dripley

Check both ends of the track bar too. Just replaced a mine month ago and was surprised to see how bad the bushing end was. The rubber was falling apart. The late models are hard on them. I still run the oe shaft on mine.

Mine needs a good scraping and a bath in blue paint. Yours looks very nice.

I have not bought my snubber yet. Still running the 10 year old needle valve.

What makes you think the engine needs an overhaul?

That is a bit slow. Mine crawled when I first installed it. More like 5 seconds or so. 5 minutes is galcial in speed. Have yountried opening the needle more?

One side of the the teeth on the belt is very noticeably rounded off.

Damn boys, none of that sounds like any fun at all.

I lost two in just over a year and then thought I lost another but turned out it was fine. Not sure what caused the others to fail but we will see how long this goes.

When my was new I could slow it to a crawl and worked fine. It is a bit older now and a little harder to do that now. Sounds like the snubber is the cause since both gauges react the same way. Not sure I would worry about it. What is your concern?

Does look a bit worn. Happy found that problem.

It is my understanding the park feature for the wipers is in the motor. No expert for sure on the subject. When mine failed the barely moved. I took one wiper off the truck so the lone one would still work, until the parts arrived. I also had to turn it off when the blade was down or it would stop where ever it was. I tested at the motor connector and was not getting the proper voltages. The multi function switch was my issue. Again I am no expert, this was just the experience I had.

The Dorman part scares me a bit. But I have some things made by them with succes. Who knows. Let us know how it works out.

You better double check that one. Make sure it is not just a cover. IIRC I paid good bit more than that for mine from LMC. More on the wipers. I misstated my solution. Mine was the multi function switch and not the motor. I still would not know what the CTM has to do with wipers. Not that it does not control them, I just dont know..

The picture did not load but as far as I know leveling kits go on the front and not the rear. Stock the trucks have about 3" of rake with the front end being the low point. I always liked the rake. And with my 5th wheel on the bed the truck sat very level. With a leveling kit on it the rear would be squatted. I cant stand that look when towing. There is a thing going around here in NC, They call it the Carolina Squat. They are lowering the rear and jacking up the front, sometimes 10" or more difference between the 2. Dont know how anyone sees out of them.. Read today that the NC general assembly has almost outlawed it and is only one step away from doing it. I vote with them on this one. https://www.google.com/search?q=carolina+squat+truck&sxsrf=ALeKk03iRWvbTuNX80RSnrP4lKbrDnAu5Q:1623207852233&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=UOUmhfEGg6kFzM%2Cg_bhldIMC2u6BM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSfATGgek9Z-uRGrHehGRYTZzzCHA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiu4La7yInxAhXaaM0KHe0RB4YQ9QF6BAgLEAE&biw=1341&bih=647#imgrc=UOUmhfEGg6kFzM You be the Judge.

Well I cant help with all that from here. But I life goes like it looks I will be in LaPlace LA soon. Any chance that is near Bossier city?

Dont know how to touch all of that tonight, but the LMC dash is pricey but mine has about 9 years on it and still looks fine. I also bought the dash bezel about 2 years ago and love them both. Head lights are a toss up unless you go with some of the more expensive projectors. Me, I bought a cheap set of clear lens for about 60 bucks and put a set of $35 LED's in them and got very lucky. Nice light and they do not light the cab of the vehicle in front of me. Steering box Blue Top gets my vote. Mirrors, your link looks to be good. I have some on mine that were cheaper I think but they need to be replaced. About 5 years old I think. Cant remember. If yours is an SLT the wiring should already be in the door. If the truck did not come with them you will need a different HVAC control switch. The heater button in on the controls. A lot of used ones out there pretty reasonable. Mine were not factory and thats the route I had to go. You will also need the switch for the mirror adjustment. Also easily found used. I will leave the sway bar stuff to others. The wiper delay is in the wiper motor. Not sure what the CTM has to do with it. Mine went out a few months ago and the motor fixed it. Door locks I do not know about. What the CTM has to do with them both is beyond my paygrade. Good luck.

your truck does not know the hobbs switch is there to throw a code.

A lot of truth in that. My stuff acts the same way. Hmmm. it was working fine yesterday.

The DAP injectors will help but the big tires are still putting a big load on the engine; So Yes they will help but no they will not solve all of your problem. The RV's would help but you will loose some power. How much I dont know. I run RV's in mine on an Edge comp and they are smokey a bit until the turbo catches up.

Seems to be a common problem sometimes.

One of the reasons I went with the AD 165II way back when was that it had and adjustable pressure regulator on it. Once I got it set where I wanted it the only times I have touched was twice when putting a new pump head on. Dont know how its built but it is original and still works fine. Now if they had only the pump heads that good it would be the perfect pump.

Now that makes more sense. Not to worry, definitely not the first typo we have seen here.

I read pros and cons on the solder and since I did not have crimper I just soldered them and they have held up fine for the past 3 years. I think a man has to do what he feels best with. Thought about HF crimper but did not know how well they work. Apparently ok.

1900 at 65 does not spell big tires on 3:55 gears. My 265's turn about 1850 at 65, and 2000 at 70. Are you sure you dont have 4:10 gears or am I missing something here?