dripley

Funny you mention that, my temp gauge moves almost constantly and after fan clutch locked it stayed at 188 while on the highway. It dipped some after getting on the secondary roads. But it did not move off of the 188 while at highway speed. That is a bit unusual for my truck.

While driving home this evening and getting off the highway my fan clutch came on. Stayed on the last 30 miles. Got home and opened the hood and it does not free spin at all. Everything looks fine, and the fan has no wobble like the bearings are shot, but it is definitely locked. No free spin what so ever. Just curious if any one has had this happen and did you drive it for a bit before fixing. it? I have two days left this week a have to get one way or another. My thought is it should be fine if all is still tight. At least for a couple days. What ya'll think?

Mine has done the same for the past 19.5 years. Hard to let go.

That and all the paper work is Chinese.

Mine let go in the same place except right around the corner on the passenger side. It is definitely not uncommon. Mine went around 460k but I drove it for about 20k before I could change it out. It never leaked enough that the coolant did not evaporate off the block. When the first drop finally hit the ground I swapped it out. That was stretching it a bit though. That is also good advice @Dieselfuture offered. I wished I would have done that myself.

How do you like that new turbo? You have been pretty quiet about it. I have yet to get to install mine yet.

I put mine back like stock. Machined the head, stock gasket, and reused the stock bolts. They were well within Cummins spec. I do have Comp on it and it held the power just fine. If I ever went to a Quad I would put studs in it. As far as o ringing it, i dont have a clue. @Mopar1973Man PLUCK THAT HEAD. BAWK!!!!!

No shield on mine since my first one installed about 10years ago.

Your leak is not unusual in that area. Same place mine let go at about 465k. There is a weak place in the gasket there. I drove mine for about 20k with the leak. Changed when the coolant finally dripped on the ground. and not just evaporated on the block. That leak should not put any water in the oil, but do keep and eye on it. It does need replacing but you not need to rush into and pay someone a premium to do the work. I did mine myself and saved a good chunk of cash.

My EB will not engage at idle unless the coolant temp is below 140. No need for it to be on at idle except for warm up.

And maybe a new picture in the sig??

All good to hear. And Mikey praising the 3rd is even better. Wish you all the luck with it my friend.

i am my PO and have smoked in my truck with the windows up and down for 20 years. I had to replace the sun glasses holder and few back. Bought the part and took it home. Went to install it and bam I have wrong color. The more I thought about it I got cleaner of some sort and sure enough I had the right color. Cleaned up very easy though. Guess the sun cant bake it on if it cant shine on it.

I have to agree with both of the above.

I think he left "not" out of the original statement. I usually pick on that because I have the same habit. No harm no foul.

@Tractorman is right. Thats why I asked a few posts back. I dont know how you got the 15.1 reading. The encore says 9.8, You are going to have slow down and not just throw another part at the problem. When my ECM failed I spent 2 months trying to figure out what the problem was. I bought a VP and a Timbo apps and neither fixed it. I quit throwing money at then. A new ECM did fix it but I was out of my league on the problem. Finally found a shop with very knowledgeable owner who helped me when the second reman died. Got luck on that one.

150's on my truck with the Comp and stock hx35 would smoke like freight train pulling a 2 mile line of coal cars. Not sure how it would act if I turned the Comp off and just ran stock. I would suspect as much or more smoke. But then again I have never turned it off to see, I would wait and get the injectors back and see how things are after install. That will be the true tell.

Jkidd knows alot more about this stuff than I for sure. I am still on a Comp and smoking the 275's until the trubo spools. A Quad for me one day maybe. Not first on the need list, maybe the want list though. Time will tell. I have an HE351w begging me to put on. Just need the time.

Zero smoke is a good way to ride.

Both of mine came apart several years ago. I pulled the whole console down and glued the halves of the switches together with some gray silicone. But mine very recently quit working. Those many years back you could get the whole wiring harness and switches for about 30 bucks. Think I will go that route for mine soon and stick some LED's in there.

I see even 3rd gen drivers seats can only take so much arse rubbing too.

Unfortunately you cannot buy a new one anymore and you would have to get yours rebuilt. ACS, auto computer specialists, I believe, is one company others have had success with. Just dont send out the first place you see. Not everyone can fix them. I went that route back in 2010 and it was an unpleasent experience. Went thru 2 of the units, one failed out of the box and the next lasted about 1 year. Finally bought a new in 2011. IIRC Auto Computer exchange was the name of the company. If you do go the rebuild route it would be good for you to get electrical system in order. That could be the main source of your problems including cooking the ECM. The 1694 code you mention says the ECM and PCM are not communicating with each other. You should pull those connectors inspect and clean them good and see if that helps. Electrical problems suck to say the least.

Where did you get the pump? It can be bad out of the box. The 216 code and your issues paint an ugly picture. I would not however run ATF thru the fuel. Try some TCW3 2 cycle oil. It is much compatible with the fuel system. The pump is lubricated by the fuel so the ATF is lubing the timing piston which is most likely try to seize and is to a degree. If it s that new I would warrantee it back to seller.

I would not just throw more parts at it. That seems to be a exercise in futility. Lets try to eliminate a few. The oil pressure sensor is easy. You dont have one since it is an 02. It is a single wire switch that is activated at around 6 psi and then the ECM takes over and positions the needle based on RPM and engine temp. Dodge made this change because folks were thinking their oil pressure was to low at idle. There is a TSB about it from Dodge. Had me fooled for quite. Didnt even believe it when I first heard about it. Its quite convincing. How did you test the charge voltage on alt to get the 15.1 volts? The photo above shows charge voltage at 9.8 volts. Either is not good. To high is harsh on the charge system and to low will make the electronics act weird. Your alternator could also be putting out to much AC voltage. This can harm the electronics. These trucks need good clean DC power to keep them running right. There is also an article by a member named WT. He has a very good article about a ground mod the cheap simple to do. He goes quite about this issue. I would link but for some I cannot access the articles section. Another test for the VP is to hot wire it. This takes the ECM out of the circuit and the pump should idle only. But if the pump is fine it should idle as long as it has fuel. If it does that then the ECM would be in question. Again there is an article on how to do it here but I can access them for some reason. You can also go to Blue Chip diese.com and they have a lot of info on the vp and some good trouble shooting info including hot wiring the pump. You already have a few problems point at the ECM, The lift pump is not functioning properly. At key on the pump should just bump the pressure a little for a second or 2. it only does this once per key on cycle and should not repeat it until another key on cycle. Now after turning the key to on if you bump the starter, no engine start, the lift pump should run for 25 seconds or so then shut down. The ECM controls this function too. Temp gauge pegging out is another. If you hot wire the pump and idles fine that would be another. The electrical system is the key part. It could frying your computers and causing electrical gremlins. I dealt with several for 3 years or so. I did WT ground mod and cleaned all my electrical connections including grounds and replaced my battery cables, made them myself a lot cheaper than buying premade which might not have been necessary but it made me feel better. Not another electrical gremlin since. If the shop you took it does not know these trucks you can and have spent a lot money already parts replacing. Time to get methodical.

I dont even know if I would fit in one at 6'4". Might be interesting to try but I dont have a desire to ride in one. Bought the wife a Chevy Equinox not long ago and the first thing we looked at was a Buick Envoy. I always get in the front seat and adjust it to fit me ant then go to the rear to see what kind of room there is. I sat in the back seat and could not even get foot in the door. Instant fail for me. But at least it had a back seat.