01cummins4ever

I have replaced barbed wire fence around my place that had cedar, or juniper post I believe are about the same, that's been in the ground for 50 years and some were still solid, so I just used them for firewood. I ended up replacing the whole fence using 6" round PT post every 50' with metal t post in between. but in your case if you are going with the pine, like stated above treating them should last many years, I framed up a firewood shed about 10 years ago using 4" square rough cut post and treated and cemented them 36' in ground and still no signs of deterioration. As far as deer fence, my dogs do a pretty good job at keeping the critters away.

Well I determined the mfs switch was not at fault, I just plugged a bulb directly into the factory side of harness and it functions correctly on both sides. I removed the high side relays and tested them on bench and they both failed, so something blew them out. @IBMobile is right that something is not wired up right. I don't know but could the plugs in the headlights be reversed?

or one of these would come in handy lol.

I will double check, but when I was checking on the low beam I think pin 30 was hot, that was on the high beam relay Strange if if it was wired backwards that it worked when first hooked up, but also the quality of the high beams were not as great as they should have but I thought they just needed adjusted up some. I will do some more digging on it this weekend at home.

I got a chance to check it it today and found I did have a blown fuse on the high beam on the left side harness. Replaced it and have power at pin 87 but not 30 also have power at 86. I can jump wire from battery to pin 30 and lights will come on, so my bulbs and conections should be good. The right side harness is the exact same scenario, only no blown fuse.

Thanks for the replies guys, I do have a cheap multi meter inthe rv, I will try those test in the daylight tomorow,

So I'm out on a road trip and last night when I turned my lights on the brights never came on, the bright is illuminated on the dash but no headlights, I have just recently upgraded to the dual sport headlight from DAP, and before I left I also installed the relay wire harness kit from DAP, and they were all working fine for the last week or so. I still got the dim side but no brights. I checked fuses and relays and are still good, I am wondering if it's in the mfs switch on column or light switch on dash, Any ideas what to check, I'm out on a road trip so kind of limited to what I can do.

I'm sure it's just a matter of time and it will be on the shelves everywhere. As I understand the oil will be the same viscosity like 15/40 just in the new class of ck-4 specs. From what I have read it may be an improved oil but I guess only time will tell, they tell us it's compatable with older engines but you know how government works, they will tell you anything just to push it forward, one things for certain it's comming and probably going to cost more.

Make several bumps with the starter to prime fuel filter and keep it full before cranking, that and good battery charge and like @Dieselfuture said just a squirt of starting fluid should get you going.

Are you painting this yourself?

I don't have a link handy but try Vulcan performance for isspro ev 2 gauges, you will need pyro, trans temp, fuel pressure for sure and then boost if you can swing all 4. As far as brakes I would not go with extra performance parts, stock oem is just fine, as far as my opinion slotted rotors are a waist of money, and the Chevy 1 ton brake cylinders too. If your truck has the rear load leveler rod on rear drums just in hook it and makes a world of difference on the rear drums. Along with keeping your truck brakes up it's highly important to keep your trailer brakes up too, as that's going to be a lot of your stopping power. I run a 47 re slightly built with Billiet converter and stock valve body, I run 285/75/16 with stock engine and pull 19K with truck/30 ft. 5ver, and boat, and on 6-7 % grades up to 9 miles long I don't see more than 2500 rpm and that's with keeping all my gauge readings within tollerances. As far as your 2800 rpm on a hill that short, I would pull the trans dip stick and see if any signs of burnt fluid.

I know the products you get at the local parts stores just dont seem to have the cleaning power, I try to have a couple of spray bottles on hand and use my own solutions, sometimes solvent from the local hardware store or if I dont have any I will just use straight diesel or WD/40 in bulk, What ever you use make sure to rinse well with water, I like to make a mess at the local car wash and not in my own driveway. A couple cans of brake clean used sparingly can go a long ways too. Depending what you spray through them the spray bottles only work a couple times but they get the job done.

When I replaced mine a while back I figured it was s good time to add a longer hose on the bottom to cut down on splattering diesel all over, my original drain hose was a liiile short. A longer hose at least I could get it in a drain pan

Great! thanks Mike, I'm going to pick up some supply's this weekend and try to get this part Done. I got a 25' run from the breaker/converter box to the inverter and plan on installing the switch close to the breaker/converter and running some 14/3 Romex to the inverter in conduit

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1488515248&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+100w I pulled the trigger on this starter kit from renogy, if it proves to be something that I want to further invest in it is expandable up to 400w. I installed two Duracell 230 AH. 6v. golf cart batteries so far and got room for more if ever needed. I installed a 1500/3000w. pure sine inverter in the next compartment over from the batteries, Keeping the input battery cables to the inverter at about 20" in length. So my question is What is the best way to wire this inverter into the 110 a/c outlets, I know I need to keep the converter isolated when running on inverter power, and I need to figure out how to wire in a switch to do that. @Mopar1973Man I read your thread on a DPDT switch you did, can you elaborate on how you did that, I have seen some of the fancy auto transfer switches but that's getting more complicated than I want to go at this point. I also want the option to return it to straight shore power when not running off the batteries.

