crf450ish

The other day my TC started unlocking and locking. Dirty AC noise...... @Dynamic suggested a quick n dirty way to detect if the the alternator is at fault and it was. I unplugged it and drove the truck. Problem solved. Now here’s the good part..... I had to argue with the retards behind the counter at autozone who think they know more than me about why my TC was doing what it did. Their silly test machine doesn’t detect the issue that causes the dirty AC noise. In the end I got it swapped out. I’m saving up for one those nice expensive alternators. Hopefully that’ll cure the issue for good! I also cleaned the **** out of my battery terminals

Jeez! Lol I didn’t know that was there. I need to spend some time and actually go through your articles and bookmark the ones I need to read up on. Thank you!

Well that explains the tad bit of shininess I seen when the front end was suspended. I do feel a little clunking every now and again coming from the front end and up thru the steering column. I just was to stay ontop of each and every little issue that pops up so my truck stays in mint operating condition all the time. It’s always the little things to me that make the biggest difference. On another note.... I CANNOT find anyone to change out my U joints on my front driveshaft. All the places I’ve called and shops I’ve stopped in say they won’t touch the double cardan portion. What the heck? I would do it myself however I do not feel comfortable fooling around with the double cardan portion. Can anyone offer an opinion as to why a freekin shop (that I’ve dealt with before and like) won’t touch it? Liability?!?!?

Looks like my ball joints are on there way out. After jacking up the front end and placing it on jack stands and inspecting the steering for wear and loose parts, I discovered the ball joints are worn which I expected @ 145K Miles. Now I’ve heard greT things about those Carli ball joints but cannot justify the price. Anything better than OEM spicer ball joints? Moog? I had good luck with moog ball joints on the Dana 44 in my wrangler years ago. What are your guys’ opinions?

Spicer 5-213X is the part # for my front driveshaft U joints. 1330 series.

So what’s the consensus here? Are they 1350? And i always use greasable joints. I think non geeasable joints are the stupidest thing in the world. Might as well not grease your tie rod ends and ball joints for that matter..... LOL! I took the driveline off and am going to order the u joints and centering yoke and drop it all off at a driveline shop here in fife, wa in western wa. I’m over here for work anyways. I don’t work on U joints. Tried to one time and ended up having to buy a new driveline, back in my jeeping days. So I leave the U Joint replacements to the experienced dudes who’ve done it a time or 20

Does anyone know the OEM spicer part #s for the front driveline U joints including the double cardan joints and centering yoke (might as well replace it)? Heard and felt a sight vibration coming from what felt like the front end. It was the U joints in the double cardan portion of my front driveline..... there toast. Took the driveline out yesterday. Should be interesting to see if I get a tad better mpg

I’m not sure if you’ve said it before or been asked yet but why don’t buy a beater 4 cylinder Japanese car or something exclusively for commuting her to dialysis? I mean for real it would pay for itself in fuel savings within a couple of months. I travel all over the country for work and I leave my truck parked in my shop. Much more economical and no need to put miles on a pickup not towing anything imho.....

I just don’t understand why it doesn’t work the way it’s supoosed to. All I want to do is try a tune out on the standard tune repository but I can’t because of some unknown problem. I’m a welder, not a computer programmer so I really don’t understand what’s going on.

I’m sorry but this is way too complicated. I’ve tried and failed several times to download the files. Can’t we just go back to posting our tunes here like we used to until quadzilla has a streamlined way of importing and downloading tunes figured out.

Now this can’t be correct. I’m doing between 70-75mph on a flat (yes, flat) straight highway, 20* timing, 30% engine load, mpg switch @ 143*...... My guess is an actual 23 mpg Edit: I reset it three times. Went back to this each time haha

Yeah mine won’t be turning any higher than 3K rpm. Sheet, I don’t even hit 2500 rpm very often. I’m 30 going on 80 behind the wheel. Just want a fluidamper for peace of mind. I’ve noticed a tad bit of vibration at idle. Looked at stock harmonic balancer and the rubber is checked. Time for a fluidamper

Nooo! Lol. My truck has seen 3000 rpm one time since I’ve owned it. ARP all the way man!

Dude you can rent a smarty from DAP in Utah. By snail mail. They place a hold on your card for the cost of a smarty ($600) and once they get it back safe & sound thy refund you the $540. Yes, it costs $60 to rent. Oh well. It works and hey, you get to play with a smarty for a bit. Just don’t stack it with anything. At all!

I’m interested to see which one reads higher during high idle, if you’ve got it enabled.

According to what I’ve read on here & cumminsforum..... certain engine parts, like gaskets and pumps and other vital parts, no matter how unimportant they may seem, always go OEM Cummins. Sure, batteries, belts, bearings, brakes, fluids and other common maintenance items are ok to go aftermarket with. But sticking with original equipment parts on vital things is the common consensus.

Thanks dude. So what’s the benefit of this? Peace of mind that the damper won’t spin?

@jlbayes would you mind explaining to me what the pin kit is for? All I can find Ian the dampener with & without the pin kit. Thanks.

Is there any drilling or otherwise material modifications required to install a fluiddampr? I have a chance to pick up one for 1/2 price of new (and this one is brand new in a dudes garage on his shelf). Just wondering who here has actually installed one themselves. Thx

Thank you very much! Dude I just bought one of these and put it on (been putting it off for a long time). Fuel pressure steadily @ 17 psi!!! Thanks a million.

Hey guys maybe this is been addressed already I just can’t seem to find the thread but I’m pretty sure I need to change my power steering fluid but seeing as I work five days a week 10 hours a day and am fairly busy on the weekends I was wondering if I could just evacuate the fluid in the power steering reservoir refill and drive for a few days Wash rinse repeat until fluid is clean No matter how many times it takes. I vaguely remember @Mopar1973Man Saying something somewhere about that.

I can’t get my money back. It’s way past the time frame for that. I’m considering going myself fortunate to be getting a warranty replacement. If I have trouble again, I’ll go a different route. Also, I’m not trying to do a DIY headlight conversion. I’m not good with cosmetic crap like that. I’d rather just buy a set already done for a decent price. But thanks for the H1 advice. You got a link so I can actually see and understand what your talking about?

I’m not actually paying for a new set. Originally I paid like $160 or so for them. The $222 is the MSRP that ANZO has to to place a “hold” on my card. Trust me, I’m not paying for a new set.

I finally got out of my own head about the high idle EGT thing and have just been using it and truck has been warming up fast and fine. ? sometimes I just go into full retard mode and not think. @Mopar1973Man @Me78569 Thanks for your help on this issue! ??

@Me78569 thank you.