dripley

I have seen those pics more than once, but this is the first time I noticed how much smaller the dirty roll is. Is it smaller in diameter also?

Looks like the beavers are earning their keep as always. Good job. What do you reckon one of those loads weigh?

You have a little more info on this switch?

Wally world Super Tech. Approximately 1 oz per gallon every tank full. Learned about here and was convinced it was a good thing. I did run diesel kleen many years ago for a couple months and never saw or felt any improvement in any thing. The first time I put the 2 stroke in I noticed the engine was quieter, my family could not tell, but I could. That really convinced me it was working. As far as availability in Canada, I would not know.

Welcome. It is a great place to learn and share.

Can I help it yall have vivid imaginations?

Screaming beavers and Wood. Has nice ring to it no matter how you look at it.

I dont remember it being a BP,but it could have been. I was pissed at myself because I noticed the first time I bought fuel there and thought it was accident looking for a place to happen.

I love your optimism. Never hurts to find the good in a screw up. Lord knows i have had to do my share.

I ran across some green handled gas pumps in Tenn a while back. Just lucky i was filling one of my space heaters instead of the truck that day. The diesel handle was black.

Did you replace the connector between the blend door and the actuator motor? The motor has to be re indexed if it slipped in the old coupling or other wise got rotated out of place. If you did the heatertreater deal, it should have been in the instructions. The resister is near the blower motor on the bottom of the hvac box, drivers side of the blower. If you have a Haynes manual or a FSM(downloadable here)either will show you the exact location. The good news is you dont need to remove the hvac box to get to them. Both are accessible from underneath.

The blend door is operated by a small electric motor. did you reconnect it? There is a resistor in the hvac box near the blower motor. When it goes hi is all you get. Think I am right on high, mine did it when it went bad. Glad to hear you got it all back together.

I have had a blue chip pump on my truck for 65k and near 3 years. Spoke with Chip many times before I found this site. He tried to help me with my ECM problem. It crapped out the day before I was going to install the pump(VP). I spoke to him at length about who builds his pumps when Mike was putting the sticky together about pump builders. He does have a wealth of knowledge. The retention of said info is what I have a problem with. Appreciate the link.

i knew the more knowledgeable would do better job than I on that explanation. Thanks Mike.

I dont know the technical info nor would I even try give to you. I will leave that to the more knowledgeable. My understanding is more fuel delivered in a in a more efficient spray pattern allowing the fuel to burn better. This gives you more power and lets you use a lighter foot to cruise down the highway. And more fun when when you want to use the power. I saw about 1 mpg better with the RV's. went from the 18's to the 19's as long as I behaved my self. That is with the truck at 7500# and cruising around 70mph. I have seen the 20's on a few tanks.

I, like you, have been calculating mine the same as you forever. though not as technical as the scan gauge my mileage has remained fairly consistent over the years and is about all i need. But alas i broke down and bought one to look a other parameters with the engine and it is pretty neat what you can see with it. It also serves a code reader and you can clear them as well. I still have not calibrated it for the fuel mileage function. I guess I will one day just because it does it. Though filling at at the same pump every time is near impossible for me. Nothing wrong with being old fashioned. It still works and serve us well.

I dont know much about them other than a lot of people have done the swap, but i would think if everything is functioning properly that you would be good to go.

I have a Valair organic in mine and it is the same. another way I start is just let the clutch out quickly. The way it takes off takes a little getting used to though, but works very well. Not so well if you are towing.

Look on the door in the glove box. There should be a sticker listing the trans, diffs and such.

Is it possible your truck was an auto in the past? that might explain the codes.

I personally dont use any dope or tape on my brass to brass or brass to iron connections and they have always sealed just fine. just my .

He definitely has something extra there, either reducing the size of style of thread. Even so the brass on brass ought to be sealing with out any help. Both of the gauges i put on mine came set up for the compression nut to screw directly onto the gauge.

The compression nut on my gauge and the fittings we use at work would fit directly to the threads on the gauge. Are you saying you have 2 nuts, the compression nut and another one between the red and green circle?

I would be thinking something on the front of the engine and not the side. but leaking that much oil who knows.

So you are loosing oil at that rate and not seeing the oil level going up. When my oring went I was loosing oil but it was going up on the dip stick. Growing oil in other words. right now I am only loosing 1 quart about every 3k 0r 4k. Most of it is blowing back on the engine and running off the bellhousing.