kzimmer

If you have your quad's fuel levels set over 100% at any given psi, I think your lie-o-meter will show you have consumed less fuel, when in reality you the quad is commanded more than the ECM asked for. Try driving on level 1 sub 100% and watch that number fall. Edit: Thinking about that some more, that might only be half right. Awaiting a correction. Lol. With larger than stock injectors, you are commanding less fuel, so the mpg number will appear to go up as well. One of the two things I said might be right. 50/50 odds. Hah.

Agreed. I don't mind taking a risk now and then for personal stuff, hobbies, etc. If I need something for work, business purposes, etc that's different.

When I had my 7x.014's set at 340 bar, cold starting definitely improved. However, it was never this cold. The extreme cold may have different effects, possibly even related to fuel viscosity. So around 5pm I got fed up. No ether in the garage. But I had some wd40. Now before I get lit on fire here, wd40 is a lot less violent than ether. I've also never used any kind of starting aid on this truck. Never needed it (another reason why I think it's directly related to pop pressuere). I removed the rubber hump hose from the intake elbow. Turned the key on first to let the grid heaters run so they wouldn't ignite the wd40. Gave two very small shots, and it woke up like it was summer. Frustrating day. But lessons learned. Fyi it's -28 c and going down to -31 tonight. Gross. Got the remote start remote sitting beside my night stand. The wife's not going to like this... Haha.

I agree, definitely the easiest answer. To be perfectly honest I didn't check, I have the quad out for battery boosting, and that's my only sensor. I dumped in a bottle of diesel fuel de-icer / de-gel / water removal stuff. I forget the brand. So... Still not firing. I pulled both my filters, no gelling or freezing. Made sure I had fuel coming into factory fuel filter housing when pump runs. Cracked #3,4,5 injector lines, got fuel. Hate to say it boys, but I'm leaning towards the 365 bar pop pressure contributing to this one. I definitely noticed harder cold starts when it wasn't this cold, and the temperature dived very quickly recently. Unless I lost my vp44 last night, which I highly doubt. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend, hah.

My batteries and connections and cables are great. Tons of cranking before I killed the batteries. I'm thinking it must be gelled or frozen, but I've never seen the water in fuel light go on. Could be my pre filter before the walbro I suppose. I can't remember if I out a water/fuel separator in or just a regular filter cartridge.

I got my pop tester and injector adapter off of eBay. Made in India. Nothing wrong with the adapter. The pop tester works, but it's junk. I had to retrofit a different pressure gauge on because it was out to lunch. Leaked like a bastard, but I got it reasonably sealed up. It serves it's purpose, but I'd like a better one. I'm still fighting with the seller to replace the "off-valve". But, it was reasonably cheap, so meh. You get what you pay for and I can set up my own injectors. I don't have the links right now, but I posted links a while ago where I got them from. Should be around. Don't have time now but I'll look later.

-27° C yesterday morning, and -28° C this morning. Without the wind. Both my diesels are dead, even after being plugged in. I hate winter.... Yesterday morning we weren't at home so the truck wasn't plugged in. The forecast was -18° over night and it got to -27°. Was pretty sure it was gelled up so I got some fuel de-icer, got a very long extension cord from the hotel staff, plugged in for an hour or so, and fired up alright. This morning, after being plugged in for hours, I can't seem to crank enough until I need to wait for the batteries to charge... Ugh.. My 2003 Jetta TDI has similar issues. Poured a little bit of de icer in that too just in case. Have to wait til the truck gets fired up to move the charger over to the car. Fun Christmas morning. I get fuel from the most reputable place around, and I'm sure they run winter fuel, I just don't know what strength. Anybody else on here get temps this cold? We are in an extreme cold warning right now. Still currently -27° C (-17° F). Luckily it's not too windy, only feels like a -40° wind chill lol. (FYI, -40°C = -40°F) Merry Christmas. Stay warm. -------------------------------------------------- One down, one to go... 20171225_121821.mp4

This might not be relevant, but I set my boost offset with key on, truck not running. So I get an offset based on true ambient air pressure.

Except it f'ing snowed last night, I need to wait for dry roads now.

Sweet! I'm going to hopefully do some logging and videos on my phone soon of the .013's @ 365 bar for @Me78569's thread, and then repop a little lower.

I'm running a 200° Stant 49212. Huge temperature swings. Gets a little better while you drive, but never great.

Start with this. This is the V2 bible. The Gospel according to Nick. 1psi fluctuation sounds ok to me. If you're worried about it you could probably put a snubber valve before the needle valve. I'll let someone else chime in or direct to another post about the beta app hosted on this site, V2 stable flash vs V2 beta flash, etc. Search around a little though, there's a plethora of information here.

So... Should we fuse the power wire that feeds the quad from the battery?

I'd rather make a solution to the problem. I just don't want to be the guinea pig lol.

Do you guys think that using a diode on each of the two power wires to the quad would help by eliminating the possibility of reverse power through the supply wires?

Extremely. Especially when a 0.15mm shim adds around 30 bar.

Ugh... Me too... I want to try, but spending is on hold for a while. The goal is to hit 50psi canbus only, no wiretap. The .013's can, and I'm very curious to know how the .012's would do.

Thank you for making this information readily available. Too many people try to keep this stuff a secret. We can all benefit from a little transparency.

I've noticed it pulls harder between about 2000-2600 rpm, even at part throttle. Smoke is significantly less with the 7x.013's. Spoolup his improved drastically. With the 7x.014's I started my tune from about 67% fuel ramping up to somewhere over 130. Pretty steep curve, a little doggish down low, pretty smokey when the boost first starts to come on. Now I'm at 79%, ramping to 146 ish, just a nice little haze that doesn't hang around long. I had to squeeze to get 20mpg highway out of the 14's, haven't had a good highway trip yet with the 13's. Just for reference, the 14's started at stock (ish) pop. Upped to 340 bar and started to see and feel some difference. Put the 13's in at 365 bar and that's where we are for now. I need more data before I repop. I really need to get my logs exporting on my Android head unit. I can use my phone too I suppose in a pinch. Just not as convenient.

For what it's worth, my 7x.014's got me 50-55 psi boost worth of WOT fuel, canbus only. I checked yesterday, and my new 7x.013's max out around 52psi. Basically the same amount of fuel up top, which was the goal. Could be because they're honed to flow more. Or maybe that's pretty much all the VP will flow at full canbus demand?

Cool! Now I just need to find a second set of 7x.013's to set them up lol.

I wish I had a second set of injector bodies for this purpose.

Highway mpg, 0-60 times, smoke output, spoolup times, sound of engine (like a percieved change in timing), EGT's at various scenarios (spoolup, idle, cruising, max boost), max boost without wiretap. The wife finally managed to stall it yesterday in the car wash lineup, driving over a chunk of ice.

I think this theory is sound.

I like that idea. I'm not happy with my install and this seems like a good option.