jlwelding

Sorry I must have missed them, I like the first one.Well instead of pulling the rockers and all I thought I would adjust valvues again, so I set intake at 8 and ex at 18 and made it miss a little more. Everybody remember it runs perfect when cold, so it is telling us something is fishey.So I have something going on there, in the morning I am going to set in at 12 and ex at 22 and see what happen's.

Well crossover tubes didnt do anything, fuel system is new from drawstraw to head, speaking of head I will be pulling rockers and inspect all I can from there. Got to be lossing compression or something, only problem is it dont miss when cold so leak down test may not so anything. Compression test is what I need but cant find one anywhere.

I wanted to push it off one of Mikes hills and he said they frown on those kinda things. Can you amagine video that. Then I thought I would hide some c-4 in it somewhere and charge 50.00 a shot and the winner could keep the truck. But that might not work out either.I will make a list one day of all the new parts it's goten out of hand, but it will make for a good parts truck if nothing else.

Ok for those following my love of my truck.lmaoOk I put the new used wire harness on today and, nothing, nada, still has erratic miss. Reminder that it runs perfect when eng. is cold, so as the eng. heats up the miss starts.Here is the list of new parts that apply to fuel.New vulcan draw strawNew DDP 50 HP injectorsNew filters Airdog 100 17 psi at idle WOT 15 psi New Blue Chip vp44New over flow valvueBlew out return line from vp back to tankIt will have new crossover tubes in the morning with new o rings, then the inj. lines will be the only thing left stock.When you crack lines you cant tell anythingThis weekend I will pressure up the cylinders and see if I have burnt valvues. I cant find compression test gauge. So I guess this will at least tell me if I am losing air either intake or exhaust.It passed the blow by test with only 4 11/16 rise from eng. off to 2800 rpmIf you can come up with anything please post.Just dont ask what else has been replaced, it's all new now but the ait.

Heat it to about 250.

Ok here it is @ 2200 2 3/4 inch rise 2500 NO CHANGE I thought that was strange 2800 4 11/16 Originally Posted by JOHNFAK Where do you hook up the mechnical gauge to measure oil pressure Also ...... how much blowblack when the engine is hot ? I have almost none when cold ........... but once warm ...... can definately see it from the 'crankcase modification' running to bottom via pvc pipe - but how much is normal ?On mine there is a 1/8" NPT plug on the top of the oil filter mount, probably be the easier place to do a test gauge. As for how much blow-by, this was on a thread a while back: You need a blowby tool. The Cummins blowby orifice tool is simply a tee with one .221" (15/64-in) outlet. Connect one end of the tee to the end of the blowby tube. Put a manometer on last tee outlet. That is your blowby tool. They sell them at the Cummins, but I have made my own plenty of times, less than $10. A simple manometer can be made by looping into a 'U' 6 feet of clear tubing with water in it half way. Measure how high the water level rises with a tape measure, multiply it by 2, convert it to LPMs. Rough conversion is 1"= 27 lpm, add 3 lpm for each one inch (1/2'' of rise in the tube) of water The reason for multiplying by 2 is that inches of water equals the water rise in the open end of the tube plus the inches the water is pushed down on the engine side of the water tube. For simplicity my numbers below are the measurement of rise only. Cummins new 5.9 engine numbers are: 63 liters per minute(2.5" water rise) @ 2200rpm, 76 L/Min (3.5" rise) @ 2500rpm 85 L/Min (4.5" rise) @ 2800rpm. Worn engine that needs rebuilding are roughly double i.e. 126 L/Min(10.5"rise) @ 2200rpm 152 L/Min(14.5"rise) @ 2500rpm 170 L/Min(17"rise) @ 2800 rpm Beside indicating a compression problem the valves could also be out of adjustment. Another way (mine), same idea, is to block the blowby tube with a 1/2'' pipe nipple with a cap that has a 15/64 hole drilled in it. Use 3/8'' id looped clear tubing with water in it slipped over the oil dipstick tube. Other tubing end remains open. Use a sharp tipped felt marker to mark the water level with the engine off, have a helper start an already warmed up engine and run the rpms up to 2.2, 2.5 & 2.8k rpms. Mark each water level with the pen, measure the distance from engine off mark then multiply each by 2. This is all very simple to do, just hard to explain with words. --- Update to the previous post... Ok here it is @ 2200 2 3/4 inch rise 2500 NO CHANGE I thought that was strange 2800 4 11/16 Ok this is what I came up with. So blow by test just shows that the rings are good and what else? What about cam lobe going flat? I have a oil test sample kit coming in soon this should tell me if the cam lobe is going flat if there is high metal content. The reasone I am testing oil is there is a loud tick when eng. is cold, I looked for exhaust leaks and cant find anything. It got to be in the head. Valvues been adj. 5 times so you would think I would have got it right by then, 8 intake 18 exhaust. The thing I thought about the click is exhaust leak, cant find so replace all gaskets? You would think there would be black soot somewhere. Putting on wire harness this morning, wish me luck.

