01cummins4ever

Being in the cold winter climate I am, my winter cover is a rather cheap one, I just use a mud flap between the cac and radiator, it’s not a high dollar manufactured one but does the job, I believe it help get the engine up to temperature in the cold sub zero temps while rolling down the highway, I usually put it in around December or so and will leave it in till about March, Although a couple times on my spring camping trips pulling loads in the warmer country I did experience some hotter than normal engine temps when I realized I forgot to remove it.

Looks like that one going to be a slow process, hopefully they put a good drilling and blasting crew on,

The way we do it in Colorado Here is a video and a few pics I took of a rock removal I was involved in last year, two rocks (house size each) came from about 1000 ft. Upslope ,one made it across the road, leaving a 30’ wide by 15’ deep crater in the road, that rock is still there, the one blocking the road had to be mitigated. There was talk about building a new road to wind around it but option one was chosen 3 day s and we had the road open to one way, Rocks fell at 4:00 pm on a Friday and had debris stacked and road cleared and open to one way by 2:00 pm on Memorial Day, That included having to get clearance to work on private property, Rock scaling crew, geologist and state engineers and the works. 3310AF57-2CE1-4FE5-8FEF-1F523BADFE1C.MOV

Hope your on the right track, not an uncommon thing for the lift pump circuit to fail through the ecm, but if it proves so, their are ways to wire it up with relays and such to make it safe, Maybe some one could chime in with IBmobiles lift pump relay diagram, I’m working a lot in a no cell service area so posting is limited , Or you could go the mechanical fuel pump route like I did and not have to deal with it lol!

Check your lift pump by connecting directly to battery, by passing the ecm, If problem goes away it probably an ecm or wiring issue, if it’s still their I would say defective lift pump or VP. In your first post I think you stated you had this issue before you replaced both lift pump and VP?

looks good, Hope you have a good trip, I Know I’m due for another one, this was a good weekend to stay home and let all the Holliday warriors have it

You could also help confirm the wheel bearing failure with an infrared laser heat gun by comparing the temps on each bearing I used this method on our Tahoe, I couldn’t tell if it was the cv axle or bearing but the heat gun helped me narrow it down to the passenger side wheel bearing, their was about 30 degree difference in temp readings, took the hub off and it was obvious, not totally gone but would have grenaded eventually

^^^ That is what my transmission builder said he puts in his rebuilds too, he said it wasn’t *snake oil*. Lol! I changed the oil after about 10 months to instal a plus 4 ATS deep pan and a derale cooler. drained 6 quarts out of factory pan, it took 12 to fill it back up

I would verify the fuel pressure readings with a test gauge, could be in the gauge or sending unit itself, I’m not to sure about the mechanical gauge but electric ones have been known to give false readings sometimes. Might check your bypass valve, take it off and clean the plunger real good, could be sticking toward the closed side allowing pressure to rise a little

Well congrats on a successful retirement, sounds like your decisions paid off well my youngest son is expressing interest in the firefighting field, hope he follows through, but he would have to move somewhere line a big city to really make a career out of it, we have a lot of volunteer around these rural parts which is great experience but still got to make a living while your doing it. Their is no shortage of wild land firefighting though, we are constantly surrounded by wildfires every summer

It does sound like TC locking issues, and generally it’s ground related, I would start by checking the ac noise at the alternator like @IBMobile was explaining, and doing the w-t ground mod if you haven’t already, it helps a lot and gives you chance to see how the grounds are run and get them cleaned up, and good battery cables and connections are a must, you might try unplugging your alternator and taking it out a spin.

Does it do it at higher speeds like 55 or 60 and faster

International Lt , its a rebranded pro star with a reworked interior, and a few other quirks, We got a few of these within the last couple years, ( Pretty much the cheapest trucks on bid) Some Drivers love them and some hate them, unfortunately I’m on the latter, I can do without all the creature comforts since most of my work is lowboy and recovery and within a 500 mile radius, A day cab suites me fine, All my away from home work is hotels and Perdium, I still prefer the KW’s and long nose Petes, guess I’m still stuck on the old school ‘chicken hauler’ truck, As long as it’s all air ride and long legged gear ratio I’m good with it, I got two more years left where I’m at then be eligible for retirement, Been at this outfit going on 25 years and been slinging chains and dragging cables for the last 15 years and starting to take its toll on me, but probably just hit the road for another 10 years or so, we will just have to see where this economy going after a couple years

one or these days your going to get to the doors, I can’t wait, with the work your doing so far I’m sure it’s going to be excellent

Kind of sounds like a transmission locking/unlocking issue, @ColoradoColt you say it starts to surge at 35 -40 mph, Does if feel like transmission torque converter is rapidly locking and unlocking? This could cause a surging effect

