dripley

the TIMBO apps dont have a sticker to adjust voltage to. There is some voltage reference in the instructions.but I have just adjusted mine with the idle screw, if that is what they call it. I have no issues with this method.

I have had 3 lift pump failures. One, the oe, with no pressure gauge and the truck just stopped running down the interstate like it had run out of fuel. Had no fp gauge or knowledge of the system then. The other 2 was with a gauge and the truck never quit running. I just happen to notice 0 pressure. Had one other 0 FP issue that turned out to be a blown fuse. So that gauge is important. Mine just failed, no real rhyme or reason. The only other warning I would know is lower than normal pressure that a filter change does not fix. Check your pump fuse also if the pump is not running and let us know what you find when you get to check it out.

The air I am talking is most likely in the high pressure lines and will require you to open some of them. 1 3 and 4 work very well. Leave them open while cranking the truck. Back the nut off but not all the way. This way you can see if fuel is getting to the injectors. As you get fuel to one tighten it down and so on. It should fire then but will run rough until all the air is out. Just like it did the one time you got it to fire off for a few seconds. Of course the above is moot if the lift pump is not pumping fuel to the VP.

Sounds like you still have some air in the system. Have you tried opening some of the injector lines at the head to be sure you have fuel to them? As afar as the pump is concerned, when you get back to it bump the starter, no engine start, and see if it runs. It should for 20 or so seconds. Do that just confirm the pump is running.

Welcome back. Is the 98 white?

Did 12V's have cats on them?

As in 15" diameter? Thats more like a bucket than a tip. Though I have seen some big ones. Or are speaking of length?

One way to know if you apps is aftermarket is where it plugs in. On the OE apps, the wiring harness pugs directly into the sensor. The Timbo has a pig tail off the sensor that the harness plugs into. That puts the connection out from behind the bell crank assembly.

Several of the posts I have read are from folks that use the resonator on it is own. All I have read is the key to the install is to put it as far forward in the system as possible. I would attach mine directly to the down pipe. That could be part of the issue especially if it discharges directly under the bed and not at least to the side as in the stock configuration. I have a 5" tip on mine discharging to the side behind the rear wheel. Very much like stock though it does protrude a bit further, a couple inches maybe. I am running a 4" Banks system with flow thru muffler.

Although I dont have one, I have read a lot of good results from the FTE resonator and it will be the way I go when I get to that point.

All my MAP problems went away when I repaired the 5v supply that fed all the other sensors. There is a separate 5v supply for the MAP. Then my engine surging that came back quit when the weather cooled and I quit using the AC. If I turn the AC on it will start again. Turn the AC and engine off and it is gone after restart. Ghosts is better description. My brake and ABS lights were on a while back so I replaced all three sensors and the 2 front unit bearings and they stayed on for about 3 months maybe and went off. Still have not come back on. Glad something going your way.

I would think as long as moisture did not get inside the internals it ought be fine. I would not be afraid to put it on and run some fuel thru it and see what comes out of it. I will give it a try for you if you like. but I might not give it back.

Is it doing anything out of the ordinary other than a little lope now and then? I would look into at least a pyrometer also. 33's + 150's + the Edge ought to equal a smokey hot truck especially on 3.55's. 4.10's would be better. If you have the cash a FP, EGT, and Boost gauge is a good combo to have. You can usually find a decent deal on the 3 gauge set up.

While I cannot disagree with the logic of this, it is something I have never done. I have always run my fuel down where I put in 30+ gallons. If it is a interstate run I am on I dont stop until somewhere around the low fuel light comes on. If I am towing I wont stretch it quite that far. I have always wondered what the fuel temp is in that situation just not enough to put a means on the check it with.

I ran my stockers for 250k or so and put in some 275s. You will like it. The combination of new injectors and bigger on top that will be noticeable. Ought to pick up a little mpg too. At least I did in mine. I had a Banks tuner and not Smarty. But I also did not see the mileage that @04Mach1 is seeing. I also like the bio diesel. 5% bio blend is rated better than the 2 stroke. It is not mandated out my way so you dont know whether you get it or not. 5% or less does not have to be labeled.

You will need to see what pressure you have at idle and more importantly WOT, this traveling down the road under load. I would highly advise getting one installed in the cab. If the lift fails and you dont know it has the VP will go next. Proper fuel pressure is the life blood of the VP. Minimum at WOT should be 14 psi and idle anywhere above. 20 psi is more than enough at idle.

Do you loping at idle occasionally? Do have a fuel pressure gauge?

The Fass took the place of your lift pump. The oe pumps were not up to the job. So no you do NOT need to add one.

I am curious about this since my ECM is apparently made by Cummins or at least has their name on it. Was Cummins making them under license of Dodge. My OE did did not have the Cummins name on it as I remember.

Fuel pressure and codes are going help more than you know. I have had dead pedal from fuel pressure and wiring issues. Do still have the original lift pump on it too?

The only trouble with cooling I have ever had is when the radiator was dirty and the one time I pulled my 5th wheel up the mountain with 3 of my winter fronts in when it warmed to 65 or so degrees. That was up a 6 mile 6% percent grade. I can normally pull that grade and at worst see 210* maybe 215*. I still have the oe fan clutch and it still works fine. Thats on a 190* stat and right at 23k. I have just never had any cooling issues with the 02. Except in the winter. Cools off to quick off the interstate.

Well I can't top that but we pumped about 90 yards today in the city. Settle pump up and had some trouble due to soil. The outriggers on the pump kept sinking due to bad soil. That is 12 sheets of .5 inch plywood on the side the boom was not on. This is the other side the boom was on. All that lumber is bowed down about 4 inches. It is a 38 meter pump extended about 85%. A #6 is about the biggest we see on my projects but all placed and hand tied like what you are seeing. And the finished product, 180 feet of retaining wall footing. Should of got picture of the pump. They are an amazing piece of equipment.

Just to add this, the 2002 wiring diagram show 3 wires to the the oil pressure "sensor", but my 02 only has one. The 5v reference only goes to my map sensor. This change happened somewhere in 01 and 02. So if you are basing 3 wires on the schematic, you should check to be sure. Mine is a switch only and an early 02, bought it in October of 01.

Well looks lime you got things going your way on truck. Good luck with the rest of it and a Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours too.

Good to hear you resolved the issue.