kzimmer

It should be like having two millivolt meters in parallel, doesn't sound like a big deal, as long as the polarity is correct on both. However, having the second meter in the circuit might load the circuit a little bit, affecting both measurements. The other thing to consider is that the measuring device will more than likely use an amplifier to increase the millivolt signal to a level that is easier to measure. So if you have two devices with different amplifiers, possibly having different "common" sides of their respective amplifiers, and throw in the possibility of reversing polarity by accident, it's not hard to imagine the perfect storm where sensitive electronics could be destroyed. I'm really on the fence with this one. I want to see if it works, but I don't want to see you with any damaged equipment. The perfect device would be a millivolt repeater with two outputs. But $$. Not worth it.

It's not impossible but definitely not recommended. Depending on the device(s) that are connected to the thermocouple, it's possible that they will affect each other. Very easy to induce noise in this scenario, as it is a millivolt signal. Either way, always use thermocouple wire with proper shielding.

Lowest egt at the lowest canbus fuel at the lowest load %. Graph them and find the point where they all intersect. Just kidding... Kinda.

This is what I held as gospel for a while. But I started thinking, over advancing might show even lower EGT, but at the point where peak combustion is happening BTDC, putting more power against the rising piston than necessary. Less EGT, more heat soak in the piston that's not easily spotted, especially if the cooling system is up for the challenge. Now obviously if this is exaggerated enough it would likely sound like several dwarves are under your hood hammering on the side of your block.

Just a thought. If you throw some extra fuel at the 0-5 psi area, enough to get some soot out the back, do you see a different between smoke between no reduction and 5° reduction? I have noticed there seems to be a bit of a sweet spot where smoke is less with the same amount of WOT fuel. However it seems like too much reduction makes the smoke come back.

From a strictly efficiency standpoint, the best way I could imagine is to get on a steady state dyno, pick a load similar to real life, set the cruise at various RPM's and monitor canbus fuel level while adjusting timing. Repeat with every scenario you can think of and record. Lowest canbus at any given RPM and °BTDC wins the prize. I would say monitor EGT as well but lowest EGT isn't necessary 100% the best efficiency... Now that's obviously not feasible for most of us. Dynos are expensive. Need a steady source of load though...

I'm not sure if I have the ability to do that in KitKat. I did however use Root Explorer to find every instance of "quad" and give everything all permission levels. Also ran the "fix permissions" app. Also, I tried to install it as a system app tonight. For some reason it wouldn't launch, kept crashing.

$20 for an answer leading to the solution of my crappy android head unit failing to export data! Haha. /Endhijack

Is the coolant temp sensor close by there by chance? I remember something around that area on my truck, but I can't check it right now, the wife has it.

Did you boost the truck?

Everything happens instantly though. When I say smoothly increased from 950 to 1200 i mean for a 2 second period. I meant to compare that to the quad's high idle kicking in, which is an instant kick in RPM from 800 to 950.

Hey guys, I have warm up mode and high idle activated with a 90 second delay, until 140°F ECT. I want to verify intended functionality. Here's how mine works. After the 90 second delay, my tach jumps up to about 950 ish. After about 10 minutes, they smoothly increase to about 1200. Does this sound normal? I'm not sure if the two-stage RPM is intended or not. I would kind of prefer to see 1200 RPM instantly when it's cold out. -Kole

Above and beyond man.

Check out these two apps. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=imoblife.startupmanager https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autostart Life might be easier for you if you root your device, but the second one is supposed to work without root. I am curious as to what you dig up for trans temp info from canbus. I thought the available signal wasn't much more than an idiot light, but that's just an assumption. I think the gear indications are estimates based on RPM, Speed, gear ratio and tire size input. Mine have never been perfect but it's close now. The odd time my truck will decide it wants to do a different combination of 3rd, 3rd lockup, OD no lockup, etc so it's wrong more than it's right, just the nature of the beast. If this feature disappeared it wouldn't hurt my feelings. -Kole

That's the same problem as me, because of low canbus start. When the quad takes over rpms drop and quad releases control. When quad releases control rpms increase. Repeat.

Negative, all i see is the grey popup message "Failed to Export" on both Data Logging Export and Custom Tune Export.

I've gotten similar results. I was cruising at about 103 km/h on Friday evening. Flat prairie highway. I was running around 18.5° timing on level 3, flipped to level 0/1 and stock wanted around 12-12.5 degrees. On level 3, I was running about 3-4 psi boost, maybe 780ish° egt. Level 0/1 changed that to 840+° egt and 6 psi. I have been able to recreate this scenario quite a few times now, and it makes a lot of sense. I forgot to check what canbus fuel was doing but I know I saw engine load change a little.

That's what mine looked like last year. Would heat up like crazy while towing. Like an idiot, I decided to put in a 180° thermostat before I decided to pull the rad and check / clean it out. I think the truck would be happier around 190, but now it runs around 181-185 on the highway. Oh well.

Maybe a high resistance ground has caused you 4 failed alternators, haha. I kid I kid.

@Quadzilla Power I gave that APK a shot. Same problem. I also tried installing the app on the external SD card with no change. I wish I had a way to tell exactly what was holding it up, other than just getting the "Failed to Export" message. I wonder if an app exists to debug and step through code of another app?

I think you're sucking air in the supply line to the lift pump. I had a similar problem last November, turned a corner and stepped on it, RPM's way up, as soon as I let off the go pedal it died. No start. Towed it to my garage and scratched my head for a couple hours. Cracked injector lines 3, 4 and 5, bumped the starter to force lift pump to run for 30 seconds, cranked for 30 seconds, snugged up the injector lines, and all was well. This however does not explain the relation to engine temperature. Hopefully that's a coincidence. I now keep a 3/4 wrench in my truck at all times... haha.

I guess I forgot that not everyone has an Android head unit, haha.

This place is great for building intakes, but I had trouble with a couple of their silicone boots blowing to smithereens under pressure.They didn't like 40+ psi. To be fair, I used a silicone elbow and straight aluminum pieces instead of aluminum elbows and straight silicone couplers. My bad.

It's not on the gauge screen, but if you just click the custom tune menu, the current loaded tune is check-marked.