015point9

Is there really valuable parts I would want to consider pulling of a 99 gas model before owner has it towed away, without starting my own junk yard? ? In my area parts not that easy to find sometimes. (Took me couple months to find a fuel tank) Body parts...nothing without minor dents. Interior...shot. Any parts that are rare I should consider?

Got some wire and a inline fuse laying around? While testing my df100 in a bucket, i hung pump on fence and ran pump off battery to seperate if pump or ??? Was working. PS turned out my elec connection at pump was not good tight connection.

If you just need the gauge part I might have one. Got it from geno's couple years ago. Never put it in because once inside module found out what as a mess. Ended up getting entire new module with gauge. If interested let me know as I have to make sure I still have it (ie find it??) on west coast.

FYI...follow up in latest TDR issue 99 starting on page 8. Then guys at Geno's added work they did, ending article that they don't think they have "final answer" either.

You killed the bad stuff when you boiled it. That is those that survived the freezer.

On west side of cascades? If so believe you have two types. Seen most often is called Downey and hairy. Not unusual for males to steak out territory. Even early in year. Males like to bang on shinny stuff or other stuff that catches their fancy. Younger males like to be the first one in area and then they think area is theres. Only to be out classed by older males later (mid March +/- when more food and females and don't peck on stuff so much. But keep sharp eye out...if going back to same exact spot they could be eating insects, which isn"t good if new lumber or your house. Year before last we had one that loved to peck on metal chimney cap. Made a strange drumming noise, lasted couple weeks till they moved on. If you nail any... plastic bag and wash hands. Vile stuff they can carry around.

Op here...thanks for replies. How easy is it to screw up those elec components in my learning? Obviously not going to on purpose, and fused protected if I do?

Ok for example and just opening up my book...page 85 is code p-0236, map sensor too high too long has 9 steps and the "verifiacation" test has 39 steps. On many postings, some people on here can solve the problem in about 3 sentences. How long did it take and how did you learn... to cut thru all the "chatter" to hone in and know what the problem is.

I could use some schooling of what you think would be the best way for someone that knows very little about our electronics work on our trucks. I've have read somewhat...between the net and dodge manuals so I do have a general understanding. I do use a code reader to track down problems. But many postings goes over my head quickly. Anybody care to share how you learned about how these electronic machines on wheels work? (Telling my age) I'm willing to trade...if you need to set your points or cam angle or find which coil over plug is bad...i can help.??? Any help appreciated to material that would get me up to speed for our 2nd gens. Alot of stuff i've looked at online is very general.

If springs are 60 max and e brake creates 60... No (safety) margin left inbewteen what could be breaking point. Anyway to turn down e brake or to make less effective? (Edited part) Or maybe one should ask has anybody broke a valve spring under above conditions?

What valve springs does 24 valve have? (I never thought about that before.)

My bust...I meant gallon per hour not gallon per min. Although when filling it up I feel like its gallon per min watching the dollars go around.

Agree...as I'm set up now, only 90's are Airdog back to fuel module and into vp. At the time I was experimenting installing a line to rear bumper area, some type of port with shut off valve so I could fill a 3 or 5 gallon gas can for someone needing some.

Trying to figure out what pressure my 95 would be with longer hose and more 90 degree turns...I hung mine on a fence to measure flow psi and gallon per min. While I forget actual number...pump didn't come close to model number of 95. I thought model number (95) represented gallon per min. Not even close.

Yes, I understand can buy most anywhere. However as described by poster...really good stuff. I can't tell what is good. Was going to look up MDS info on them to see what is so good. Looking today at local auto elec shop they used Misty contact & circuit board cleaner A0038 My Overall reason of picking good product to have handy around house..last year...lost code reader , battery leaked. Switch for hot water in rv.

Thanks Foumd it on Page 8. That thread one of the most interesting, even though miles above my elec knowledge Thanks again

Within last 3 days somebody posted about an electrail cleaner that is supposed to be really good stuff. I've searched and can't find. Anybody remember? Thanks

You state you are going to install yourself. My BD is not user friendly direction wise but it works better than my in-laws Pac brake in his 7.3. We both agree. Unsure what models we each have. Or if our 2nd gen has more compression or what ever. I think if buying again I would go with Pac brake if directions are better and if they had phone number in US. I spent about 20 min on phone with BD tech dept and surprised by added charges on phone bill. Maybe different now in 2018 than 2008. And I think Pacbrake has more support if you need any. On my exhaust thing there are 2 ports that are plugged off with brass plug. 1 for temp probe and 1 is test port. I didn't need either (never touched) but the plug for test port came out going down mountain pass. Made he'll of racket and burned hole in rubber strip that goes across. That is when I called them. Beyond that has worked excellent and wouldn't be without one towing trailers on grades and. ? and wife no longer telling me to slowdown.?

