smokeythedodge

Get a head off a motor that is 245HP. They have better valve seats than the auto and 5 speed 235HP motor heads.

Yeah a little bit, I am going to do some more digging today. I might have to go with something like the nv4500 because of availability and my duramax truck is acting up again, which is my only other transportation aside from this dodge. So I think I need to get it back on the road asap. I talked to a guy at blumenthals for about half an hour on the phone and we came up with probably going with the nv4500.. He says that is a very heavy duty transmission believe it or not compared to the nv5600 that I had... What I don't know is will my driveshaft go into the back of the nv4500 and not have to modified?? Maybe someone with a long wheelbase 2 wheel drive 01 model could do me a huge favor and measure their 2 piece driveshaft and count the splines on the tranny yoke end....? Just would like to bolt the nv4500 up in there if it would be easy and get this thing back on the road... If not, and I have to modify my driveshaft, then I will be going with any 5 or 6 speed eaton I can get my hands on that is synchronized and has an sae 2 bellhousing. NOT picky at all hahaha.

for the life of me i cant find a 5 or 6 speed eaton tranny in oklahoma. waiting on gaskets for the motor.......

Yeah it is just crazy how sensitive that new stuff is... Had to put new injectors in my 2005 duramax because of water.. that was an ordeal. here is what it looked like when it broke.... haha i made this video when i was diagnosing it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKtb5LhrAkg but yeah that cost me 5 grand to fix........new heads, gaskets and injectors and a piston. Ran ok in that video, then a couple days later it fell all to hell. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FP8oJCIliU&NR=1 I can fix my old 01 like 5 or 6 times for that much.

Wow. My buddy has a 2009 model one ton, just over the 100k mark, and unfortunately got a bad tank of fuel. Had all 6 injectors tested and they are seized up. Get a load of this..... They want 1500 PER ONE injector at dodge!!! Over $9,000 for 6 injectors!! 1/4th the cost of the whole truck. What a joke! I am going to say this now, if parts are getting this high for diesels, then I don't see how they are going to last much longer in america. So just a word of warning for anybody with a 6.7, watch out for bad fuel!

No reason really, other than I already had to pull the tranny and clutch and it only takes a couple hours to pull the motor on one of these. Mainly going to do gaskets, every single one is leaky on this motor.... Cool, thanks for the advice! Yup ol number 6 is thrust, it looked brand new even with all the city driving i have done with this truck. Im waiting on a new camera, I had it setting on the cowl of the pickup this evening, planned on taking some more pictures but I dropped it on the concrete. It was a cheapy though, been wanting a new one anyway so tomorrow I'll go buy a new one and get some more progress. Tuesday my gaskets will be in. Got the pumps off and everything else this evening, oil cooler, alternator. I'll pull the cam tomorrow maybe and get the gear housing off, the gasket behind it is just like a sieve. I can't wait to see if my gear housing has the stepped hole to keep the dowel in the block, if not I will tab it and locktite all the bolts.

Too many variables.... That is just to diagnose ring condition of all 6 as a whole. If you have a cracked exhaust valve seat or burn exhaust valve it aint gonna be leaking into the crankcase, it will be going out your exhaust. Just my opinion though.... at the shop i work at part time we do way more indv. hole comp tests than basing our decision on a quick manometer reading on big truck engines. jmho.

Genius. Ok so we'll leave that on there then! So now I guess I will need to find a round banjo fitting that goes around the overflow valve x 3/8" male barb so i can slide some 3/8 hose on it. Don't think lowes has it.

Gotcha, usually what I end up doing, but thought it would be easier to ask first haha. I'll post up when I figure it all out for future reference. Maybe it will cool things down by increasing the amount of fuel that can return I have no idea. That check ball in that banjo bolt thing seems like it would be restrictive. Yall think the truck would run if I got rid of that overflow valve and went with a flow through fitting? I got a FASS system on the truck so it would probably flow enough.

Primo information!

Did you check compression yet? Always my first step in diagnosing a mechanical problem! Here is what I use! http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=68606&group_ID=1430 and this http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/mt33c.asp I have it loaned out to a buddy of mine right now, or I would get a video of how to use it. I really like this snap on adaptor compared to the mityvac one i used to have, much much higher quality.

