Rogan

so far so good..

he DEFINITELY spent some rounds...

there's no real way to "0" the APPS as it hasnt that much adjustment room. Maybe 2-5* of adjustment, max. It does shift funny, but that's mostly chalked up to a bad governor pressure solenoid in the trans, which I'll be ordering this weekend.

Autos have a tps for trans control From the Galaxy S3

this is what I was gonna say, as well as suggest. Also, I had a similar issue on my old Grand Cherokee Ltd. There was a little yellowish plastic screw-in thingy on the ABS block, with a single wire connected to it. I replaced it with a junkyard piece and my lights went out.. to this day, I still have no idea what that was.

I just drooled a little.. maybe more.

Hi, Ben. What is the vehicle description? Any mods, programmer, etc? - - - Updated - - - [h=1]http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 DTC P1689: NO COMMUNICATION BETWEEN ECM & INJECTION PUMP MODULE (OBDII)[/h] [h=2]Monitor & Set Conditions[/h] Communication between Engine Control Module (ECM) and fuel injection pump module is monitored when ignition is on. Injection pump module is referred to as Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) in test procedures. DTC may be stored if the time between CAN messages is more than 3 seconds or FPCM does not receive CAN message. [h=2]Possible Causes[/h] [*] Wiring & Connectors [*] Fuel Injection Pump Relay Output Circuit Open [*] Ground Circuit Open Or High Resistance [*] Datalink (+) Circuit Open [*] Datalink (+) Circuit Shorted To Ground [*] Datalink (-) Open [*] Datalink (-) Shorted To Ground [*] ECM [h=2]Testing[/h] 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, check for DTCs. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1689 is displayed and not equal to zero, go to next step. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1689 is displayed and equal to zero, go to step 3 . 2. Turn ignition off. At this time, conditions required for DTC to be stored are not present. Inspect wiring and connectors between FPCM and ECM. FPCM located on top of fuel injection pump. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. If no problems exist, go to next step. If any problems exist, repair wiring or connectors as necessary. 3. Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect FPCM harness connector. FPCM harness connector is located on end of fuel injection pump. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at FPCM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 7 (Red/Light Green wire) on FPCM harness connector. If voltage is 8 volts or greater, go to next step. If voltage is less than 8 volts, perform DTC P0215: FUEL INJECTION PUMP CONTROL CIRCUIT test. 4. Turn ignition off. Ensure FPCM connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Connect a test light between battery voltage and terminal No. 6 (Black/Tan wire) on FPCM connector. This is the ground circuit for FPCM. If test light illuminates brightly, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate brightly, repair open or high resistance on Black/Tan wire between FPCM and ground connection. Ground connection is located at ground connection for negative battery terminal. 5. Ensure ignition is off and FPCM harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Using DVOM, measure resistance of White wire between terminal No. 2 on FPCM harness connector and terminal No. 13 on ECM harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or greater, repair open or high resistance in White wire between FPCM and ECM. 6. Ensure ignition is off and FPCM harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 2 (White wire) on FPCM connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in White wire between FPCM and ECM. 7. Ensure ignition is off and FPCM harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Black wire between terminal No. 1 on FPCM harness connector and terminal No. 23 on ECM harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or greater, repair open or high resistance in Black wire between FPCM and ECM. 8. Ensure ignition is off and FPCM harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 1 (Black wire) on FPCM harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or greater, replace and program ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Black wire between FPCM and ECM.

I've had both wired and wireless. Wireless was good, was a stand-alone like a GPS, but did receive interference every so often. The wired unit is pretty good, but the camera is cheap. It takes a few seconds to "warm up" and be functional, vision-wise. Also, the wired one is a rear-view mirror "overlay", but has dual inputs, so running dual cameras in no issue. You'd just need to run an RCA cable the length of the towed vehicle, with enough slack to function in the hinge-point. It's downfall was (again) a cheap camera, with a long "warm up" time. Also, the screen is a large 5" screen, but it resides behind a slightly tinted glass (mirror function) which makes it really hard to see the camera view during the day (lots-o-glare).. - - - Updated - - - Oh, for search-purposes: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/search.php?searchid=234908

My '01 was on the complete opposite end of the M73M economy spectrum, with an average of 12.8mpg over about 10 tanks of fuel..Of course, the last trip I took it on (to trade it) was 17.8mpg over a 40mi trip. :banghead:which was also about the best I've seen out of it in the past 12 months..

My '97's TPS reading (per SG2) at idle displays ~27. I don't know what this number represents, or if it's even correct.. Ideas?Thanks,

Ensure BOTH front tires are off the ground. Otherwise, disconnect the sway bar. This will restrict one side from dropping.. Also, if the SB bushings are dry and tight, you may have to fight that down, or just loosen the swaybar bushing saddles to allow them to slip easier..

So far, ^^^ this seems to have worked..

yeah, I wouldn't worry too much with the boxes.

Oh, I meant to add. the axle-mounted sensor IS a VSS, as you stated. However, the "OSS Sensor" (Output Shaft Speed) is on the transmission.

From the Galaxy S3

I'll try to touch base with him on Monday morning, before I order the governor solenoid and pressure sensor.Thanks!

In my 97 CTD, the SG2 keeps shutting off randomly. I've discussed this (offline) with M73M. Reading on their site today, I read this:

Monday, I'll be ordering a HD governor solenoid and pressure sensor.. It'll take a few days for them to get here, so I'll update this once they arrive and are installed.

most older outboards are 2stroke.most older inboards are 4stroke.Volvo 5.0L is a 4stroke, usually gas, IIRC. I think they have some nomenclatures as (example) 5.0L GXiC..G = gasX = Extreme HP versioni = Fuel InjectedC = catalytic converterThe Volvo Pentas are (basically) GM/Chevy engines...I used to have a Baja 212 with a Mercruiser 502 MPI.. At 30mph, it got about 1.6MPG..

rear diff sensor = speed sensor (speedo, etc.)left-center sensor = NSSleft-center-top = Solenoid controllerleft-rear sensor = Output shaft sensorI replaced the OSS today, no change. I'll be ordering the governor solenoid and governor pressure sensor in the next few days. HOPEFULLY that will fix it, or at least, make it a lot better.

It started out this evening doing fine. 1/4 way home, I had to stop at the store. Left truck running. Came out, no first gear. WTF?!?! From the Galaxy S3 - - - Updated - - - George, I checked the plugs, etc. Everything was tight. I found the trans solenoid box, and a couple other 2-wire switches.. one is close to the linkages and solenoid controller on the left side of the trans.. the other is back close to where the trans and t-case mate, on the left side of the trans.. I'm gonna try to see what they are if I can find out. there's also a sensor on the rear diff, 12 o'clock position (VSS?)

It's open for awhile, if ya wanna come on in..

Hayden has been around a long time, as has ACDelco.. I've used other Hayden products in the past with good results (electric fans, trans and oil coolers, etc.)

I've seen them with both.From the Galaxy S3

At lunch, I decided to go drive the truck around the building. Guess what? It shifted fine. This is so weird. Two days in a row, now, where it won't shift correctly the first drive of the day, then will once it's sat for a few hours. It could very-well be a coincidence, but it does seem odd. Monday, when it would throw the two codes, I could clear them and they would come right back. Today, I cleared them, and they did not return. We'll see how it acts when I leave work this evening...