KOYOTE

if i turn up my edge and full throttle from a dead stop i can compare to that but it clears as soon as the boost comes on, might post a vid tommorrow.

now that looks more like it, i thought the first pic was missing a few valves:thumb1:

the axle does move closer to the cab because the trailing arms tying the axle to the frame are on the rear of the axle so when you increase the distance from the frame to the axle the angle of the trailing arms increase and pull the axle to the cab. this could be corrected with lengthening the trailing arms. the same rule applies to the steering linkage the distance to the steering box to the axle increases a dropped pitman arm helps correct this. now what will fit 4x4 dodges have great clearance from the axle to the fender stock however when turning larger tires begin hitting the trailing arms the only correcting of this is to decrease backspacing on the rims either by spacers or rim replacment, 35's rubbed the trailing arms on my truck but the hummer rims i installed reduced the backspacing by a inch and now i can turn my steering from lock to lock with no rub. all that to say this stock rims = a 33 inch max tire with no more of 10 inch width.

my snap on solise views the abs just fine and i can watch all wheel speed on data feed to see if a wheel sensor is dropping out. my dodge does have sticky switches on steering wheel really have to bow up to engage cruise.

way easier to see on a scan tool, but you should get a base ohm reading with the wheel static and start spinning the wheel the ohm reading should increase. if the meter shows no resistance or infinate resistance the sensor is shot.

http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V178304323~C32992~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/70910848/78218987/78219152/78219227/34853741/34867926/34868471/34868577/78674563/78674564 REMOVAL [*]Release hood latch and open hood. [*]Remove push-in fastener attaching seal to radiator closure panel. [*]Remove park and turn signal lamp. [*]Remove screws attaching top of headlamp module to radiator closure panel. [*]From behind front bumper, remove screws attaching bottom of headlamp module to radiator closure panel. [*]Separate headlamp module from radiator closure panel. Headlamp Sporthttp://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V178304323~C32992~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/70910848/78218987/78219152/78219227/34853741/34867926/34868471/34868577/78674563/78674565 hope the pics help!!!

the vacuum line coming off the vacuum pump, (in front of the power steering) leading up to the firewall and t-ing in near the valve cover. this line is most likely cracked or forgot to plug back in simple push on fittings. if this is the cause the a/c vents wont actuate either.

wheres college and what did you major in. 5 yrs is a long term investment not to persuit something your over qualified in. good luck though.

still hunting rebuild parts 4 those jap compressors i didnt forget my plates just a little full at work

so has anybody figured out a way to increase boost on a auto turbo, mine wont see more than 24 psi, i must have more.

a cummins radiator laying on the back of a perfect cummins canidate, that old rusty chevy is sweet:thumbup2:

fullllllllllll pullllllllllllll !!!!!! bet the tailgate and bumper soot up pretty good though.

i suggest only make right turns! no really is your fuel level low, the fuel might be running away from the pick-up causing it to suck air that would cause a engine hesitation.

i'm not afraid of heights, i'm afraid of falling from them:tongue:

yea what he said like that.

not a real expert at that new of vehicle but i will say this. if you jump the brake wire to the turn signal brakes will probably work fine but when you attempt to use your turn signal you will create a path for both lights, so it will function like the hazard lights both sides will flash:banghead:

wow i thought my toy's were expensive! very cool though... my turn me next:hyper:

that is a thing of beauty, thank you.

lovin the 4b, would have to have a old 4x4 jeep on some 35's with the 4b jammed in it. not a very common engine in these parts though.

real stiff coil springs and a 24v cummins? should have plenty of tire spin and good fuel milage. might run a little faster than your ram too, i'm sure it might weigh 60 or70 pds less than the 4x4.

got it boss man:thumbup2:

so as i see it this chart neglects the difference in fuel efficiency and burn rate of these fuels and how that would change the differance in cost per mile?

i would buy a 5cyl. diesel powered avalanche:wink:

well i read this earlier and came back to it a few hours later and read it slowly again and i am glad to see no real responses. this leads me to believe i am not totally retarded by not having a good comprehension of this chart, but none the less it looks cool and i'm sure theres people here smarter than me that will enjoy it.

i live where cold is anything below 50 degrees so don't mind my ignorance but if that heater is running is it like a 1000 degrees right next to it and 40 below at the other end of the house?