I'll do that! Decided to go with some Duplicolor Engine Enamel, in bright red. Got another question for you all...... I am not real familiar with different metric fitting sizes.... So here is my query. Put forth visually!

Well.... Had to write a bunch of briefs for Legal Writing and had about 3 days worth of cases to catch up on for Civil Procedure (first semester of law school, and it is brutally hard so far, just fyi) So.... I didn't get to do much else on the truck project after this morning.............Will definitely be replacing all the gaskets: front and rear main, gear housing gasket (have to pull cam) head gasket, gasket behind fuel pump block off bracket thing, vacuum pump, and intake runner plate gasket, and cam cover (tappet cover) rubber gasket, oil cooler, a/c bracket o-ring, dipstick o-ring.Lets hear some thoughts on paint prep for this engine!!!!I want an extremely high quality looking paint job on this motor... I hink what I will do is go over it again with my hot water pressure washer (5,000 psi) after I have the vp44 off and everything else..... Then start sanding!! Or should I???? This paint comes in a spray can, and says Cummins on it I think it is for touching up engines that came from Cummins in the traditional Apex Cummins Red color. Not sure how well it will do as far as being the primary paint covering. I want to hear what you all have to say about paint choices and prep for this motor!! I am only 21, still wet behind the ears, so I will definitely heed any advice from this diverse group!

Will do! It's nasty isn't it! Yeah I have got a beastly pressure washer, so we'll see how it works on this stuff later on today! --- Update to the previous post... Here are some more.... Might be good for reference, helping give people a visual of what they need to check/replace so forth.......

Fruits of this morning's labor.... Anybody have any picture requests? Some part of the engine that you can't see in the truck maybe? Anyway....

Have to pull it off the motor and get it magnafluxed at a machine shop is about the only way I know of, aside from a visual check... You might have a cracked valve seat also. --- Update to the previous post... http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=N7_EsVHTadM&feature=related

I went ahead and vented to the atmosphere. Not really worried about it.What about the quick disconnect fittings?? I guess that is what they are... Anybody know what tool I need to disconnect them? little round looking things. One by the big round dryer thing by the firewall and one by the condenser.

Probably not very intersting, but maybe it could help someone out. Hell I like cummins engines, I would probably kill some time looking at pictures of a guy tearing one apart, figure somebody else might. Reason for pulling it... NVG 5600 tranny went out the other day, so I decided to just go ahead and pull and freshen this motor up, dry compression is pretty high so I will probably not be doing anything as far as honing or new rings. Might, might not. Haven't decided yet. I WILL be replacing the rod and main bearings, all gaskets including front and rear main and head, and will be cleaning and painting it up with cummins apex red engine paint, part number #3885910 just for the hell of it, will also be installing a Medium duty truck transmission of some sort!!! Don't know how much time I will have to mess with it, only had 4 hours in it today, so here is the process as of day 1. as you can see it is a greasy, oily pig sty. Got some corrosion and rust starting, so I will taking care of that.

Cool. I already have the tranny out so all I am going to do is just pull the oil pan so I can come straight out the front of the truck with it. Works like a charm!

No they are sealed in a potted plastic tray and connected to the vp44's inner workings with wires/plugs. You would need to get a machined cap with a groove for an o ring so the fuel wouldn't just pour out, and then run the wires to the cab. This was on an older vp44 i had, don't have one currently to test that with, the one i have right now is under warranty or else I would gladly try to relocate the electronics to the cab.

Just aluminum, with a few little ridges, not much of a heatsink like you would see on a CPU in a computer or something its just a potted circuit board like you see in the pic sitting in a plastic tray, directly over the aluminum that contacts the fuel. Nothing real remarkable as far as cooling capability imo.

Thats a good buy! Well I went to a heavy duty truck junkyard by my house, they wanted 4500 for a FSO 8406 used... 3800 for a 6406 FSO Only had a couple...

Seems like the FSO 8406A is an expensive beast! I read elsewhere that it is possible to convert an FS XXXX to an Overdrive somehow, and also possible to convert an FO to an FSO. Do you have any information on this? I can get my hands on an older FS or FO transmission cheaper than I can get a FSO 6406 or 8406.... Thanks for the info!!!

Yup, that is what it is.