bcbigfoot

I ran my boost gauge line to the intake manifold plug as shown in the picture but was getting terrible gauge bouce at 15 psi or more. I moved upstream a ways to the to the aluminum crossover intake tube, tapped and drilled it, now no gauge bounce. I'm even thinking of relocating the map sensor up stream, the pulses generated from pistons/valves can't be good for it and at around 100$ + not cheap to replace. Another issue is it giving a power enhancer box some boucing input numbers can't help, perhaps stable boost numbers may help with surge issues?. Can anyone think of any downside to relocating the Map sensor?

They are large and take a lot of dust loading before any servicing is required. I put one on my truck but found no mpg improvement or egt's reduction. I found it directed alot more intake noise into the cab, for me it wasn't worth the extra noise and went back to the stock setup, but some seem to like the sound.

Perhaps your engine oil cooler is leaking into the engine coolant. Engine oil pressure is greater than coolant coolant.

Based on ISX's figure of average 55 mph the engine will have a min of 18000 hrs.

Without driving your truck its a little hard to say, but off the top of my head, clutche, ujoint, bent driveshaft, transmission crossmember rubber mount broken, or driveshaft alighments/angles out for some reason. Is it shaking and no power at higher speeds and in which gears? Can you get up to highway speeds or when you say low power it won't even get to third gear or something like that. I think you will need to describe your issues a little further for us to narrow down a possible cause to your shaking issue. I would be surprised if your shaking issue is connected to the low hp issue but just not enough info to go on.

In stock form the 24v's are dogs, and can't compare to a Dmax, it better compares to the GM's old 6.5TD's horsepower and torque wise. I had a 93 6.5TD with 3.43 gears and was very dissapointed in how my new to me 2002 CTD with 4:10 gears pulled my light 4000lb truck camper. This is the bad part, now for the good. All the mod's you have done has added no HP or torque. The mods you have done will help support mod that will give more pulling power. You need to add one of the many performance boxes like, Quadzilla Adrenaline, or XZT+ or edge easy, Edge Comp, Smarty or such. These will add fuel, and boost psi with a boost elbow, and some will reduce or nearly eliminate torque management. Also the addition of a little larger injectors will help as well, as HD64AD has mentioned a good choice would be a RV275 injector. With a few more mods I think you will be amazed at the improvement the Cummins will show, I certainly was.

The main point I was trying to make is if there is a temp sensor and the VP44 calibrates to changing fuel temps., it's another variable that the ECM may take into consideration with its algorithm. Just throwing it out there.

I have been reading some old posts Treads from Turbo Diesel Register, were several people have stated that that there is a fuel temp sensor and compensator in the VP44 for fuel temp changes. One person had claimed that by cooling the fuel he was able to obtain 2mpg better with a unloaded truck. Just wondering if anyone else had heard of this or can add any light on this. Thought I would bring this up in this thread since the question was asked, what could be causing worse fuel mileage (sensor so on) in cold weather when compared to the non ECM/PCM trucks.

Check to see if the ECM is sending power to engage the relay. Also my Airdog came with a fuse in the harness, close to were it connects to power sorce.

I installed a Airdog 100 and a Drawstraw V, 1/2" fuel line and kept my stock fuel filter. I had to go with the Drawstraw V because I had a intank pump. To do it again I would go with a Raptor and 3/8 line all the way to the VP44, that 1/2 line is just silly big for anything under 500hp. I agree with Whitlightening as you really need a J-hook to keep the EGT's down at lower and mid range rpms. I run a untapped Adrenaline, which makes it the same as a ZXT+. I only run 23psi but without the J-hook at times at low rpm's I would only see 16psi when 23psi was really needed to keep EGT's in check.

My truck had the intank pump and a remanufactured VP44 when I bought it with 105,000 miles. I checked the fuel pressure of the in tank pump before replacing it, it had 7psi at idle and wide open throttle was 2psi. My experience is that the intank pump is not much better than the factory engine mounted lift pump.

To open the wastegate the rod/lever would need to go toward the firewall/cab. If you get a good grip on it you could move it but on the truck it's so awkward I would tend to say you couldn't move it, but you are maybe tougher than me.

Good chance the blend door is your issue, this site has some info and a low cost repair part. http://www.heatertreater.net/Dodge%20Ram%2095-02.htm

The first things I would check is coolant level, make sure theres no air in coolant system. Check the heater hoses going into cab make sure they are both getting hot, that could rule out the possibility of blocked heater core or valve not allowing heat to enter heater core. I have heard it is common for the heater door regulator can strip on the shaft and not open and close properly.

