moostang

Is there a write up on how to rebuild turbos on this site? BAE has the manual available but it covers several different models and is a little confusing to follow.

Just ordered this kit. Looks to be good quality

Mine did the same thing. Just enough to form a drop on the bottom of the bell housing. It wasn't bad to repair, if you have a cherry picker. It's heavy. I found that my head was cracked when I took it to the machine shop. The cracks didn't have anything to do with the leak, it was in the exhaust seats. It would be a good time to put head studs in. I did studs and injectors while I had it apart.

Is it OK to reuse the turbo to manifold gasket?

Has anyone tried a brass compression fitting or are the lines not a standard size

I replaced mine a while back and used the factory rubber seals. I couldn't believe how much they were but I was in a hurry so I used them. It looked to me like a standard compression fittings would work if you can take it off and match the size. That's what I would have done. Maybe someone has already tried this and will chime in.

Quallity parts at a good price. Got my RV275's and ARP studs there

Thanks everyone for your input. Thats what I thought its probably not as good quality. You get what you pay for. I'll go with Holset parts.

Has anyone heard of Rotomaster turbo rebuild kits. Rock Auto sells them for about $35. Thinking of trying one mine is starting to get a little oil past the seals.

Ok I'll try that. Is there a place that is recomended to get the rebuild kit or do most parts stores carry them? Thanks

I haven't noticed any foam but I'll try that. How would I check the power valve or is it easily replaced?

My steering pulses while turning. It stops when the steering wheel stops turning and it doesn't matter what position the wheels or steering wheel are in. Also there is no whineing or noise from the pump. Any ideas?

I work on Hummers for the military and they have a very similar steering system. To properly bleed them you raise the front end, fill the pump, and without starting the engine, turn it lock to lock. That way the pump doesnt cause it to foam. Once you get foam you almost have to drain and refill to get it out. Turning the gearbox will force the fluid through the system.

I had the same problem with cracks in the exhaust seats. I found a machine shop that could get a complete head from Cummins for just a little more than a rebuilt one. It had a lot of metal shavings in it from machine work so make sure you clean it well what ever you get.

Anyone try to use Tapatalk? I couldn't find this forum on there.

What is consided "old"?

When my bearings went bad I had very little warning, just a squeek every now and then. They were so bad I could hardly turn the tire with it jacked up. I got everything from Rockauto, Timkin bearings new ball joints, u joints. It was a fairly big job. The bearings were easier than the ball joints. There are some good threads here to help.

Are there any disadvantages to having your ECM reflashed from the dealer? I don't have high idle.

Is there any chance of damage from the dealer flashing? I don't have high idle.

With the RV275's it made a nice differance almost like having 2 more settings on the Edge.

I found the wiring and the spot for the one fog light relay under the hood, but where is the other relay?

Where on this site do I find wiring schematics?

I am going to put fog lights on my truck and was wondering if it was a factory option, would there be wiring arlready there in the harness?

The original airdog filters were what was on it. Do I have to bleed it? I bumped the starter several times and got good fuel pressure and it started and drives fine.

I just replaced my airdog filters with a Donaldson P551315, and a Baldwin BF 1275 and my fuel pressure is a little lower now. Is this because they filter finer or they don't flow as much? Its still 18 psi at idle but drops to 15 psi at WOT. It was 18-19 at idle and didn't drop much past 17