Ive been reading your thread over on the ott site, , if it aint one thing its another, So you dont have any local machine shops that are set up for it ? I'm sure you could find one in the Denver area, maybe one of the other forum members closer than I am could help out. here"s one link I found in the greater Denver area. www.bandmachineshop.com Or there is a guy here locally Ive dealt with over the years, He is an old school machinist and quite good at what he does,I dont know if he is set up for cam grinding or not but give him a call and he will let you know. I will enclose his web page Frontier Machine.htm if the link dont open call Dart 970-882-4662

I dont know if the links I posted are view-able or not but according to 49 CFR 393.65 6d. All fuel systems,, and 49 CFR 393.67 Liquid fuel tanks in the FMCSR manual, you would have to read it in its entirety to determine if its actually illegal. It sounds like the op who posted that infro just cut bit and pieces from the original FMCSR rules and regs to promote the sale of a product in this case would have been ATTA Tanks. I am not promoting either draw straw or tank sump but after reviewing the rules it does not appear that a sump would be illegal, due to the fact it is not continually gravity fed to the injection system, its flow is cut off by the fuel pump, and it would make no difference if it were siphoning through a draw straw or gravity fed through a sump. If their was a break in the fuel flow line between tank and pump, even on a draw straw their would be nothing to stop the siphon effect until fuel supply runs out. I'm not sure how our trucks fit into the FMCSR rules, but if they are engaged in any type of commercial use for hire like a hot shot truck, tow truck or welding rig with a dot #, they would be subject to all the rules and regs like the big rigs. Any way not to stir up any controversy but just my on whats legal or not. 49 CFR 393.65 - All fuel systems.htm 49 CFR 393.67 - Liquid fuel tanks. _ US Law _ LII _ Legal Information Institute.htm

@Mopar1973Man are you referring to the sump systems installed on bottom of tanks ?

Yep, probably misprint, I would think 5931 is correct number,

I don't see a problem with it, it states that it replaces mopar ms 5391, It does not have to be brand specific

Nothing but straight off the shelf power steering fluid, Stay away from atf or Hyd. oil.

@Mopar1973Man I have the exact same problem with the sport headlights conversion I done a couple weeks ago. I have been running around at night with dims only, my fix is to do the britebox just for simplicity, I hope it works. I do have brites but they just don't reach out very far. I'm not opposed to the relay kit either, just seems the brite box is just plug and play, and a little cheaper, unless your wiring your own, it will be a lot simpler and quicker for someone not so electrical inclined like myself. Anyway keep us posted how it works out.

most of my plowing is done with a 1984 chevy blazer with a 1979 western straight edge hydraulic blade, old equipment but the investment and maintenance is minimal, I have paid for my set up many times over plowing out neighbors and subdivisions. but when the windrows get to tight its all tractor work from their. like stated above the plow sub frame mounts permanently to your vehicle and connecting and disconnecting plow is just a matter of a minute or two. I do think a skid steer with a 4-way straight blade is the ultimate driveway and parking lot snow plow, but that could be a big investment for the typical home owner. If the snows we have been getting is going to be the new norm, I am going to be upgrading the 26 horse tractor to something in the 50 horse range, powerful but yet small enough for tight driveway work and easy transport.

winter time or early spring camping I dont even want to see a tree, nothing but hills covered with saguaro cactus and a crystal blue laked for me. If I go with two 6v batteries with 215 amp hrs. wired in parallel, I will have 12v. output , but still 215 ah, still would be sufficient. If I use this formula for daily power consumption I would be using about 50 ah per day. 3 lights for 4 hrs. (4 hr. x 4.5 amps = 18ah) water pump for 45 min. per day (.75 hr. x 5 amps = 3.75ah) TV/ and reciever for 4 hrs. per day ( 4hr. x 6 amp =24ah) misc. chargers pilot lights, ect... (about 2ah} total is 47.5 amp hrs per day. that would only be about 30% of total battery storage. to replenish the power with a 45w solar charger it would take 12.6 hr of sun light per day according to this formula 45w @ 12v. is 45w divided by 12 = 3.75 amps 3.75 amps divided by 47.5 ah = 12.6 hr. now if I go with a 100w. solar charger I think I could reduce the charging time to 5.7 hrs a day using the same formula, these are just scenerios but does give me something to go off of.