Vais01

Yes I know pusher. I wish I could do this to my truck. It would help with the cab noise.

So prey do tell how one goes about relocating the battery.

I wish you all the best. It would be ashame to ingest metal over trying to prove a point.

What happened?

Good to hear. Remember you can back flush the air filter to knock out the large debris on the Volant/Donaldson Power Core filters. Just be sure to use low pressure air no more than 10 PSI if memory serves me right.

I had a grid heater deleted up until this past fall. No need to delete the grid as it will not change EGT or performance. Now as far as starting I've cranked up in the low teens and other than more noise and white smoke everything was fine once everything warmed up. I will suggest high idle warm up vs regular idle to get everything up to temps.

I will be waiting on that. I wouldn't want the skinny shafted and a turbine with a single vented volute on a twin turbo truck.

Thank you sir. It's ordered and on the way.

I hate to say it but a NEW Cummins ECM would be the way to go as well as inspecting the main ECM harness for excessive corrosion on any of the contacts or high resistance values.

The HX35 will be okay but the waste gate configuration only vents one of the volutes in the turbine housing which may cause higher than normal drive pressure for 3 of the 6 cylinders compared to a S300G.

I have heated mirrors and I have yet to feel enough heat coming from them to melt ice. I wonder if they even work.

Interesting wonder what's different and what the reflash did?

I second the need for a ton of pictures and a write up.

Great to know. Glad you got it fixed up.

There you go. Hope that helps in the future. Now I've run into the famous blend door coupling failure. Any ideas where to get another one.

Found it. Main vacuum line broke. I replaced it and rerouted it through the driver side of the firewall after I found a diagram.

Pretty much.

Picture of the high beam if you can I'm curious.

Well guys I just replaced my heater core and my air only comes out the defrost and floor vents. Any suggestions why? I'm about fed up and about ready to send it to the dealership.

Just an update I ran the LED headlights only to find out the position of the high beam LED was incorrect which caused the light to go wider rather than further. So I'm currently back to upgraded Sylvania Halogens.

Well from my knowledge you can set a 0500 by mismatched wheel spin. So if your driving and your front tires are going slower than the rears you can set that code. Excessively oversized rear tires and factory sized tires in the front could also be a culprit.

Well this may sound odd but if you want to try it may help. If you know how to MEG wires I would do that. Chances are a wire break somewhere within the system. I know it's a long shot but if you or someone you know has the tooling and knowledge to do it I'd give it a whirl.

Looks like you drove behind a bushwhaker for a good 10 miles. This may sound a little redneck but some trimmed home AC filter taped over the vent helps. Knew a handful of guys in south Texas doing that in high dust conditions they said it actually helped and it was cheap. Same here mostly dirt and dust. My aftermarket hood is probably what helps since the hood covers the AC vents up.

Great work finding your root issue. I had set mine up for maximum opening of 16CM also. With my Quadzilla on 10 EGT was high but the boost kicked up to 40 PSI very quickly. You and I have noticed the same thing. I had and still run 285/70R17 tires and weight is an issue but the key is rolling resistance when trying to achieve maximum MPG. I had the best MPG cruising at 7 PSI of boost on the HE351 when I ran it. My current configuration on my SIGNATURE is the same MPG but only 1-3 PSI of boost depending on load and RPM. Odd how that works I'm guessing the reduction in drive pressure for my current configuration is probably the reason for this. As for traction control I say the same thing. Even my form of firearm safety is keep your finger off the trigger or just have an empty chamber .

Several companies use a Borg Warner S300G (57/65/.70 A/R) over a Borg Warner S400 75mm compressor inducer with a 1.25 A/R turbine housing or the 1.10 A/R turbine housing if you don't plan on jumping over 60 PSI. The S300 with the 62mm compressor may work well also. Personally I would recommend the same S300G (57/65/.70) If I were you I would opt for the attenuator housing (race housing) it helps with smoothing out the airflow on the S475 and keeping that S475 from ringing your ears. I hope you have already set in some good head studs too.