smokeythedodge

OK cool I will change both front ones. Is that pretty much the most common reason both brake lights stay lit? Would that have anything to do with the yellow cruise light on my odometer staying lit constantly and the cruise and switches not working?

im trying to run down my cruise control/ abs brake light problem and I am thinking it is a speed sensor up front. What scanner is cheapest and will check their functionality?

time wise and money in parts, it would be way cheaper to sell yours and get you one with a stick.

Not cheap at the dealer that is for sure.... Close to 1,000 dollars for the engine wire harness. I would check ebay

Awesome that site is a treasure trove!!!

Looking for some connectors like the ones used on the cummins motors in dodge trucks, appear to be waterproof. Look like good quality. I was looking for some to use to quickly unhook and reconnect things like a 12v fuel pump for my aux diesel tank. --- Update to the previous post... appear to be made by Deutsch, but I can't find a retail outlet

That would be!

Just like the title says, I have been paying special attention to my air filter setup, and have noticed that even a brand spanking new mopar air box will let dust into the motor. It just wont seal adequately. I will not use a k&n filter or the like, stock style paper is the best imho or a bhaf. I love the new air filter design for the 03-07 trucks, it has pleats that are about 6 inches tall!!! BEEFY!!! And it seems like the newer air box seals better. SO... Because I don't have a 3rd gen box to measure, does anybody know if the stock air intake tube will fit over it? I will figure out how to bolt it down to the inner fender. Also, anybody able to find any on ebay? I looked and couldn't find any!!! Weird!

rosmella 15w40 between 5-10 thousand miles, somewhere along those lines.

AWESOME stove man, looks like it is plenty thick

I think it will be nice to have! I'm kinda thinking about a wood stove similar to this setup, except use a couple smaller propane tanks for durability. I was going to ask you, what kinda wood stove do you have? I bet with all the timber up there you heat with wood!

It really aint too exciting im sad to say... Just trying to make it easier to dispense the oil from the barrels to use it to start brush pile fires, by placing them horizontally and giving me some more capacity. I got a lot of equipment so I change oil a lot and Im cheap lol. Here is what I am evisioning lol

OK perfect, if they are just regular pipe thread I will go measure it and go get some plumbing stuff! Thanks.

I love it! I will be watching for it on letterman in the coming weeks.

Alright, pretty smart guys on here. I have an off-topic question, this looks like the right area to post it... I want to clean up my used oil storage setup... As you can see, it is a mess.... So... What I am thinking is welding up some racks for the barrels so that I can lay them on their sides. I want a spigot on one of the threaded holes because I like to use that used oil to light brushpiles on fire that I pile up with my bulldozer and on the top I was thinking another spigot but inverted so I can simply open it and stick a funnel in to pour used oil in. What you all think??? Any ideas on what size of threads these are? Is it just pipe thread?

Your absolutely right... Shouldn't be leaking.... Who installed it?

If it aint, no biggie, you can pull them speedi sleeves off if you heat it up a little bit with a propane torch and grab the flange part of it with a pair of pliers and start twistin.

Good tip!

It smoking at all??? Valves set right?? You need to get ahold of an ISB compression test adapter and check for good compression on this motor.... You will find out real quick if you got a mechanical issue, you might have a low hole I have seen a couple like this before. You haven't drilled the connector tubes out larger have you? like this... http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/STR-TU-15-26.html or this is the one i use and the one we used to use at the dodge house. snap on. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=68606&group_ID=1430

:lmao: hahahaha duallys make the rockin' world go round!!!!

Oh man... that sucks about your electrical problems... It is just a one piece deal on these. I just replaced mine trying to run down an electrical problem also..... Not too bad to do. Like he said that one plug behind the IP is kinda hard to reach and there are a couple other spots you will cuss about, but not too bad.

Lil dab of gear lube on the lips. I have put them on dry before though and haven't had a problem.

Thanks, I hope it will help someone. Absolutely right about the jacks failing! Better safe than dead!

Is it possible? Want to get mine re-upholstered.

You got it. Snap on makes a great torque multiplier... BUT they are pricey!!!! The one I used came from Northerntool.com BUT it is an older one that has been discontinued... They do have another one that looks to be pretty good. About $179. Little expensive I know, but I have found it to be very useful on the farm on stuff like tractor lug nuts and dozer track bolts and such. LOVE it and you can disassemble it and grease all the planetary gears up real nice, should last forever if not overloaded! The pullers, you can get them from sears.com. They sell a 2 pack of craftsman branded ones that are guaranteed forever which is always good! Or you can get them from Snap-on, mac, and similar... Make sure that it is has long teeth though! The seal on my dana 80 was HARD to pull because it was mostly rubber, have to really get a puller with long teeth to get in far enough to get to the metal part of the seal to pull it. Torque wrench, just anywhere. I had a snap on but, it was stolen...... SO, because money is tight, I looked around a lot and found northerntool.com has some good prices as well as a lifetime warranty on theirs!! SO that is what I went with. Anybody have any other questions, feel free. --- Update to the previous post... Also, you need to check the pinion bearings for play. With the driveshaft removed and before you pull the nut or yoke, see if you can move the yoke and pinion up and down. If you can, then you are going to have to look into replacing the pinion bearings. They can get bad over time when the fluid level in the rear axle is low...... But if you keep up with fluid changes and stay on top of leaks you should be good to go! My seal failed because it simply wore out after 10 years... ALSO, check your axle vent tube for obstruction as well as the vent orfice on top of the axle, stick a pick in it and wiggle it around. One reason a pinion seal can fail is a plugged diff vent...