dripley

My 02 had the resonator also. Definitely not a cat. It kind of looks like one though.

Mine was doing this a while back and it turned out to be the return line on the back of the head and the return tee that joins it to the vp return. They are both hard to see until they leak enough for you to see fuel on the ground. I replaced the sealing washers on the line at the head and the o rings in the tee. Anything that lets air into the fuel system will let the fuel drain back to the tank. I would think if you had a high pressure leak it would be fairly obvious due to the high pressure present.

Wait till you are 60. I cant remember to zip up my zipper anymore:doh:. No wait that happened at 50, now I cant remember what happened at 60. If I remember Ill let yall know.

The lift pump is just pumping what comes up the fuel line. Not sure if the pump can go bad and suck air on its own. If air is getting in some where prior to the pump its going to pump it into the vp. The fuel line is connected to the the top of the fuel basket at the top of the tank. That would be another place to check, and possibly something inside the fuel basket could be letting air in also. You can see the top of the fuel basket if you look over the frame rail near where the rear leaf springs attach to the frame(on my long bed). Something is letting air in and as Mr. DIESELPWR says air aint your friend. The reason I asked about type of pump is that i have heard of complaints of Air Dog quick connects leaking. I have them on mine and they seem to be fine. I have had a few instances of hard start that is cured if I cycle the pump once. It could be those fittings causing my issue. It has only happened a few times in the past couple of years and not bothersome enough to me for now.

I understood in your first post that the gas cap worked because of a release of pressure when you opened it. If so, when you shut your engine down the fuel system will be pressurized allowing fuel to flow from the drain valve. Normally there is no pressure in the system after engine shut down, the pressure bleeds off very quickly. As far as the causes MM listed above, I would to defer to the more knowledgeable.

If the op's fuel tank is pressurized, that might be where he is able to get air and fuel out of the drain valve after engine shut down.. Correct me if I am wrong, but the tank should not be pressurized.

Are these quick connect fittings? What kind of lift(p/u) pump do you have? If the suction side is leaking you probably wont see anything. The pump would be sucking air in and not pushing any fuel out to see.

I had an ECM rebuilt by one of the internet re builder's with the same issue. The light was on but the cruise did not work. does your's? I never found out why because the ECM crapped put several months later. I would think it would be a warranty issue with Cummins or who ever you purchase it from. As far as a re flash curing the issue, i would not know.

Mine too stayed very steady for 6 or 7 years, just a tick below 190 on the gauge. The only time I saw any changes was pulling the rv up a long grade, about a 10* increase, and in the winter in temps below 20* it was hard to keep the temp up with stop and go driving, on the highway it was stable.

They have tenure now and Jane Fonda would be proud of them. Careful with that hippie word now, I used to be one. We did not burn flags, we burnt other things. Never spit on vet either or had any use for anyone who did. My brother served a year in Kon Tum province Vietnam as a medic. Proud of him and glad he came back in one piece.

I just used middle of the range Wagner from Advance, metallic I think. - - - Updated - - - I just used middle of the range Wagner from Advance, metallic I think.

You are definitely not alone. gotta stretch them dollars/

correct me if I am wrong Mike, yours have alot of miles on them. I got a set rv's from DAP myself about 50k miles ago and the still work just fine.

I dont know about MR. Weed, but I remember seeing it on the news. The Vietnam war was still pretty fresh then. That was a flag that did not get burnt. We in this country can burn our flag, but that does not mean you have to stand back and watch. If you have the right to burn it I also feel you have the right to stop it. Just my opinion.

I use mine all the time also. Mine cuts out at 15 mph and does not engage until 30mph. Need to figure out a way to make it stay on down to 0 mph.

I still have mine and have changed one side of the wifey's truck. The cheater bar I had to used doing mine did not affect the threads at all. I rented too but kept it when I was done. I cant remember the brand name on the one I have. I would bet that China had something to do with the manufacture of it though.

When I opened my hvac box up there was all kinds of crud in the bottom of it. I suppose there was enough to allow any liquid to build up without getting to the drain and then leaking when it finds a place to leak out. I cant say thats what is happening but I could see it as a possibility.

I got one from Advance auto. They had 2, one small set and one large set. I got the larger set. It did everything but remove the lower ball joints. It came with alot of receiver cups, but none that would fit the angle the lower one was mounted in. I had to pound those out. My brother kept his gender that way, but his hand was tired of the shock he got while holding the pliers that held whatever it was we used against the ball joint while I swung the 3# hammer. I probably could have had some cut one of the cups to the proper angle, but we did it on the weekend. Here is the press I used http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_u-joint-removing-installing-tool-otc_17632014-p?searchTerm=ujoint+removal+press The only thing I dont see there is all of the accessories that come with it. At the price they are listing it ought to come with something more than what they are showing. The one I bought cost $150. It did a fine job of pressing the lowers in however, just not out. I have yet to try it on anything else other than ball joints.

It might only be the 01 and 02 manual that does not have the servo. My 02 does not have one. It is controlled by the ECM. An easy way to tell is when you set the cruise does the pedal move down or just look under the hood. My pedal stays all the way up when the cruise is set and the tps goes to 0%.

If you still have your old tstat you might try re installing it and see if it acts the same as the new one or as it did before you replaced it.

since you are a manual tranny you have no servo. The cruise is controlled by the ECM. If all the other controls are working i would think the coast switch is bad or become disconnected. The clock spring harnes could also be bad. Hopefully someone else knows how to test it. It should not be that hard to do. You have to remove the air bag from the steering wheel to get at it. The bolts holding it are on the back of the steering wheel. This is very important; DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERIES FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES PRIOR TO REMOVING ANY AIR BAG TO ALLOW THE CAPACITORS TO DISCHARGE. You need to read about that one in the FSM.

I saw this and the engine block on How It's Made on the tv. A lot of cool stuf on that program.

I believe mine is in the wiring. hope so anyway. To the OP, mine is swinging wildly low and not high. I also am reading with a Scan Gauge. My signal appears right at the sender, but both the dash and SC are getting the same fouled up signal thru the wiring harness.

Are you referring to me as the .01%? Yours truly, thick skull