dodgedieselnewbie

Thank you... how about the no pressure when key is turned on before starting.. normal as well?

I posted my concern regarding my FP gauge on the CF a week or two ago... thinking maybe my lift pump was the issue. KATOOM indicated that gauge may not be working correctly and suggested I contact ISSPRO. I posted in their sponsor's forum but no response. I just read another post regarding the FP gauge when the truck is turned off... whether it should or shouldn't drop to zero.. and the consensus is yes it should. I just checked mine and it does not drop when I shut down. Here's a video of a first start this morning. Shows the pressure at 16 from last night.. what happens when I turn the key (which was my intitial concern a couple weeks ago.. no build in pressure).. then I bump the starter to let the pump do its 25 second cycle.. then a turn on and start. I initially thought it was my lift pump because I don't hear it when I turn the key (I thought I used to) but it always fires up instantly... Do I need a new gauge? Sensor? How do i diagnose this?

Thanks. Does the suction cup ever break loose from windshield?

Waiting patiently <---- lol

I bought this truck specifically to tow my camper. I have been doing everything I can to make it a most enjoyable tow rig. I knew I wanted an exhaust brake when returning from a camping trip last fall... I made a wrong turn and had to go down a steep downhill road.. in first and foot on the brakes creeping at 5 mph... and was still nervous as all get out!

An exhaust brake is next on the "to do" list. Need to do some more research and some $$$

Awesome.. I have a line on a 2001 harness... just not sure if it'll work on my 99.

If I did find a harness and a switch... how would I incorporate a relay? Is there a spot for it in the fuse box next to the battery?

Along the same lines... On a 30-40 degree morning.. Is it okay to let it idle for 10 minutes to warm up? I ask because I thought I read somewhere that it's not good to let it idle for a long time... maybe that was after it's been running down the road for awhile and then let it idle while you run into a store?

Thank you!

I have read though most of this thread but not all.. Is this the only switch out there that has MPG fooler? Is there a MPG only switch? I had 6 cylinder enabled by a smarty and don't think I really need 3 cylinder. Am I correct that because I have a grid delete that I can just leave this in MPG mode all the time? If on a cold enough day... will the programmed 6 cylinder mode kick in while in MPG mode on this switch?

I will have to pay attention to shutting down.. I usually wait around 30 secs but never really looked at temp (EGTs?) Hmm.. so a programmer is the only way to do this.. like your quad or smarty?

How important is cool down before shutting down your truck? What is that number and the amount of time it takes? I think I heard there is a gadget you can buy where you turn off the key but the truck stays running for a couple minutes... ?

Excellent... Now I understand. Thanks a million!

I believe the correct connectors are on the light end of my current wiring. Just need the plug end for the connection under the radiator... I'll hit up a couple of junk yards

In what way tho? Does it change the numbers on the edge chart? Main Level Horse Power / Timing 1 40 2 60 3 80 4 100 5 120 Are the hp above numbers for an untapper pump or tapped? Sub Level Fuel Rate / Timing 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Same question for this chart.... mmhmm ;-)

Lol.. I'm guessing the previous owner checked for 12v.. I bought it this way. So how does the additional 600 ms change things? Does it increase hp or no? What will be the noticeable difference between an untapped and tapped?

One more question.. maybe 2 What does the wire tap do and what's the benefit? The best I could gather and not comprehend is it sends a pulse or something to the pump... I don't know. Is my calculation of ~400hp correct?

Okay... I went with 50s for a little more umph and to hopefully gain a mile or two per gallon. Had been getting 14-15 (which I think sux)... so we'll see what happens with these injectors. From what I've read.. I want to keep my boost as low as possible.. correct? I do keep it below 10 most of the time and below 5 a good bit.

Okay... that makes sense. So it was designed to take into consideration different size injectors and turbo.. Recommended setting is 4x4 or 5x5. Reason being is that most of you every day driving on city streets and highways you will never be able to keep the boost above 10 PSI. That means once the Edge falls in de-fuel mode you've lost you time advancement and any kind of fuel enhancement. The de-fuel mode is a de-fuel stock mode which you want to avoid. De-fuel mode was designed for people that have a large turbo and/or large injectors and it gives them a way to control smoke till the turbo spools up. Looking at the above statement... Is this aimed towards folks with stock or small injectors? Should I use 4/4 instead of 5/3 for driving around town?

It makes sense but looking at the chart... 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Under what circumstances would you need #1 versus #3 ?

Which mount do you have and where is it mounted?

Questions... I still don't understand the fueling part of the Edge and how/why you would use each setting. I just turn it down til it doesn't smoke much at all under a heavy acceleration. That setting was 5/4 before the injectors.. In the limited drive time I've had since installing the 50s.. it seemed 5/3 was good. Does this seem about right? Only one setting? Another thing.. I have what I guess you'd call a sock over my air filter. I'm pretty sure it is a little restrictive because when I put it on a couple months ago the turbo whistle quieted down a bit. Should I remove it? How will it effect things.. like boost? I've noticed that my boost is a little higher with the new injectors... even under light acceleration. If I take off the sock will it drop a little due to more air getting in there?

I have a plug there but no harness to go from there to the lights.. that's why I'm asking if that harness is year specific..

I decided to upgrade my injectors and while in there adjust the valves. Thanks moparman... for the write-ups! BIG help! Other than breaking the breather nipple.. everything went smoothly. Much easier than I anticipated. Only issue I really had... was getting a torque wrench on the back most fuel line nut.. so I just guestimated with a regular wrench. Also decided to do a grid delete and have my intake and valve cover powder coated. Throughout the whole process.. I was so nervous that when I finished it wasn't going to start or run as well as it did before I stuck my hands in there. Well... it took around 4 times cranking before I heard it turn over... music to my ears :-) It coughed just a couple times.. then smoothed out and was purring like a kitten. I installed the valve cover and intake a couple hours later and took it for a spin.. runs great. yay!! Thanks again for the info............. Pic of valve cover and intake BTW.. One of the connector tubes looked funky on one side... can someone tell me why or what the cause is/was? I wire brushed and reinstalled...