01cummins4ever

Optimal trans. Temps, 140 - 190 like you have, The primary purpose of the HE is to bring the Temps up to optimal 140-190 degree right off the get go. Depending on your winter temps and driving conditions you may as well be throwing ice cubes on your cooler, for the trans temps might creep just over the 100 degree mark, it really does rely on engine coolant for heating and cooling.

Winter arriving a little late here in Colorado, started snowing Tuesday, Only dropping 3 or 4” everyday until Thursday night then 20” overnight, it’s pretty much out of here until the next system arrives on Tuesday, unfortunately we should have snow like this starting in October, We need one of these storms at least once a week until February to get caught up on a normal snow pack so the dessert southwest can have water for the cities and suburbs, Typical total snow fall accumulation here at 8-10000 ft. elevation is around 250”. Still got a ways to go. Truck was a little grumpy this morning at -6.degree it’s 7400 ft. At the house

10 years, 100k miles seems about the lifespan of even a good rebuilt stock 47re, behind a Cummins, find out what kind of upgrades he can do to enhance the life span, upgraded valve body capable of lock up in all gears, Billet parts, extra cooling, etc.. A stock 47re is just Blah.. It will just die a slow death

I don’t know if horn works, I didn’t check, ordered one from rock auto, they seem to have the best price, and decent shipping time

Got abs codes scanned, told me rear axle speed sencor, so picked one up and while I was at it got some new brake shoes, got home and popped the passenger side and they looked like time to replace , I took the drivers side drum off and all the hardware came out in pieces. a bent e brake lever, and desinegrated adjuster wheel, along with a few other pieces that fell on the floor. Did I mention my Truck hadn’t been stopping worth a ***** latley, so back to the parts store and pick up new hardware, everything except the e-lever bracket, Drove 200 miles so far, no abs or brake light, along with flushing the old fluid, brakes feel like normal mediocre 2nd gen brakes again still no cruise control but the air bag light came on so that’s probably in the clock spring I would assume

@Turbo Terry you are close Torque = HP X 5252 divided by RPM you can switch it around HP = Torque X 5252 divided by RPM

@Evan yes, brake lights work I understand how beneficial it would be to just replace everything due to age and mileage, but.. don’t really have the time or even the room in the shop and with winter coming on don’t want to do it outside either, at any rate I’m determined to find the culprit, hopefully getting the codes read by a good abs scan tool will help I did my hydro boost re seal a few years years back, but getting serious and start replacing some of this high mileage stuff Is definitely on my short list next spring or this winter if I can get my truck in the garage, front unit bearings and calipers and shocks are on the short order. still running the originals (except shocks) since new.

@LorenS I do not have access to the FSM, I do have other manuals with directions of trouble shooting some of the individual components like the combination valve and sensor resistance which I plan on doing @Silverwolf2691I was referring to this in general, I did find a local shop that said he could pull the abs codes on my truck, we will see how that goes this week, dealer says they are a week out before he can even get me in

I’ve just about on information overload In searching out this abs brake issue and trying not to parts change components until I find the problem, I do have rear brake abs along with rear drums, abs and brake light come on only after first full application of brakes and will stay on along with the spongy and week brakes, system will reset itself when I turn key off and then the cycle starts again the first time brakes are applied, they act like air in the system and it seems like I can gain a little by pumping but not much. I have not tried bleeding at the wheel because it seems if it’s leaking internally it wouldn’t do any good, It does not leak any fluid. The speedo works as it should and cruise control will not work or even illuminate on dash, I have not taken to dealer yet for codes but wondering if they can pin point a bad master cylinder or that thingy thing ( I forgot the propper name for that) aft. the master cylinder or any other parts in the system

I have no experience with the mishimoto, When I was shopping for a radiator I did not want to spend that much money, nor could I afford one but I do believe with their all aluminum cores and tanks, and price they better be top quality. I just went with a auto parts store radiator, The store said it was a Murray but the box said spectra, I dunno but it’s been fine for several years, it’s just an oem replacement with its plastic tanks, If it does fail in the future I would just swap it out with another, it’s almost easier to put in another than it is to repair or clean them

If I was to buy a new truck tomorrow, I would have to do it without parting with my 2nd gen, Treat it right the value will continue to climb, just look at the value of the muscle car era of late 60’s and early 70’s, and what they are worth today, even with the emissions literally chocking them out, I don’t see in a crystal ball but don’t see the internal combustion engine going away in my lifetime, maybe in my kids lifetime who knows, I’ve been driving semi for 30 years and only have a few good years left, way to much demand and dependent on diesel to try and pull the plug completely,, we already do a good job cleaning the air of particulates with DPF systems and such, even though the DPF is a good system on its own it’s all the over engineered and mandated sensors and garbage that makes them fail. hopefully we can just continue to improve on what we have, No matter what mandates the gobermint throws at us we are resilient and will find ways to overcome, that’s just the way we are here in the USA,

I thought about a cover once, I have a 34’ fifth wheel. For one, it’s to risky to shovel snow on the roof without taking a chance On stabbing something with the shovel, lots of plastic upon a RV roof. If it had a tarp on it that would make it next to impossible to shovel, plus like moparman says the tarp is just going to rip anyway, I think the going rate for a 34’ rv tarp is above 500. bucks. Two to three ft. snow storms here are not uncommon, and that the snow just freezes and more accumulates. thats a lot of snow load. I have found it easier to just transport the rv to the lower country for storage in the winter, at least if it does snow on it their it will melt off, If I was determined to keep it at the house every winter I would consider building a pole barn roof over it,

You connect two 6V together in series to get 12V.

I am at 5 years on my Duracell 6v 230 amp hr. wet cell batteries, I have a pair wired in series, not bad for 150.00 each. I maintain them with the ways mentioned already, the trick is if your going to charge them and leave them hooked up, Do a parasitic draw test, some CO detectors can be a big power drainer with an RV sitting at idle with 12v power alone, If I am keeping it plugged in to 120 for extended periods I will leave something on, preferably the fridge, If leaving it with just batteries I will give them a full charge then dis connect them. I will do this if I take it to the lower country for winter storage, absolutely the best method to avoid snow removal,

This is what I use, if you can’t find the super tech, All the Wally worlds usually have this in the sporting goods/marine dept. just about 17.O0 and some change per gallon here. I have a merc outboard that uses it so it just makes since to share a little with the truck. As long as it’s TC-W ( two cycle -water cooled )