dripley

A couple years after changing the first one I found out that the whole system was supposed to be replaced with a pre bled unit which I thought was crazy. Thought the first change was PITA it proved to me you could swap in just one. part. Thats why I fought that trap out to where I could install the new master without having to turn the master with the outlet down, loosing some of the fluid. It worked this time as I did not have pump the clutch to get it into gear. I still had push it down to floor hard for the first few days but got to good point in just a few more days. I probably would not modify mine after this time. It seemed to work pretty good. Not knocking @Mopar1973Man's method either it seems to work too. I also always thought the trap in that line helped keep the air from moving further down the line. At least that is what I told myself.

Most places deal in pumps that are rebuilt by certified rebuilders. Takes some very expensive equipment to rebuild and calibrate them properly. There are only and handful of them but many resellers. I got mine from DAP but it was rebuilt at either Industrial Injection or Midwest fuel injection. Cant remember which now.

The position of nozzle does matter so the fuel sprays into the bowl of the piston. But how much the thickness of the washer does to affect that is beyond my knowledge. I am sure others will know.

Oh yeah, we have Smart Cars. First on I saw was in a parking lot with a vanity plate on it that read "DEATH TRAP". I thought that was appropriate.

It would be nice to know who rebuilt the pump and ECM. The pump to know if it got a new computer on it or not and the ECM just because they seem to be hard for folks to repair. The lift pump coming coming on and off is ECM controlled. Does the WTS light come on at key on? It should even just for a second or 2.

Neither my factory master and slave had any way to bleed them. My first install of the failed master I did on my own. Scratched my mead alot trying to figure how bleed it. I ended up filling it with as much fluid as I could get in it and hooked it it back up. Took at least month before the worked it self out of everything. It seemed to me at the time that the air was trapped in the dip in the line. But a good bit pumping for the next few weeks got the air out. This last time I was able to get the line partially out to where I could fill the master from outlet and not have to turn it over to connect it. That worked much better but there was still a little air on the inlet side of the master. It worked much better that way. The after market slave that I have now does have a bleeder screw on it but at the time I had no one to help bleed it. At least that is how I did mine.

Saw this in your other thread. That info appears whacky to me, unless you were turning 4256 rpm. I would not believe on them. Get the codes read and lets see what the truck trying to tell you. A p0606 would be a definite ECM failure, but we dont see that code tripped very often.. Mine did not trip it when it failed. but the first rebuilt one did.

Sorry to hear. You said it did cover it in the first post thats why I thought all was well.

Sorry to hear this, I dont have much use for a thief. But thats what insurance is for.

Mine failed where @NIsaacshas the mark. It is common place for a leak. Never thought I was too hard but like wind it up sometimes. Made it around 465K before it started weeping.

Actually there were 4 or 5 guys standing around when happened and they were laughing pretty good as I remember. Not a smart on my part but it was pretty entertaining. That is something I normally do but that day I just reached in the window with no hand shake. Had to learn that one on my own since I am the only member in family that has almost always had a stick. The last stick any one in my had was a Pinto. That was ways back.

All that foil wrapping and such you mention is not needed as long as the electrical system is working properly. It will hide the real problem which is most likely to much AC voltage from the alternator. I you did not have them test the Alt for stray AC voltage that could be part of your problem. 20+ years and 530k on mine with no foil or other things needed. Went thru some times with electrical gremlins but getting my electrical system in shape was the best thing I ever did to rid myself of them.

Is the truck stuck in 4 wd? The drive line will bind up and jump on a hard service unless you are going in a straight line.

looks like cap to me not sure. I think has more unused vacuum outlets than use ones.

I have to add one from the dumb *** switch part. I had heard stories that you could back up against a wall and let clutch out and the Cummins would just sit and spin the tires. So once at work a year or 2 after disabling mine. I had a reason to reach in my drivers window to fire the truck off, guess I thought it was out of gear. But it was in reverse and off she went. I was parked in front of 30yard dumpster partially filled and the trailer hitch hit it and pushed it along the asphalt into the dirt. When the rear of the dumpster mired up in the dirt and stopped the rear wheels were spinning on the asphalt. As Forrest Gump would say, Stupid is as stupid does. But it was pretty cool to see the tires spinning like that.

The spray pattern of the nozzles make a difference too. That seems to be problem with some. I also bought a new set a RV275's for my first injector change and was very happy with them. That is a good price your link advertise. IIRC I paid about $360 for my set about 12 years ago.

FWIW I removed mine and tied the wires together 15 years ago. This was the first stick I ever owned with that safety switch on the clutch. All the others I had relied on your brain. And I should add after seeing the cost of said switch I decided it was not needed.

If I am not mistaken that is a data point connect and the plug that seals it. My Edge comp uses that connection, but from the factory it is not connected to anything.

I would agree with both of the statements above That bearing does not deal with a lot of load and minimal time under any load. But I dont like the bearing in the @Dumb A picture. That one just seems prone to failure. I have had both a Valair and a South Ben in mine and they both came with a sealed ball bearing for the input shaft.

Have you spoken to @dieselautopowerabout this? They are stand up folks and if its their problem they should make good. I have set of their reman rv275's and the bodies have seen some use but they function as they should.

That was the case with my South Bend. That would explain it. I had pictured in my mind needle bearings like in a u joint cup. Dont think I would want to have the input shaft as the inner race.

IIRC 260 bar is right at the bottom range. I ran my oe injectors for well over 200k miles, probably closer to 250k. mine idled around 850 rpm. Lord only knows what the pop pressure on those were. But I never lost any fuel economy or power best I could tell. I put in a set of RV275's and the idle went back down to 800. Nice bump in power and picked up 1 mpg those. As I remember they should have been popped around 305 bar but never had them checked. They were new ones from Bosch. My last 2 sets were popped at 310 bar. I have never had any issues with any popped over 300 bar and several here are running 320 bar with no complaints.

My 02 does. says to use it on the reservoir cap.

Just be sure I am hearing you right, the bearings are rolling on the input shaft with no race? That sounds pretty strange to me. My South Bernd has a bearing, but it is a sealed bearing with inner and outer races. I would hate to stab a tranny and try to not knock a needle out of place. I have not had a pilot bearing failure, just a throw out bearing failure. My ECM failed at 240k and while I had it in a shop I had them replace the clutch. I figured after all those miles It had to be getting thin. I was surprised that it still had some life left in it but I feel I had gotten my moneys worth at that mileage.

Just to add from my experience with my truck. It has always idled around 805, per the tach. The only it has been higher was on higher mileage injectors, around 850 rpm. A new set has always brought it back to 805 or so. Though not all of these trucks act the same.