dripley

The DDRP was probably using the stock fuel lines and causing the large pressure drop. The lines are too restrictive. There is possibly a port on top of the the fuel canister you could hook a test gauge to. My 02 does not but the earlier years do I think someone else would have to verify that. Come to think of it that want work since you have by passed the canister. The AD's seem to come set from the factory at 15 to 20 psi. I would get it on as soon as you can for the piece of mind. I drove mine for a couple months before i put mine on. I did put a test gauge on it after install.

Were the others oe carters and intank pumps?

I would think that anyone who carries the over flow would have the sealing washers used on it. If you just want to check out the operation of the valve you shoul be able to reuse the old ones and replace them later if they have gotten hard.

You need toget it on as soon as you can. Unless the pump came set from the factory at some cray high or low pressure you should be ok for a few days. If any damge has been done the old pump has already done that and the fass want reverse this. The only other suggestion is to put a test gauge on it and see what you have. You have to have a port some where to attach a test gauge. I am not sure what you have after a fass install to do that though.

I am not sure the overflow would cause hard starting unless it was letting all the fuel by and not letting the pump have any fuel to run the engine. It is fairly easy to to test.http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps. Ibelieve they are pretty cheap and easy to replace. Is this your oe VP? If so it has had a long life ont the oe lift pump system. How many oe lift pumps have you had? Nice to see the signature.

"super" is spelled wrong.

The only time you experiance the hard starting is if you bump the starter and and try to start it while tha pump is running. If thats true just dont bump the starter. Get in turn the key and start it. The only time I use the lift pump for that 25 second run is to reprime the fuel system after changing filters, servicing the fuel system, or any time I have to open the fuel system for any reason. Another thing to try would be to turn your pressure down and see if that makes a differance. The ADII has a pressure regulater on it. It should be at the return line on the frame of the the pump. It is a nut with a threaded shaft and a slot in it for adjustment. Loosen the nut and turn the screw until the pressure lowers and them tighten the lock nut. If this is your oe VP it is likely it is on the way out from way to low of pressure from the oe lift pump for so long. I would not think your injectors are bad since the engine is running good while it is running. Try filling out your signature again.

Glad to hear she is ok.

You can use a tapped tee and splice it into your fuel line or get a 90* fitting that has a fuel line tap on it. Vulcan performance.com would have anything you want to do it with. I used a tapped tee in the fuel line befor the vp. The important thing is to isolate the sender from the water hammer effect of the vp pumping. Alot of us use a needle valve where ever we make the tap and barely crack it open for isolation. It works very well. I cant seem to attach anything to show you what I am talking about. Maybe Mike will come along and help with that.

He does say 15 but a little further down he says he is seeing 10 psi while cranking. thats why I asked what he is seeing while cranking and it not starting. I dont think it is the AD and i might very sell be the vp is gone. I know to much pressure to the vp can cause hard starting, however I dont know the threshold is for that to happen. I dont believe i have ever bumped the starter in mine and then cranked it while the pump was running. I normally just get in and crank it up unless it is real cold. Might have to do that just to see if my cranking pressure remains high. The ecm should lower the pressure for cranking. I just went out and started mine with the pump running and the pressure dropped of quickly until the engine caught, about a half a second.

What was wrong with it?

When you bump the atarter and then try to crank it while the pump is running what does your fuel pressure read?

it sounds like everything is normal. You are running about the same presures I am. Mine usually cranks in the first second or less.

You cnat beat that for help.

I dont see why you could not use the raptors fuel lines as long as you can adapt to them. Is your raptor tied into the oe harness to trip the relay? If there is something wrong there you can connect power from a swithced power source to get you rolling again untill you have time to check it out properly. You coud apply 12v to the pump and see if it runs. Blown fuse maybe.

Ehat pressure are you seeing when it is just cranking and cranking? Here is the sequence you should see if you are connected thru the ecm. Key on(no start) the pump should prime briefly up to 2 seconds. the pressure should bleed off quickly after prime.Key on, bump starte(no start), the pump should run for about 25 seconds. when it stops the pressure bleeds of quickly.Key to startposition(engined cranking) the pressure shoulb be around 10 to 12 psi. This depends on the pressure the pump is set at. the ecm runs the pump at half cycle to lower the pressure for cranking. If the your pump opperates much differantly than that let us know.

We dodged the bulk of it here in Columbia tn. The worst passed north and south of us. A little rain and hail and wind and that was about it.

Are you sure you reconnected the wiring to the airbag?

welcome from NC

I believe JL is talking about the 05 and not the 01.

I took the curly nylon hose and hung it from a rafter with a big master pad lock on the other end for a day and it straightened it out very nicely.

Hex, you dont have to change yours if it is working good for you. I have mine connected the way I wanted it. If yours is working good for you leave it. As long as you are getting accurate readings so be it. Not all of us do things the same way here. Thats part of the beauty of this site. Lots of good info to work with. It is up to you to put it to use the way you see fit. I like mine the way it is, but other folks see it differant. No big deal.Just for my education, what is a cage protector? same thing as an isolator?

$0.33 when i started dirving. I dont even know what diesel cost then. we are going to end up paying whatever any one thinks we will. The week dollar doesnot help at all. Speculators prbably have the price driven about near 20%. Iran is making enough noise to drive it wher it is going right now. Anyone rember the early 70's and the arab oil embargo? Even and odd days to buy gas. All a man mde shortage. The writing was on the wall then and we still dont have any energy policy here or elsewhere unless you happen to be selling the stuff. Demand is much greater today but I have yet to see the shortage that is supposedly driving the cost up. We export diesel by the boat load because over seas markets produce more profit. I gotta stop it is pissing me off.

Mine is installed with the needlevalve straight to the gauge in my 3 pod mount. I drilled a very small hole in the low point in the pod with the gauge so if it were to start leaking I could see a drip before it ran down behind the dash. It worked great since I did have a leak right after install.

Nice looking trailer AH. It does look good on the Dodge.