I sure would take that 80’s model W9 KW over what I just got, nowadays trucks are designed around steering wheel holders, I just got a new semi recently, had to give up a 2000 model pre emission freightliner FLD, with series 60 Detroit and 18spd. Drove that thing daily for the past 12 years. Put 600k on it. Now I got a 2019 sloped nose Cornbinder truck with a 565 Cummins x15 backed with an 18 speed. It’s got the power but I hate it, It’s kinda like putting a Cummins 24v. In a Toyota Tundra, aerodynamic styling sucks and just wrapped in plastic

If you have the factory fuel heater in the factory canister, you can run it in conjunction with the new fass, If you live in the cold winter country it might be worth keeping,

Correct # 3 is the return. when installing the auxiliary cooler under bed, I cut the factory steel return line in the straight area before it 90’s into the transmission, then just loosen fitting on transmission and swing that fitting 180 . Then retighten to get line headed toward the aux. cooler, gives your new auxiliary cooler lines straight back without unnecessary bends

Glad you enjoyed your trip to the great Southwest, The desert can be a beautiful and yet harsh place to be if your not prepared, I love it out their in the winter and early spring, once it hits 90 though I’m heading back to the high country

That’s just too hot. ?

I got to test this thing out under load and I must say this cooler rocks, With everything hooked up I’m grossing 21.5k, I didn’t go over wolf creek but got to test it with some other large hills that were about 8 miles long and 5-6% plus lots of rolling hills and city driving, the hottest I have got toward the top at the steepest grade and that was 210 degree, keep in mind that I’m still probing at the output trans line so the temps in the pan are significantly cooler. Even with my engine temp creeping up to 215, the trans output seemed To be 5 degree cooler. On flat and rolling hills It maintains 160 consistently, I do run with the overdrive locked out when loaded this heavy, the city temps will creep up to 190 in stop and go traffic with 80-90 ambient temps,, I was under the impression that the cooling fan was going to be noisy but can’t even hear it, probably due to its location under the bed, I just bypassed the thermo temp switch probe it came with and have a toggle switch in the cab and I can flip it on and give the cooling a head start if I’m coming to a big grade ,

On my last recent outing With the 5ver hooked up, and pulling some of Colorado’s steeper grades like wolf creek pass that’s 9 miles and 7-9% grade with a couple hairpin switchbacks and no breaks climbing the grade to help with cooling, my trans was creeping up to 250’ before I reached the top, ( the trans temp probe is on the output line side so I am reading the hottest temp possible as it’s just leaving the torque converter) as I was nearly to the top I just kept going and let it cool at the summit, grossing around 19k, everything else was holding its own, but the transmission temps, and having a fresh tranny rebuild I need to try prolong the trans. life the best I can, so I figured the best way to reduce the hot output temps was to reduce the fluid temps in the pan. So I ordered the Derale hyper cool 15960, Derale has a few coolers out there but I chose this one because of the stacked plate cooler core and 1/2” fittings and 500 CFM fan, I pared this up with the ATS deep trans pan, mostly for the built in trans temp probe in the pan and a drain plug. but it’s a beefy looking unit anyway. I was trying to find a remote location for this cooler, and with a short bed 4x4 space was limited, and I mean really limited , most people install these behind the transfer case with the long beds but my fuel tank was not allowing that to happen, I also wanted to avoid mounting outside of frame for obvious reasons, so I had to move it under the bed and to get away from the muffler I was damn near right above the rear axle, I also wanted to keep it mounted at a 45’ angle to help with air flow to the core, and trying not to let it hang straight down for the fear of it coming in contact with road debris, fabbing your own brackets is a necessity with these as they are just a universal fit for all vehicles, The kit only comes with 10’ of 1/2 rubber line so being far back toward the rear I had to go to the parts store and get 10 more feet to get it back to the transmission . here’s a few pics what I got so far, I do plan on keeping the temp probe on the output line just for testing to see how much the output temps reduce, then I’m going to move it to the pan and I’m sure the temps will be reduced quite a bit, If I can regulate 210 degree in the pan towing heavy and steep I’ll be happy, tomorrow’s project is to wire the fan with an override switch to turn it off and on as I see fit, I will update how the temps go, as I might be doing another road trip, this time with the boat hooked to the 5ver.

I would just try replacing the starter contacts in the solenoid, mine did that a long time ago, and replaced the contacts, still cranking on the original starter at 350k, back then napa was stocking them, but you can still get them on order, I know Genos or Larry B’s still stocks them

A stock valve body will allow lock up in 3rd and overdrive like you explain .a modified VB will allow lock up in 2nd.