kzimmer

I'd like to chime in as one of the fellas in the great white north. A lot of us, especially in the prairie provinces, are kind of caught between metric and imperial for some things. I use a little bit of both. KM/H would be awesome, however ECT, Boost, EGT I would always keep in Imperial. So one switch that changes all units at the same time for me wouldn't be feasible for me personally. I'm not sure how everyone else feels though.

Awesome, thank you for doing this. Much appreciated. After work today I'm tackling Tappet cover gasket, front crank seal, front cover gasket, vacuum pump seal, and VP44 Oring. Will be nice to keep some of the oil in the crank case. If I finish all that tonight (wishful thinking) I will try this out tomorrow after work, and I'll keep you posted. -Kole

I wonder if changing that call would require access to the mediarw permission group?

Nice! I would be extremely grateful.

That reminds me, I should put my SD card back in. One other thing, this particular OS is kind of strange. There are at least two internal "drives" in the unit. Maybe even 3, I need to double check. I wonder if it's trying to put the files inside a directory of one of the drives that are reserved for OS or OEM use. I wish I could follow along to debug somehow and see what's hanging.

Maybe it's android OS dependent. I'm running 4.4.4 Kitkat.

The pictures aren't coming up for me, does anybody have these stored somewhere?

The thing that bugs me is that it seems to be common for these diodes to be failing short (closed). The only thing I know of that causes a diode to short circuit is a transient voltage spike. Maybe these things should have Varistors before the rectifier to suppress the transient voltage spikes. I'm also willing to bet that a lot of the ac ripple noise is the dc filter cap open circuiting as well though. A few months ago I had all 6 diodes on a 480 volt 3 phase bridge rectifier short on a brand new piece of equipment. It was almost unheard of and we never tracked down the problem. It got blamed on factory defects on the diodes. -Kole

I've had this same problem since day one. I often only have one single Bluetooth device. Some days it's fine. Other days (more often then not) I'll shut off the truck for a minute, get out and do something, get back in, and it won't connect. Sometimes in the morning or after work it randomly won't connect. Sometimes killing the app works. Sometimes turning the key off and rebooting android device helps. More often than not I'm left swearing at it and it takes multiple times to get it working. The odd time I'll leave it and drive for 5-10 minutes and it'll come back. In extreme cases, I have to unplug the Quad and plug back in.

Yeah it would be tough to have a one size fits all base tune to make everyone happy. I would say this is damn close. I also just verified your findings by changing to a different tune, altered canbus fuel. No lope. Good catch.

Interesting. The only thing that bugs me is that i'm almost positive 2.5.1 didn't do this. I'm guessing this has to do with the off-idle handoff changes. Can you add a hysteresis? IE Quad takes over at 950, gives up at 850. Or gives up if TPS < 1%. I'm a big fan of hystereses in stuff like this, helps make things smooooooth. The possibilities are endless, too bad free time isn't, haha. 2.5.4 from the download section is smooth as hell if i skip right to 7% + tps, and I really like it. Let me know if you need me to try anything. -Kole

@Quadzilla Power I spent about 5 hours on this today and i'm frustrated. Are you sure it's File.createTempFile ? I tore apart the APK today and couldn't find any reference to this. I noticed today that I can't export tunes either. Same thing, "Export Failed". Does that give any clues? I can import fine. I thought I remembered exporting working, but I guess not. I also tried modifying AndroidManifest.xml and adding every permission under the sun. No dice. My head hurts. The only cure for this is being able to back up my tunes and do some data logging. And more cowbell.

Definitely when boost shows 0 for me. Tried this one. Still does it. 2-4% TPS, 930-980 rpm.

I forced warmup mode on by setting it to 180. I was running at 165. I would say it was 95% gone. Like I had to really try to listen and feel for a lope, and the 5% that I thought was left may have just been my imagination.

Here's my post in the other thread for reference: " Hey guys, I am having a small issue with the newest v2 standard fuel update. If I am stopped, in neutral (or park, it's an auto), and give it 2-4% throttle and hold it there, the truck lopes badly. It'll also do this in drive with around 4-6% throttle. It makes parking lot cruising tough. Very repeatable, does it every time. " I'm the same as Mike. Moved the RPM and TPS of the problem up. 2-3% throttle before, now 3-4% throttle. Cleaned up by 1000rpm before, now cleans up by 1030. Side note: Aside from this small issue, I am loving how this tune runs. I also really liked the smoothing factors you added. I hope those get put back in when this is resolved.

Sorry Nick/Mike, I didn't see the other post. Stops at pretty much exactly 1000rpm. Gets a little better by 960, gone by 1000.

@Me78569 Hey guys, I am having a small issue with the newest v2 standard fuel update. If I am stopped, in neutral (or park, it's an auto), and give it 2-4% throttle and hold it there, the truck lopes badly. It'll also do this in drive with around 4-6% throttle. It makes parking lot cruising tough. Very repeatable, does it every time. Here's a video at idle. You can actually see my phone start to shake.20170828_100303.mp4

I haven't had much time to play, busy summer. All I can say for sure is my samsung smart phones work great, and my android head unit does not. -Kole

Excellent, thank you very much. -Kole

In case you're keeping score, I flashed yet another 4.4.4 OS and iQuad can see the device again, back to normal, but still failed to export.

That may be... But I'm yet to see a piggyback programmer cause truck-wide electrical issues, shut a radio/trailer brake controller off, etc. But who knows, I'm excited to see where this goes, haha. Good luck Arod.

Quad can't cause your radio to lose power... But I wouldn't plug it back in until your issues are resolved. You said you had a code for high voltage? Check DC voltage while the truck is running. If it's high, don't run it, the previous owner of my truck ran it with a bum voltage regulator (possibly internal to PCM, someone else can verify this) and it fried.... Everything. Window motor, power seat motors (all of them!), bulbs... Not sure about VP44/PCM/ECM I just replaced what was still broken when I bought it.

So I decided I would spend a few hours playing around tonight, wiped the device, replaced OS 4.4.4 with a completely different 5.1.1 (which is much nicer btw). Still failed to export...and actually introduced another problem. The Bluetooth on the device is working, shows the quad connected, my phone is connected, all is good. But the iQuad app doesn't see any connected devices. Doesn't make much sense since Bluetooth is working. I'm thinking there must be some incompatibility with the RK3188 processor. @Quadzilla Power, I could really use some support here. I'm more than frustrated.

I had a shop in town do it with the DRB 3 tool or whatever it's called. I think it cost me 0.5H labor.

Haha, nah, it didn't work in V1 either. You're off the hook! I asked Quadzilla about this a long time ago, and like all of my other tech support questions, the answer was "?????????". Happy I found this place! Thanks again for taking care of business!