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Any codes? @Mopar1973Man do you think this has anything to do with the idle validation cct in the APPS? Also Mike when your vp went were you idling high or low, can't remember.

I'll take things a Dodge guy will never say for 400 Alex.

Or do what I did an find a 2001 with 370,000 KMS (not miles) in rough *** shape, for $1900 CAD, and proceed to dump $10-12k CAD turning it into some kind of MONSTER. lol

Good call. I had to google that, I thought it was a D80. I just saw it was bigger than my D70 and ***-u-me took over, haha.

IMO any tandem axle trailer should be towed with a brake controller. My dad has a 2005 Ram 2500 Diesel with the Dana 80 and air bags. His 5th was well over 13K loaded and pulled like a dream. And he gets better mileage towing that than I get towing mine at under 6,000 lb loaded. His truck is legal to pull a little over 20k lbs as certified by our local standards. I wouldn't be afraid of towing well over 10k with a 2500, but one could probably make the argument that a dana 80 would be better suited than the 70.

You and me both... Might have to put it on the backup card so the wife doesn't see it... Maybe I can put dyno time on layaway... Lol. I think every truck will have a different base, or starting point, due to injector sizes, pop pressure, etc. However I don't think the ideal curve of each truck will stray too far.

I am really considering ponying up the $125 CAD/HR on some steady state dyno tuning for timing. Here's what I had in mind. Set dyno to 20% load. lock up 3rd gear and set the cruise at 1500rpm. Vary timing all over the place, log data. Repeat at 20% load steps until the truck can't handle it or the dyno can't handle it. Repeat above steps at 2000, 2500, and 3000 rpm. Log everything and build a tune later that gets timing where it needs to be to produce lowest engine load at any given situation. In my mind this would be a timing curve that would be the best for daily driving, towing, racing, etc. The timing settings that make the engine do the least amount of work for any measured amount of physical demand is aces in my books. Unless of course the ideal timing ends up being so high it's dangerous. Thoughts? Do you think I could accomplish this in 3 hours on the rollers? I think this data would really help understand where the sweet spots are on our trucks.

Is there any way to temp wire in a cheapo tachometer straight to the sensor to rule it out?

As far as I've noticed it works pretty much perfect if there's no upshift. It's only the 3rd to OD where boost drops.

Sure, next time I get the truck on the highway I'll hook my phone up and try to get a log.

Hey guys, So I've been using a boost Defuel setting of 50psi. Works great. No matter what tune I run, boost ramps up quickly and sits about a needle width below 50 on my gauge, and 48psi on the quad. Beautiful. Now that's where it stays until the 47re shifts from 3rd to OD. Canbus fuel must be clamped to a certain # in 3rd, and when OD takes over, rpms are much much lower (.69:1 instead of 1:1 gear ratio), so I've lost that much fuel. Boost drops significantly at this point. I haven't datalogged but I believe I'm losing more than 10 psi in overdrive. The only option I have is to let off the go fast pedal and get back on it. Any ideas?

Any EGT limits set?

I've had this in the back of my mind, I'm happy you are doing this. I'm curious how far we can go with this, how much stress it will put on the pump, how it will affect final timing, and cold starts. And obviously how it will affect atomization and economy.

Sounds awesome, I look forward to trying it out.

What does your truck sound like at 25°? Must be rattling pretty good?

I extremely dislike when I see tow mirrors out without a load. Hard to explain it, it just looks ridiculous. Exception of course when in between tows for a short duration, like putsing around the campground. But I'm still not going to vandalize someone's vehicle. There's never an excuse for that. It doesn't have anything to do with the generation either. There are shitty punk vandals in every generation. Remember hood ornaments? Likely one of the reasons they don't exist anymore. Ok... Now I kinda want a ram hood ornament for my truck.

I would probably go here next. Try to rule out ignition switch. Or clutch switch if it's a manual. If it's an auto throw it in neutral and try.

Gotcha. I know you said you replaced the batteries, but it still might be worth putting them on a load tester. The whole thing doesn't make a lot of sense. I could give a billion guesses but the part with the battery charger has me a little confused, especially since the 12.8 volt charge. I would disconnect one of the batteries and check the voltage again after a few minutes. The batteries, while both connected, will measure the same since they are connected in parallel. In theory, one bad battery could cause similar symptoms.

How did you check the relay?

So while on the topic of valve lash, has anyone experimented with settings deviating from stock 0.010" / 0.020"? Results? @Mopar1973Man, do you know which valves were too tight, and how tight? I'm just curious if there's any experience out there with different settings. I'm sure I've read in the past people using different lashes and claiming some sort of gain.

I think the only uncontrollable source of error would be related to pump health and injector health. A wearing injector could change the amount of fuel actually being injected. Same with a weak pump. However, these things don't change overnight, and that's why you'll have the offset % adjustment. Any truck should be able to be offset to be close.

Gotcha. Interesting.

What is the boost offset used for? I think I missed that part.

This is cool, I like this.

Yeah just a manual adjustment would be fine with some guess and check. That's the trouble with an open loop fueling system. Ok, now find me a way to load the truck up to 25% on jack stands so I can do some tuning, lol.