dripley

Yes it has. My oe steering gear has finally started leaking at the input seal. Figure the output is next. I would send it to Blue top for rebuild but cant park the for 2 or 3 weeks. Weighing my options for now. It does need a rebuid or replacement.

Did you have any trouble codes that were pointing to any issues?

plenty of room back here.

We seemed to have taken over your thread in your absence. We apologize for that. Hopefully @dieselautopowerwill be along soon. That was quick.

The one on my HX is getting weak also. Plus it has 525k on it and deserves a break. It has served me very well. One thing that helped that longevity was I only fed it air and not hose clamps.

Economics is what drove my decision.

I believe at the moment I would rather take the ride to get the sensor that put it in. Mine has 525k on it and I hope last until I retire.

These are very good signs of excess AC voltage. I have to agree with what @Dieselfuture says. Dont assume anything is good with out checking it. The trucks thrive on good clean DC voltage.

That has to be the solenoid for the cruise control. 02 and some 01 manual trucks do not have them. Cruise is all fly by wire.

That would be the one. I see it on mine. I understand the necessity for you get yours on. Fortunately I am not in a hurry except it would be nice to see how it works. I did notice how close the diaphragm was to the compressor but thought @Blueox01's photo was after he modified the bracket..

I had a Banks tuner on mine when I put RV's in. An Ottomind rated at 75 rwhp. The power increase from the rv's was still noticeable after install and I picked up 1 mpg gallon with them. 18.5 to 19.5 on pure highway runs. They were not smokey at all with that set up. I now have a Comp and they are a little smokey off idle but clear up pretty quick. I have run 32 to33 psi on that set up until recently it has dropped off but believe the waste actuator is getting old. I dont seem to have any boost leaks. At those levels studs are not necessary but not a bad thing to have if you are going larger in the future. I recently replaced my head gasket due to a leak on the right front corner of the head. I went back with the stock head bolts. Per Cummins they were still in spec. Not trying to talk out of the studs if you want them but the stock bolts will work at the power levels you are at now. I figured for myself if I decided to go bigger on power that I could add them later fairly easy. But as always do what makes you comfortable for the future.

I have run the NAPA in the past and the first one I bought they quoted me that high price and I rebelled on that a bit and they sold it to me for the "truckers price" which was about half of retail. Had to have that discussion the next and tired of having and went elsewhere. The Donaldson I have now I bought from Riff Raff diesel for about $40 delivered. After reading allof this and seeing a part # not mentioned I went to Donaldson's website. They dont recognize the part # B080171. Hmmmm?

@LorenS was the waste actuator rod on yours staked in the female threads? Mine appears to be but I have not taken it apart yet. Might be a while getting mine on so I dont want to scatter it out yet. I had the notion of shortening the rod and bracket to clear the oil filter but it might conflict with the air outlet on the compressor when looking at the photos @Blueox01 posted. Also looking a his photos it appears that the mounting bracket is a bit different. The holes for mounting the bracket are lower on ours. If it is maybe the the actuator will clear the filter. I am holding out a little hope for that.

I cant disagree with what @Mopar1972Man says about the RV275's but for an economical way to pick up a littel power and a touch of mileage they are good.

You will like them.

What year is your truck? When my OE failed it was like driving the Exxon Valdeze. Work kept getting in the way of fixing it. We have all had to do things not exactly the right way before. But I hate hearing about the starter. Starter $130 or so and an hour to put in on. And it fid not fix the problem.

Mine oe still works after almost 20 years. I am afraid to touch it.

Its Christmas in February.

Welcome to the farm.

She be cracked for sure.

I dealt with electrical gremlins for 3.5 years before changing the cables and then WT's ground mod. Plus a bad splice in the 5v sensor signal. I have been clean of them for about 3.5 years and now brake gremlins. It was good 3.5 years anyway.

Darn gremlins.

Me, I hope my son is working Saturday so I can use a bay at his place of work. No wind, heated and a concrete floor. I dont even have to bring all my tools.

My money is on Joe Dirt.

I dont think so. Have not hit anything unless it can just bend itself. Going to have to pull it apart again and put a kit in the calipers. I will have a better look at then, I rebuilt one of them a few years back. It was a fairly easy job. Took a scrubby to the pistons and freed them up. Just dont remeber which side I did. I put a rebuilt caliper on the other side a year or 2 earlier. The brakes were and are still working ok but I am going to have go thru them both, something is not right. Pretty much what I am thinking. I will let yall know what I find.