dodgedieselnewbie

Thanks for the info Mike... but... can what I'm asking be done? Do I need a harness and switch specific to my year truck?

Hi.. I have factory fog lights installed on my truck that didn't have em. I have them wired to a toggle. I'd like to have them wired to my headlight switch if it's not too complicated. It seems I have a connector under the radiator that I'm guessing would go to the fogs. Is this correct? And.. I would need the push/pull switch. If I got one... would it be plug and play? What's involved in swapping the switches.. do I need to dismantle the entire dash? Would I need a harness and switch specific to my year? I'm adding another set of fogs to the front and lights to the back and would like to keep toggle switches to a minimum. Thanks in advance...

I'd like a nice phone mount and somewhere to put it...

Too late for me.. lol. I used it to gain leverage. Everything else went smoothly tho :-) btw.. I used an oil filter wrench and rubber jar lid gripper after I broke it ;-)

Thank you bud! The white two wire plug on the radio is the steering control. I will need to find that harness and how it feeds to the CTM. I believe it should go to the green connector on the CTM

That'sThat's awesome. Can you see which which wire(s) go to the radio? It should be on the green connector and from what I've gathered.. Go into the #7 pin on plug. If not.. Appreciate what did.

My door says 65 front and 80 rear. I weighed my truck last week for the first time. 7200 pounds with me in it..

I think I need to deflate some.. I bought new tires almost 3ooo miles ago and they were filled to 80 psi. I had no idea they should be down to 40-45 psi? I'll read back through this tomorrow and try to do the math.. too tired now to compute :-) 40-45... really?

I do not have it figured out yet. I'm hoping to meet with someone in a week or so that has the parts... but whatever info you can provide would be MUCH appreciated. If it's not too much trouble.. I need to know where the wires from the back of the radio go into the CTM? Like.. what pin hole(s) it goes into? Any pics you can provide..... What CTM you have.. highline or premium? If I'm going to install a steering wheel with controls... they're going to be functional! :-) I hope!!!

Well.. I'm pretty sure I found my vibration. I think it may be related to the Haggar's post above.. about the bushing in the tail shaft of my rear transfer case. At least I hope it's only a bushing! I found it by accident. I was getting something out of the passenger side of the truck and I closed the door rather hard and I heard a rattle. Got the creeper and started banging on everything with the palm of my hand.. the nerf bars, exhaust, cross members.. nothing. I hit the tail piece of the transfer case and bam.. there it was rattling inside of it and it was carrying all the way through to the shift linkage. Do you think if it's rattling all the way to the shift linkage that it's more serious? I hope not. :-( Also... it doesn't take much force with the palm of my hand to make it rattle.

My GPS shows 4 mph off at all speeds with 285/70/17

Thanks.. the 2 pin plug was not sitting anywhere behind the stereo. I look under dash tomorrow to see if its tied up somewhere.

Yes.. there are multiple clocksprings.. no cruise, w/cruise, cruise w/o radio and cruise with radio. I was just wondering whether I may already have the correct one but not it's not connected.. or it doesn't work that way? And what else I need beside wiring to the radio.

Okay.. assuming I do.. hopefully someone else that may know.. will chime in. I need to know what wiring I need and how to find it. And whether or not I need a new clock spring. Thanks

Is it possible I have it? I mean I have most of the goodies... like the upgraded stereo and infinity speakers, power everything, cruise, driver seat, overhead display, alarm, etc. just missing heated seats and steering wheel controls.. I have a build sheet.. would it be indicated on there?

Okay.. I checked out the factory stereo and it has steering wheel control plug on the back of it. Based on this.. I'm assuming that I can do this.. but not sure what exactly I need. Wiring from radio to.. CTM? Or to steering wheel? Will I definitely need a new clock spring? Any help would be appreciated! BTW.. I reinstalled the factory stereo as the aftermarket Kenwood was driving me nuts! I love the factory unit!!!

