dripley

I am the reverse of that. OE PCM but the oe ECM failed at 217k and change. I was able to procure a new back then so hopefully this one will out last me.

Spent most of my life in a stick so just more used to it. Though the SB clutch I have in it now begs to idle in neutral. As does my left leg.

That sir would be above my pay grade. 20 years in a 6 speed here. But I have always been under the impression that the ECM strives for 800 rpm for idle.

I dont know about load but the idle is about 55rpms low compared to the 800 it should idle at..

So @LorenSdo you like yours? We know @Dieselfuturelikes his. Loren our xmas presents are about to arrive!!!

When I had the calipers off the truck everything seemed to move just fine. The sliding parts were clean and shiny matter of fact. Cleaned them up what little they needed, greased them and reinstalled them. All was working fine before this so I did not think a caliper rebuild was in the cards. Maybe now they are and the kits are cheap as you say. Cant say that I followed any procedure other that drive the truck. Took a few applications to the pedal in the parking lot to take up the slack from pushing the pistons in to allow me to clear the rotor on install. Nothing different than I have done in the past. Not proper but just me. Might try that but just put a new set of tires on 1 week before the brake job. Out of all of that I did use High Temp grease made for the calipers in the small ketchup like packs from AA. I never had a set of pads wear in a wedge that was visible on inspection like these did. And yes the brakes were the only thing I touched.. And how about this. The Quad did not cause it. I guess because my Quad is still at @dieselautopower. Cant figure out why they have not sent it yet. Could a non payment or non ordering stop that from coming?

5 speed to 6 speed, 1st same on both, 2nd, 3rd and 4th on the 6 speed cover 3rd and 4th on the 5 speed, then 5th on the 5 speed is almost the same as 6th on the 6 speed. My current 5600 has 340k on it and needs to be refreshed. Pretty sure all is well with the hard parts. Heard good things about Cody and his 5600 rebuilds. Just wish he was closer.

How do you like the Super stick conversion? Was that just to get the bigger input shaft or something else? I need to get mine redone.

I have recently replaced my front brake pads. Someone let them go a bit to long and the right front got all the way thru the pad. Well anyway got some new pads and replaced them last week. I did notice some odd things, The first not so odd is the brakes pulled to the left as the pad wore thru to metal on the right side. I swapped in all the new pads and some spare rotors I had onto the truck. The left pads had worn uneven as in a wedge shape. One end was maybe 3/32 s fatter than the other and the same on the opposing pad. I have never had a set pads wear like that. After I had everything installed I took for a test spin. The pedal took a few applications to get a good response. The weird thing was now the steering wheel is a bit off to the left. The brakes also kept the left pull under medium to heavy braking but normal driving almost unnoticeable. The pull is disappearing each day but wheel is still off to the left about an Inch. The only thing that comes to my mind is maybe one of the pistons in the caliper is binding causing the uneven wear and the disappearing pull I am experiencing as pads wear in ?? The off center steering is a bit odd just for brake pad change. Never had this happen before. Any other ideas out there?

There should a sticker on the glove box door and it will tell what rear end you have in it along with some other info. Mine is pretty faded. You can buy the friction modifier at most any parts store. It its an open diff the modifier want do anything. It is for clutches in the limited slip diff.

A limited slip rear diff will make some noise while turning if the friction was not added on a fluid change, unless the oil came with it in it. Especially low speed tight turns. Big tire are harsh on the oe front ends. Get somebody to turn your wheel back forth while you get under and start looking at the tie rod ends and such. No movement is what your a looking for. O1's and 2's are harsh on ball joints in OE trim, larger tires even more so. We have had more than one person here go thru ball joints in 15 or 20k miles. Also check your u joints and carrier bearing on the rear drive shaft for any play. You have alot of exploring to do.

Really good stuff there Dan.

Very accessible with the cylinder head off too, just a bit more involved. But I did do mine when it was off a while back. Kidding aside, after my first went bad I decided then just to do mine whenever I was that far in. The gasket is cheap and easy to replace provided you are in there.

I would agree with @IBMobile. Hope they just dont want to throw parts at it.

This will help explain it but as usuall I cannot find the article to do the test. IIRC take you DVM and set it to milivolts and read + on the charge stud on the alt and the -on the case, engine running and accessories off. DVM needs to set at milivolts or be self ranging. You need to be .005 or below. 5 is borderline on the excessive side. I am sure someone will post the article and call me down if I am wrong.

I think Quadzilla has the market cornered on 20+ year old VP trucks for an adjustable tuner. Edge Smarty and a few others are out there but not adjustable for the most part. How is your truck for AC voltage? I know it is harsh on the oe electronics but dont know about the Quad.

Well I am running a Donaldson B080171. Not on that list so??? I also ran a K&N from 40k to about 225k.This is not to dispute anyone. Read into that what you want

I would say it could go either way on that. I only know what came on mine. But who knows what the did 5 years earlier.

Precisely why I started out cheap. Mine are not perfect but better than the were before. Plus they are 9004 bulbs.

You owned it since new?

I have to agree with esteemed colleagues on the above. If I read @Dieselfuture post right and you turn your pump on before starting that could be the hard start issue. Too much starting pressure for the VP. And as @IBMobile says a relay controlled by the ECM is the best way to go. Let the ECM do the work its paid to do.

Are you going to try and rotate the bulb just see what happens?

I need to correct my statement @Mopar1973Man. I stated that I had faith that you were blinding oncoming traffic. I meant to say you were NOT blinding on coming traffic. Sorry for the omission of the word. I have more faith in you than that my man.

Sorry for your loss my friend.

Mine came with group 27 from the factory. Did yours come with the 34's?