kzimmer

Mine does that too. It's a bit buggy. Disable antivirus (seems like a lot of major antivirus programs think the update program is a virus), click update, and then plug it in. It's the only way mine will connect, it sort of "locks in" the connection for me.

My mistake, I missed the gallon trip setting.

Any tips for calibrating the MPG gauge?

I know you can get a splitter for the OBD2 plug but I'm not sure if that helps you.

Did you just crack one line? I would crack 3, 4 and 5, crank for about 30 seconds, after seeing fuel on all three close back up and crank to see if it'll start. That's what I do when re priming. Still likely a different issue causing air but might rule out other problems.

That's a lot of oil for just a bad gasket. Especially if it went from no oil leak to old faithful overnight. I'm sorry I don't have anything helpful to add, I'm just a little confused.

Holy blowby batman. Is your crank case vent plugged?

That 3.2/3.3 you are seeing us a user rating out of 5 stars. I think the app store version is .39, the one on this site is .40(56).

I would use the one from this site.

Funny you mention that. Because I'm using an android head unit, it's still wired from factory and I lose power during cranking. So i've never seen starting data.

The p pump trucks cold-start better with retarded timing don't they? Starting gets worse with more advance? Could explain our situation.

@IBMobile I really like that idea. If I keep my automatic I just might do this. I have a plethora of relays kicking around, haha.

For some reason it seems to start better. My pops were pretty unbalanced before though, at anywhere from 285 to 315 bar. Thanks Wilkinson Diesel in Regina, SK. Before, I noticed some stumbling, although it always started OK. Now, it still starts great, and has less white smoke during warmup. There seems to be one quick stumble at first fire, which I think is normal, and then everything is smooth. It hasn't gotten colder than about -10°C yet, so I guess we'll see what -25° is like. I am going to buy a shim kit from DAP and possibly some new nozzles if I can work up the courage to click the button lol. And then I'm thinking of pushing a little higher than 340 bar. Maybe 360. I only have seat of pants, nothing recorded. But I do know that I *see* less smoke from 0 - 8 psi or so, and I've upped my canbus starting point by 3% so far. So is it atomizing better and is acting more efficient, or am I just netting less fuel because of the higher pop? Or is it the effect on retarding timing? So many questions, so little time.

I've been struggling with connection issues again lately. Can't seem to nail down that problem, it'll be fine for a week, and then take 10-20 tries every day for a week. The fuse tap seems loose and flakey so I'm going to replace it with something more solid, however when I can't connect the quad is still controlling fuelling so I don't know if that's the problem. -Kole

When you unplugged the quad, it defaulted to level 0. Level 0 used to always revert to high idle, even when warm. I think @Me78569 decided to keep this feature enabled. Bump back up to your normal operating level and hopefully this resolves the issue.

@Me78569 You just blew my mind lol. If we do the OEM + adjustment method, this is allowing IAT and all other OEM factors back into timing, correct? Completely level 0 timing + offset?

That was happening on my Galaxy S7 as well. Reinstalled. All good.

Flashed it. I like it. I have to try really hard to feel that 1000rpm lull, and then it's gone. Can't even make it come back unless I drop to 0% TPS and start again. That's at a 0 psi canbus setting of 70%. Can't force any kind of buck sputter spit lope or miss. I'll mail you a beer if you leave it like this lol.

1-2 upshift is purely mechanical. Dependent on shift lever position and throttle valve. Did you recently adjust TV? I am also under the impression that the 4wd indicator light comes from the central axle disconnect position but that one might be wrong.

I guess what I mean is when you, or I, or Mike step on it from a dead stop, the transition just doesn't matter. I'm thinking it's only light or zero throttle situations that cause problems. I like your idea of starting with 100% OEM fuel at 800 rpm or lower and ramping linearly to 0psi canbus setting at 1100 rpm. What if you added another dimension to this, 100% OEM fuel at 0% TPS and 0psi canbus setting at 100% TPS? The final fuel level would of course be a function of both variables. Does this make any sense?

What if you disable this function after a certain tps? Maybe 50%? I think these issues only occur under low throttle. Would remove risk of sun blackout I think.

I definitely understand the thought process, it's a bit of a reverse-ramp function and I think you're on to something. With the small injector guys there won't be much change, for big injector trucks the off-idle should be less rammy.

So with a 67% canbus fuel setpoint at 0psi, how will this function? When you say it starts at 100%, does this mean I'll get 100% of my 67% or 100% of stock? I are confuzzled. Either way I'm going to load this Saturday and put on a few miles before my night shift. Edit: I read it again and I understand. I'm just worried about smoke before 1100 rpm.

Sorry to hijack. Does anybody know if an ECM flash could convert a 2001 vacuum cruise to a DBW electronic cruise?

My bad.