dripley

I have done what you have done before but did remove some of the blue phenolic clamps to allow for some wiggle room. As long as you did not have to pry the lines out of the way to remove the tubes you should be ok. In the 4 times I have removed the VP l have only removed 3 lines and never all 6. Injector sezp pretty much the same thing. If those lines are not sealed you know it pretty quick.

Got home to late tonight and most likely the next 2 days. I could see something loose causing the issue but cant understand why running a diagnostic on the cluster brings the WTS back to life

There is 2 dowels, IIRC, on the block for proper placement of the head. You will see them when you remove yours. Just get the head on those dowels and you are golden. Then insert the the studs or bolts.

had the same problem the other but @Mopar1973Man fixed it. hopefully he can do it again. as soon as l posted that the pics are there.

There is that pesky picture problem again. Or at least I cannot see them.

Good to see you are still above the dirt.

The wife's Equinox for now. But I am looking for something else.

Unless you know a machine shop that will deck the head over the weekend, this not a quick job. When I did mine, getting the machine work was the longest part.

Didn't get to do much with truck this weekend except to redo the ground splice near the pcm that @IBMobile has an article on. Idled the for about 3 hours and ir ran fine. WTS light always came on. So after soldering the ground splice I took off up the road. Didn't get a 1/4 mile and it shuts down. No WTS light and no start. 1694 code is present. To late to do the diagnostics on it tonight. My question for know is what does the instrument cluster have to do with bringing the WTS back? Thats twice thats happened and this time I know the WTS was not working prior to running the test on the cluster. Maybe just a fluke. I have a spare cluster and will throw it in tomorrow if its not to late in the day and see if it makes a difference. For now I dont trust it to get to work. ACS will repair that part of the ECM for 200 bucks. The down will suck for the work and shipping time involved however. Aint life a ***** at times.

I drained 6 quarts of oil from the trans and the underside of the shift tower had oil residue on it as did the plastic cap. It seems to me that if was lack of lubrication that the cap would have been worn thru somewhere. It was worn enough that it fit over the other shifter with room to spare. I have no idea what that cap is made of. I guess its possible I could have put my oe shift tower on the second trans and that would put about 600k on it. But thats still alot wear on that steel. I lost maybe 40% of the ball. But that was a long time ago.

It wore the the whole ball down but still rode in the plastc cup that rides in the tranny. It got where when in gear I could move the shifter around in a 4" or so square at the shift knob. Just did not expect to see the the steel worn that much, thought the the cap was the sacraficial piece. It took less wear than the ball.

This one is a new one I replaced the oe with back in 2010. It sat idling for an hour this pm and didn't miss alick. Restarted find a couple times. Still a bit leary to drive 65 miles to work though. Hoping it is a bad wire or ground. Going to take it over to my sons work in with ac in it over the week end and see what I can find. For anyone. Does the instrument cluster have anything to do with the ECM and PCM cummunicating?

Cant disagree with that, but cant help but hold out a little hope its not. I just went out and did an instrument cluster test. That did not show anything but the WTS light came at the end and fired right off. No surprise there. The Solus connected this time and picked up the 1694 in the PCM and cleared it. Been running for 30 minutes now and up to temp. The few times it did this was on cold or hot engine, did not care which. But today was the first time it shout down for an exteded period. Going to let it run for a while and see what happens.

Well after all the nice things I have done for my truck it died today. It has cut off on me maybe 6 times at idle over the past 3 weeks but always started right back and kept going. I gues she paying me back for ignoring her. My scan gauge said there were no codes. I did the key trick and got a P 1694 code. I hooked up a snap on solust to her and it read no codes. Thanks to @Haggar for that and I am going to bring back to you. I tried to connect with the PCM and it wont connect, then the ecm with the same results. Checked the codes again and nothing, no connection. Even reconnected the scan gauge and now it will not connect. I ruled out the lift pump by hot wiring it because the ECM was not turning it on.. I also have no WTS. I wont start she just turns over. I left the key on for quite a while and never saw the WTS illuminate nor would it start. I guess the truck is brain dead. Hope its not both of them. What do ya'll think?

Going to try this on the lap top/ So much for the laptop.

Most times they will find you. But they can be sneaky, Leaky.

Sounds very much like my first experience with replacing the unit bearings. Brute force was the primary tool. I used anti sieze on all the parts when reassembling. So by the time ball joint replacement came diassembly was a piece of cake. Removing the ball joints was not. I ended up beating the lowers out with a socket and a brother.

I will try the pictures again. Mi e had alot slop but the ball on the end of the shifter was worn really bad. Thought the plastic would would have been near gone. It was worn the the metal was worn away worse. On a different note Metamucil helps me shift better. Thats the part I describing. @Mopar1973Man any reason this pictures dont want to post? When I attach them and click submit reply they are there. But after moving on to something else and coming back to the thread they are not there. Help!!!

In the FWIW column. it shifts alot better.

I cant check my fuel temp but the truck has run with both returns and the pickup in the basket for 10 years. All of that on the VP that went 275k. Got about 60k on the replacement. I hope this one likes it as much as the last one.

I had 96 V10. I got 12mpg on the interstate, 6 to 8 intown, and 4 to 4.5 towing. Had to fill the tank every 125 miles or so. Made for a long trip towing. Gas was only a dollar a gallo back then. Still sucked.

Mine is in the same place as Mike's but definitely amber. And we both have 02's.

Catching up maintenance so I a fluid change in the tranny is in order. I had notice some slop in the shifter so I ordered a new button for the knob on end of the tower. Got the thing apart abd the stayed in the tranny which seemed a bit odd to me but maybe it is that worn. Looking at knob its football shaped for lack of better term. The one on the right is the one I took off beside the spare I have. This might show it better. The button had some wear but not much. It still snapped on the spare where it just falls on and off of the one out of the tranny. My little pea brain always told my self that the button would go first and not the shifter. Anyone else have there wear this way?

I think my cruise light is amber in color but in same location as Mike's.

When mine is on tbe word cruise appears under the odometer. I have no indicater light other than that. Figured yours was just one of the subtle differences between the years. Where is that green indicator light?