake horn to free up some more space. Got everything put back on and took it for a test drive. So far no leaks!! Over all fuel pressure on my gauge fell a couple PSI after install. It was hovering right around 17.5 at idle and would drop to 15 at WOT. I've since adjusted it to 19-19.5 at idle at 17 at WOT. I mainly did that to make sure I was maintaining that pressure since I'm not entirely convinced that the drop in psi was only due to the small leak I had from the JIC. I figured if it still drops, maybe I need to bleed my line from the isolator to the gauge or HOPEFULLY its not the pump going bad! Any input is appreciated!

eek! Drilling with the engine on sketch's me out! Is that even safe? haha

haha that's pretty strategic parking!

Yea that's pretty much exactly what I was thinking! My main concern is living up here in Washington, we get our rain pretty often so anything I can do to protect that thing I'll do!

Sounds good! Let us know whatever you decide!

For the guys who have one, would it be possible to put the EZ in a small weather proof box? Maybe like a small pelican case or something? I was just trying to mitigate the concern of weather degrading the box prematurely and causing problems.

I'll throw another recommendation for the ISSPRO! I have just the EV series and they've worked well for me! Although I still haven't got my EGT's running! I'm scared of drilling into the manifold! haha

Just curious, any one else running the big line kit from Vulcan have what seems like condensation on the 90* bend of the JIC fitting that goes into the VP44? I thought I got this tightened down enough but this morning on the way to work I noticed my fuel psi was 1-2psi lower then normal, so I popped the hood when I got to work and felt around on the fitting. Nothing really noticeable, but when touching around the 90* bend, it got a LIGHT residue on my fingers but really little. I'm not sure if its an actual leak, or if I never got my engine warm enough to get to that extra 1-2psi. OR, I'm just completely anal over this and working myself up over nothing! Any help or insight would be appreciated!

So was it just a blown fuse that probably happened during install or was there a short some where causing the fuse to blow?

Thanks for that link. I really only need the main headlight housing, my blinkers are still looking nice. Have you ordered any of those yet?