dripley

The engine shoud throttle up when letting clutch out. It is the anti stall feature in the ECM. When the engine starts dropping below idle rpm it adds fuel. The truck should tend to lunge forward some the quicker you let the clutch out. Every once in a while mine wont do it but very seldom as in once in a month or more. If yours has stopped doing completely I would think it is an ecm problem but dont know that for sure.

Afraid thats all me and this tablet. I despise typing on it. Sometimes l dont proof read.

There is at least one thread on here about hooking up 4th gen mirrors up to our 2nd gens. It can be done but I dont know how.

Are you having any luck with wiring the pump?

Exhayst brake is yhe way to go. The LED bulbs in the stock style houseing are most likely going to piss off everyone coming at you. I have some in aftermarket housings that are working pretty well. Clear lenses with much less reflector behind them. Another member here tried the same thing with a similar lense and different bulbs abd it did not work. Not all lenses or bulbs are the same. Put them in turn them on and walk about 75 feet in front of the truck and look at them. If they are blinding you they will blind everone else.

Hadvthe saeprobem with my tablet. Had to deletee the cookies to get it to work. It is in the link @dave110 posted.

Does sound like the heater core. When started I did not get any fog on the glass but would little whiffs of coolant. It is leaking the coolant would run outof the HVAC box thru the drain in the fire wall. It shouldn't touch the floor of the truck unless the case is cracked.

Its looking Greg. I hope to be doing some R and R on mine after retirement to bring her back to looking good again.

I have tried to find a wiring diagram somewhere for that harness. I even dug for the one I had but came up empty. The only things I can recognize in pictures is this. The fused wire is for 12v power and there should be a ground for that. The orange wire with maybe a white tracer I believe should go the fuel basket for the fuel level sender. The gray connector should go to the oe pigtail for the block mounted pump. What I cant see is the other 2 wires and connector that should go to the fuel basket, Orange wire included. Boggles my mind why a wiring diagram is so hard to find on something that was so common for a while. @IBMobile dont you have one hiding in a draw somewhere?

Forgot where I put my pen.

Have you asked the seller of the harness for a wiring diagram? The harness looks very much like the one l had on mine but l did not install it. I just removed it.

Since we stepped up from the Saturn we had a small dilemma getting the 2 short women in it comfortably. So here is yhe first mod yo it. Before. Mounting hardware and the runnibg boards are pretty substantial and easy to install. The after product. Nice 5" wide step for the ladies. And they look good on the car. About 3 hours to install. $340 to the door.

Got to love the aging process. Just today, and many others, l walk from the driveway to my little shop for something, get there and cant remember what l was after. Have to walk back to the truck to remeber what it was

I believe better of with the standard and the quad. Pretty sure you can do most anything the hot rod pump does using the quad. But lets see what others more knowledgeable have to say.

The pointy end really with getting them in connector. I believe pins have pointy ends too. They are at about any sewing supply place. The wifes version of the auto parts store.

I use straight pins for back probing connectors. You can get them with plastic balls on the blunt end so there is no metsl to metal contact with each other. They are a lot easier to get into the connector too.

It has surprised me some of the oe things that are still on my truck.

I am blessed. Still have the oe at 500k. But it seems to have an on again and off again leak. Mostly off. Had to fill about 3 months ago and then again a month later but now 2 months after that I have not added anymore. The only time I have touched that pump is when I resealed the vacuum pump a couple years back. I took it off the vacuum before removing the vacuum pump and never opened it up.

I guess I need to know about whats going on with the truck. If it idles you have a fuel supply. The lift pump, your in tank pump, has nothing to do with the engine reving up. It only supplies fuel to the injection pump, the VP44. The computers and the APPS control engine rpm and fuel. The VP44 is capable of pulling its own fuel but it is not good for it. I have had 2 instances of lift pump failure and the truck would still drive with a dead lift pump. Is your lift pump running? 1. At key on it should run for about one second. 2. Bump the starter, no engine start, it should for 20+ seconds 3. Start the engine and itnshould run continuously. 1 and 3 are going to be to hard hear. 1 being a short burst and 3 hearing it over the engine running. 2 you should be able hear it with your ear close to the tank. This is another reason to have pressure gauge. You can see it working. How is your in tank pump wired? The harness you linked is almost necessary to run the pump. Though you can tap into the factory pig tail for the block mounted pump and extend it back to the in tank pump to run it. As I mention earlier the harness will take the load off of the ECM which is a better set up. Do you know what other codes may be present besides the APPS codes? You mention a reman ECM. I have to assume that you have had ECM issues. Which one is in the truck now?

The ground for the ECM is internal to the ECM and not the bolts that mount it to the block. That ground is one of the grounds in WT"s ground mod. The additional ground between the batteries is a good idea and is part of WT's ground mod. I have one on my truck.

Did you disconnect your APPS sensor per chance? Have you scanned the truck for trouble codes? The truck will only idle with the APPS disconnected but should have tripped the CEL.

Also check for trouble codes. They are helpful even if they dont point to something specific. Not all codes set the CEL either. Then again not all problems set a trouble code.

The only way I found out the in tank was failing was to take it to shop and have them diagnose mine. The fuel pressure was near 0 psi with full throttle. Not good. I did at that time add a booster pump from BD diesel on the frame rails to mine and did help. I ran it that way for 3 or 4 years until I replaced with an Ait Dog system with exterior filters. The screens on the in tank pump are good for the pump but if they clog now you have to remove the the bed or drop the tank to clean them. Not very appetizing for a clogged filter. Good fuel pressure is a must for the VP engine. Hence why most all of us here run a fuel pressure gauge so we can keep track of the pressure. The wiring harness will not help a failing pump but will be kinder to the ECM by getting the electrical load off of it. There is a test port on the fuel inlet on the VP you can put test gauge on to see what the pressure is. What symptoms does your have of a problem?

Dieseldon I have owned mine since 2001, the only problem I had for the first 217k was a blown VP at 75k. Then my ECM failed at 217k. That was a bad tine for me and the truck sat in garage while I tried to figure it out for 2.5 months. Could not find much with that repair. Thru that process I found this forum. While I had finally just put a rebuilt ECM on the truck the help I have received has saved me a ton of money and made the truck as reliable as it was the first 200k. One advantage of that is upgrading weak systems with better after market systems over the span of 10 years and spreading the cost out. Had I had to done these over the period of a year it would suck.

Well I ended up with one when my factory block pump failed. Worked for a year or so and the pressure started failing. They just are not good on a VP truck. It was at one Dodge's go to pump but they suck. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?