moostang

The gator back is now continental. It seems like it will be good and quite. About $25 from Amazon

Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can find one locally

I just had the same problem. My belt was squeaking and found the tensioner going out so I replaced it. That made the belt sound even worse. The belt (gates) is about 5 years old and looks fine but I put my old cracked one I keep for emergencies on and its perfectly quiet.

Well I ended up with a water pump leak so I replaced the pump, timing belt, tensioner, balancer, oil pan gasket, engine mount, spark plugs, and distributor O-ring ( all from rock auto). I still can't get the base timing right on. It's still a few degrees off. It does run better, the plugs were worn pretty good. Could there be an issue with the distributor?

I had to replace both

Thanks for the info. I will try that and see. The timing belt was changed before I got it, could it be a tooth off and not cause any other problems?

I was checking to see why my block heater stopped working and found that the plug had burned off. It looks like it got moisture in it and corroded and caused it to arc. Something you may want to check once and a while. If it was kept clean it would probably still work. Picking up a new one from Napa today.

I was able to check the timing but couldn't get it set where it should be. It's still a few degrees off. Is it possible the balancer is bad and turned a little? I know that is possible on some balancers but not sure if it can on these

Also was wondering if I need to weld any, should I unhook the batteries or anything else?

I'm going to do some rust repair on the bottom of my doors and I'm just going to use rattle cans to paint. Does anyone know of a good paint that will match fairly close? It doesn't have to match perfect, I'll just paint up to the trim.

That Anderson adapter looks pretty nice. I have a goose neck already and don't want my bed taken up with a big 5th wheel hitch. It can be easily removed and isn't any more expensive than a cheaper 5th wheel. We may eventually get a 5th wheel RV and I think I may go with this.

I bet if I drained the gas out and filled it with diesel the spark knock would go away xmtysonxm, that's how I tried to check the timing, but nothing happened at first. After I moved the wires around, the check engine light came on and the ABS light started flashing and I wasn't sure if that was normal. I will retry it this weekend, thanks

My daughters civic started pinging under acceleration. No codes but I changed the knock sensor and it improved but didn't stop it completely. I tried to check the base timing but you need to turn off the computer control of the timing by using a jumper wire. When I put the jumper in it doesn't change the timing so I'm not sure how to check it. Any ideas or is there a good Honda forum to check? Thanks

I asked that question when I first got into diesel and found this forum. The old timers I know used to use trans fluid in their gas every now and then to help lube and clean. With what I've learned here it makes a lot more sense to use 2 cycle in our trucks.

I got my kit from BAE. It seemed to be good quality and is still working fine.

Looks like the Mobil Delvac is available through Walmart for $70 a gallon. I'll have to see if they carry it locally.

You could go with 5 inch with a resonator. I was going to do that but my exhaust system needed repairs so I just replaced everything.

How do you charge the RV batteries from the truck? Do you have to wire it specifically to do that or is it already set up?

I put the 4 inch diamond eye on last year and I really like it. I had stock down pipe adapted to 5 inch straight pipe and the drone was to much on trips with the camper. The sound is still nice but much quieter in the cab. Also noticed a slight decrease in EGT with the bigger down pipe.

What is a boat tank vent? I am having trouble with either pressure or vacuum.

I got the one from Oriely a few years ago and seems to be good quality. It rarely goes over 195-200 degrees in the summer with the AC on. My passenger side tank cracked. I also replaced my radiator cap with a 10 pound one. I don't tow at high elevation so it shouldn't boil over. I do carry a stock cap just in case I take a trip to the mountains.

My fuel sending unit lines are rusting and starting to leak. Does anyone know a fix for this? I found a company, Tri-Starr, that makes just the steel replacement lines for $159. Looks to be good quality. Should I replace the whole unit or just the lines? http://tristarrradiator.com/dodge%20ram%20diesel%20page/dodge%20ram%20diesel%20page.html

Mine had a little play in the shaft but not alot. I noticed an oil film on the intake side (not much). When I took it apart I could tell it was leaking oil into the exhaust side a little. With the rebuild it actually sounds like it did when I first bought it and spools better. Even though it was just a little out of tollerance it made a big differance.

Sorry it's been awhile but its back together and running great. A few things you may need when rebuilding your turbo. A good in lb torque wrench, and small long snap ring pliers. I would also get the gasket for the rear cover, the one that covers the waste gate, the kit doesn't come with one. Mine was worn but I reused it. The only hard part was getting the exhaust housing apart. I would try carb dip or acitone to clean, mineral spirits didn't work that well. Also my snap ring pliers were to short to reach the one snap ring so I had to fight with it a little. The Holset manual was pretty good.

I have mine apart and soaking now. The manual from Holset is pretty good. Hopefully put it back together tonight