Ok I will do this tomorrow, right off the front of the eng. seems the easiest, it should make the U shape. Thanks for the infoOne other thing, do I need to reduce the hose size to 3/8 or can I just use the same size hose as what comes off the breather?

Sorry guys I just got back in town. Let me see if I got this right, I just need a tee in the breather hose with a cap then drill hole in cap to .221 then fill hose and meassure from line marked with eng. off and just do the rpm examples you gave. Times that by two and that will tell me weather it is crap or not, right?

I rember those days.

Anybody know how many hours are charged for compression test. I am thinking if it to high might buy my own gauge and do it my self, course I have no idea what one even looks like.

It is quiet possible that the bearings in fan pulley went then started cracking the fan blades.

Yes, reflashed old ecm there and new ecm, it was lined with sparkles of gold for 1400.00

Topic: ecm outlet scam !!! (6 messages, Page 1 of 1) Moderators: Gordon, High Desert Intruder danedog Gender: Posts: 13 Joined: Apr 2008 From: Sanford, NC Bike: S83 gotta love chicks in chaps and thongs Posted: Nov 16, 2009 09:59 PM (Msg. 1 of 6) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- buyer beware...this has nothing to do with bikes but most of us still own cars or trucks and if you ever have a computer or ecm problem check this out... Re: buyer beware emc outlet This guy is back in business but has relocated to Hazel Park, Michigan. He still is using the web site www.ecmoutlet.com. It is a really elaborate and convincing web site to lure you in so he can take your money and not deliver the goods. On his site he claims to have trained professionals that will repair or replace your faulty ecm at less than the dealer would charge, with a warranty. After you send your ecm to him and money order if you try to contact him at his company phone # ( which shows an operator on his web site) you get a recording from a D and L auto parts store, which there is not one in Hazel Park. One phone # he has on his web site to contact him (ECM Outlet) is a human resource dept.somewhere else. This guy is Dumb because he actually tells you his real name and gives you his actual mailing address where he lives with his girlfriend in a house...not a business. This is what I got from the Hazel Park Police. I found this after this guy Jeff ECM Outlet ripped me off 555.00 He is scamming folks all over the US.

You could loose a baseball if you put it on my dash.lol

Man I wish, I dont know how it would work. But it sound's good. And there might even be such a thing.

Go to You Tube and type in JL Welding truck and if this is what your truck is doing all I can say is wellcome to my world. I have done the test this test that dont throw your money away and all the such. Ask Mike what he thinks about it.I have spent 4k trying to track it down and I dont wont to hear have you checked your grounds? The bolts are worn out from cleaning. What I can tell you is everything that touches the outside of the eng. is brand new at least one time some two and three times. I am trying a used wiring harness in a few days when it gets here. If that dont fix it nothing will. I am even willing to make a bet with anyone here that dont fix it either.I have had so many people look at this truck when they see me coming they hide. When you call, you get answer machine.What I would like to do is do like the computer hunting thing they had a few years ago where you shot from your computer, only have my truck on there with a pay out if you hit the right spot the truck blows to H and back. Now that would be cool. Can you amagin how many people would watch that. Oh and use a 50 cal lolIf anybody out there would like to do this I will donate my truck.lmao

Now that I think about it, the line has a connector right at the tee. I suppose I could unplug it right there and put a hose on it. Now the question is how much is it suppose to return?

No starting problem, surging problem and slite miss. The only thing that has not been replaced is mapp and ait sensor, water temp sensor. I was thinking if return is slite stopped up it my cause it. Just trying anything.

I just welded one for shop in Austin and charged 40.00. Dont let the welders get to ya, it can be done for 40

Welcome to my world. 1year and 2 months worth and 4k later still surging.

Dodge is 265.00 Aline auto parts 198.00 used at pops parts 5.00 lmao - I pulled it out and checked it and didnt see anything. So I put used one in and cleaned it real good drove 10 mile and check in the morning.

Ok folks I need to know if I take the banjo fitting ( return line ) off at the vp and blow air thru it to make sure it's not stopped up , will it hurt anything like crossover tube orings. I just wont to make sure the return to the tank is open. Also will it hurt vp?

I have oil all around the sending unit, I guess thats where it's coming from. Is this a Dodge item or can I get this from auto parts?

I replaced the vp plug today thinking maybe, then I started it and oh well no such luck. So If anybody knows where I can get a wiring harness CHEAP because I anit spending nothing else on this heap of ----. Oh and vp plugs real cheap 147.00 for 9 pieces of wire a plug and some heat shrink, what a deal.

Amsoil semi synthetic 15-40 with Amsoil filter every 8k.