Hi! I purchased a used replacement steering wheel from ebay. To my surprise when I opened it.. it has radio controls. My current wheel doesn't. I've researched a little bit but haven't found anything actually showing a conversion. Can it be done? I read that a new clock spring is needed? That I need to check under dash panel to see what type of CTM the harness is plugged into.. etc. And that I need an Infinity head unit. My truck has an aftermarket head unit but I have the factory unit out in the garage want to put it back in.. not sure if it's Infinity though. Is it more trouble than it's worth? If so... can I use this steering wheel anyway without going through the conversion? Would it be plug and play minus the radio controls? Would I still need to change the clock spring? Thanks in advance............

Well.. The shop called me regarding the drive shaft. The the needle bearings in the ball joint were shot and the flanges were boogered up where it sits. He wanted $310 for the 2 new ends and 2 u joints. I figured I'd search for a replacement with mine being a little rusty. I found this $260: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251409240822?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Does this seem fair? Seems to be quality and seems to have a good reputation...

You seem to have more space in there than I do.. Did you do away with the factory filter? I'm guessing I can do away with mine having the Fass 150? Is it difficult?

Well.. I took it as far as I felt comfy with. I took it to my local tranny guy. He said the cardan joint is definitely mess up and there is a possibility it could have damaged the inside of the flanges . He is going to take it apart early next week to inspect. Hope I don't need new flanges.. He said $150-170 apiece. I am a little disappointed.. would like to have taken it further but it was out of my comfort zone. Part of the sleeve inside was missing and there were cracks all the way around it. Also.. it is not the root of my vibration. It only accentuated it a little. Oh well... Thanks very much for your help!

Update: Here it is... OUT I don't really see an issue with the u-joints. The young man I bought it from said he replaced... with spicer. I do how ever feel there's a problem with the joint (is it a cv joint?) between the two u-joints. I think that's where the play is and it binds pretty badly. That's okay Hag... I appreciate it and if I ever have to remove the rear.. I can look here :-) Thanks a million!!! PS.. Everything looks sealed at the transfer case and front diff... I can just get it and drive.. right?

I appreciate the info but how did you get to the bolts on the rear of the shaft out? My cross member is in the way. What did you use? A socket won't fit and a wrench is too big. The only thing I thought of (mentioned above) is pivoting head ratchet wrench. Even with that I would need to rotate the driveshaft to one location for each bolt that has any room to move a wrench. Or maybe a really short 5/8 wrench Okay.. Found a shorty 5/8 wrench I forgot I had! A little success.. Cracked one bolt loose! A pain in the *** to come out from under truck disengage 4wd .. climb back under rotate shaft.. engage 4wd again.. etc etc etc :-) Play by play.. Lol. 3 bolts cracked.. One more.. Whew. I learned I can disengage 4wd from underneath. Re-engaging won't happen for me under there. This ain't easy for an old guy with back issue! Okay.. Back under.. Okay.. carrier bearing? Is there one on a front driveshaft? I guess I saved the best for last.. the 4th bolt came loose easily. Before I proceed.. want to make sure.... I have two bolts loosely holding back in place still. Can I remove the front bolts or I need to brake the rear loose first? Do I need bungie cords? Can the back of the shaft rest on the cross member? I marked the front and back with paint.. Why do the front u-joint not have retaining clip? My shorty wrench did the trick.. it was not easy to get leverage on it and quickly learned I needed a rag to pad my hand. ;-) I think I noticed one of the clips not seated properly on rear joint.. there was no separation between the two ends.. probably the problem.

Good to know.. Thank you!

Okay.. This looks like I have to remove cross member to get the bolts out of the rear of the driveshaft :-( which means I need to support the tranny.. Right?) Which means I cannot drive the truck if i get in a bind.. Unless I put the cross member back in :-( The only thing that might save me is a ratcheting wrench with a pivoting head???