Thanks Mopar, ISX, and Sasqch for the info. I have a Maxitrip auto computer, a Chinese version of the Scan Gauge with a few glitches but not a bad unit for 59$ at Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbour Frieght). For testing I will use the 10k pot then once a common resistor # is agreed on then likely a resistor and a switch like Sasqch mentioned.

I want the truck to have the ability to start and run run in cold weather, so I need the IAT to see approx ambient temps. and I can't do that with even a 10k pot as I said earlier lowest temp the 10k pot can produce is only 77f , I suspect with a 5k pot the grid heaters may not even come on in cold weather. For testing I think I will start at 120f and then work my up. good to know that it may throw a code if I go to high. --- Update to the previous post... I like your idea about the toggle switch to make the IAT operate like factory mode. My 10k pot or likely ISX's 5k pot would work as well.

I just installed a 10k ohm potentiometer in the cab and ran wires out to the IAT plug. I have found the lowest I can fool the IAT is to only 77f with the 10k pot.. I should have went with a 20k pot. to get full temp range from -40 to + 300f. This will be a good start anyways. I won't have any hard data until the snow/salt is off the road, as I don't winter drive the truck, it's primarily my camper hauler. I'm excited to do some testing, it will be a long wait.

The Airdog filter is a passive 3 micron filter with a rated flow of around 30gpm. The factory filters were a 10 micron absolute but since the CR engines came out they droped the filter rating to 7 microns absolute, and I believe Baldwin and Fleetgaurd have filters that are 5 micron absolute. The difference between passive and absolute filters can be huge especially when you are pushing 5 times its rated flow through them. A passive filter is like a K+N airfilter, some places will catch a small particle but in other places it will let a bird through. If you cut open a Airdog filter you will be surprised at how small it is compared to the factory filter. Up until a year ago Airdogs came with a 130 micron screen that they called thier water seperator, it was rated at 50gpm and could catch somthing like 5% of the the water. At 100 or 150 gpm it is useless. In the last year they started using a better filter but is also rated much to low and is still only half as good as the stock filter for water seperation. I bought the Airdog 100 and thought I had got a good system until I started looking into the filters a little deeper. I don't know if you read the waver Airdog makes you agree to in order to get thier Lifetime warrenty. It basically says you are giving up any right to sue them if thier system hurts your truck. Hmmm makes you think. But on the good side the pumps seems very strong and well built.

I would go a little different route if 330hp will make you happy, it makes me happy. I'm running this power as well. I would go: 1) raptor lift pump for 375$ with big line kit 35$, the stock filter is better, larger and can hadle more volume than the airdog and fass filters (marketing gimick) the pump it good.2) Shift kit and some day a little better TC, you really should get line prssures up some to make the clutche packs last. Or use disapline and discresion at lower rpms.3) edge juice or addrenaline with attitude for fueling and gauges, seen them for as low as 559$, don't tap the pump, since that may cost another 1100$ for a new VP. You will need a J hook or = and set boost at 30psi.3) Install rv275 injector for 330$4) Keep your 3" exhaust and stock air filter housing, The stock filter housing is better or as good as any Cold air intake (make that hot air intakes) when making under 500hp. Turbo Diesel Register has tested 7 differant CAI and came to that conclusion. Larger exhaust will only help EGT's a small amount at 330hp and gives a little faster spoolup but thats not a big problem for a hy35 turbo. This setup will give you 3 to 4mpg better results and will not exceed 1250egts even towing on mountain passes on a hot day. Very good towing setup.

I was wondering that as well.

I have been amazed at how clean the oil in my 5.9 stays, I,ve owned and operated dozens of diesels and this one stays the cleanest by far. I would compare it to new gas engine for changing oil color. At 3500 miles it will still look like I just changed the oil, at 6000 miles it a little brown on the dip stick but is still translucent. Also after 6000 miles it only down 1/2 quart. So far I,m impressed with this little 5.9.

Appears to be the same as my 02.

I also have the Vulcan Drawstraw V and AD100 with no 1/4 tank issues, I have drove the truck for 50 miles after hitting the empty line on the fuel gauge as a test to see how far it would go , I had 5 gallons and tools with me at the time.

I would check to make sure you are getting power for your lockup to work first off. Remove your Lockup switch ground wire and replace with a test light, go far a little test drive, test light should be lite all the time since the ECM only grounds the TCC solinoid to command lockup. it will tell you if your getting power to the TCC solinoid.