Google up... diesel compatibility chart. ABS is ok Which really surprised me when I picked up mine from mechanic with schedule 40 pvc. My old module...1/2 bulkhead fitting then couple brass nipples. Holes in sides...about 3 inches up from bottom. Holes in about 10 2 and 6 O'clock positions. Drilled with steep drill. Bottom screen removed. Return line dumps into basket. That line cut about level with drilled holes. New fuel gauge...that doesn't want to work (yet??)

Dynamic...just sent your above post to my e mail to discuss this summer when over there in Spokane.

After my fass failure ( 16 years of flawless problems) we were at a rv place and couldn't do the work myself. Mechanic installed a Airdog pump with a sump. I didn't care for the fuel line hose run underneath. And It leaked shortly there after. I would never have a sump again. One rubber "0" ring separates you from major fuel leak or road debris. Mine is now...modified fuel module to airdog 95 or 100 to vp44. 1/2 line. With Shut off valves and gic fittings. I carry a spare carter pump and can swop out pumps in about 20 min should any lift pump problems happen again. My thinking was if lift pump ever failed again ...I would not be held captive by any "mechanic" again. Vulcan diesel has fuel modules modified or do it your self. After all the hassle of having a bad mechanic I now have draw straw, sump and mod fuel module. And all were shipped in "overnight air". (Adding about another hundred bucks to the total bill. Lots of air freight bewtween yuma and phoenix?) anyway ended up with airdog pump but fass is easier to talk with imo. Fuel pressure gauge should be oem.

All I can say is think at least one step ahead before doing anything. Many RV dealers might be good to buy at but their shop might be another story. Don’t know if you paid for any warranty’s or if your RV dealers shop real job is to reject any claims. Being you bought it new, you might have some reading material from the roof manufacture of what prep work to do before repairs. If you never used Dicor before bear in mind there are different types. One for vertical surfaces and one for horizontal. And then you still have to get right color. They also have different colors of white (or used to). White, bright white and Dove white. Here is a link of “how to” stuff from Dicor. https://dicorproducts.com/resourcesrudys/ When I replaced a skylight several years ago the manufacture of skylight said to use his caulking http://www.icondirect.com/skylight-sealant/ or the same thing just private labeled http://www.surebond.com/tech_data_sheets/SB-140TDS.pdf reason was because the compatibility of Dicor with the type of plastics skylights are made of. Then several months later when going thru eastern Oregon we stopped at Arctic Fox, the OEM and asked them what caulking they use and their answer was "we use about 4 different types of caulking, we get it mostly in 55 gallons barrels from how ever gives us right price". But I think the majority of places use Dicor including me. Only real advice I can give is...make sure your shoes don't have any little stones caught in the bottom of your souls that could puncture the roof. And I use paper towels by the roll when working with the stuff and I use a cheap yoga mat when on roof to dissipate weight of knees or toes. TPO roofs on RV's are only so many mil's thick. Lots thinner TPO than what is on commercial buildings. Another hint...Darker color you have on nose cone...If it's a decal and not paint keep a good coat of something on it. Darker colors decals tend to sun fade and crack faster then white, but do look better IMO. P.S. wife was looking over my shoulder when I was posting and saw your pic's. She has always wanted an "Island kitchen"

Sounds good… Never heard of 303 on roof though. First thing I’d do is send in all those warranty cards, then get an old school 3 ring binder and some plastic protectors, from staples or whatever. Then write down everything in RV by manufacture and model number, then print out a their PDF file. Some have yearly maint you should do or will have exploded view that might come in handy. Like part numbers or wiring on thermostat. (Newer t-stats have lots of wires) If not in any books, and if dealer knows…see if you can get paint code and torque for lug nuts. Then write them down in your 3 ring binder. If axles has “never lube” pick up a spare set of bearings. If Dexter they will have lots of info. You’re axle spec’s sticker are probably right in the middle of axle tube. Write them down now because they are hard to see once road grime and dirt does it thing. If you have the bearing hubs that have to be pressed on and off, many people carry a spare. So you’re not captive to a RV dealer somewhere. Water is biggest killer of RVs IMO. I don’t use “city water” anymore, but if you do be sure to pressure test to the standards to your year model to make sure no water leaks are happening. It is not the big ones that get you, it’s the little tiny drip you don’t know about and over time takes it toll.

Congrats...Neighbor where we have rv lot has one, they have full timed in it maybe 5 years old now. No major problems. They are built good, I really like his "water bay" with fancy water manifold. We exchange e-mail often. He tells me Grand Design change axles this year. Now using Dexter. Here's some stuff on it. https://www.granddesignowners.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-12996.html He keeps a close eye on making sure roof and trip is sealed up with caulking. My maint. check list that I do on mine, I used his stuff as example.

Sounds normal for putting screws to public. One would think every dump within state would be the same rules. After lots of reading getting rid of old siding...I found out if I double wrapped each bag and not over 35 pounds and with certain thickness of plastic I was OK. Rules seem to on forever. But be thankful we don't have to re-cycle like Japan. Watched a place getting demo'd close to base. They had to strip off the plastic of wires and they pulled nails in all wood.