kzimmer

Hang in there Mike, and get well soon.

If it doesn't look like my original HY35, I wouldn't worry about it.... This was still fully functional when I replaced it BTW.

Check eBay, there's some cheap pop testers around. You'll also need the Cummins adapter. I bought one, I think from India. The gauge was crap, so I replaced it with one I sourced locally. It's cheap-ish and it works. I've re-popped my injectors a few times on the Cummins, and even in my VW TDI.

I'd say that's good news, you aren't actually building boost at idle due to some strange parasitic loss.

Cant remember load numbers as my truck hasn't ran since April, but I've never seen more than 1psi in park, and that was probably just the sensor being not zero'd out. What do you read for boost with key on and engine not running?

Maybe drop the pan and check for material? If a binding condition exists, there should be some junk in there by now.

Technically, it's safest for your truck to jump start someone with your engine NOT running, key off.

Because $$$. Tracking down criminals is not a profitable job.

A pair of tin snips mitigates this problem... Ask me how I know, haha. Don't cut the spring. If you are looking for more boost, assuming you have enough fuel and don't have any boost leaks or other problems, if anything you need MORE spring, not less spring. You could add a shim. But honestly, if your tightened all the way, then there's a boost leak or you don't haven't enough fuel. I'm glad that everyone is having good results with this, I was a little worried after posting that I would be the only one that liked it! Mine worked great until I snapped the input shaft on the 47RE. No plans to get the truck running again this year... I have a wedding to pay for. I won't be around here much for a while. The 2014 Hemi 1500 will get a little love... And the 2003 Jetta TDI will get just just enough love to keep moving. Can't complain with a 45mpg car that'll roast the tires I guess.

Yep

Nah I'm good. Nothing in particular. Cruise control was set, on a highway on-ramp.

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

It is now, lol.

Cool! I'm getting married in July, and taking 3 weeks off to go to Jasper and Banff. Campsites are booked. Slim pickings.

Sounds like fun, a little far for me to drive though! I've had my notice for a few months, but I just got mine out of winter storage last weekend.

I don't believe that will work on the map sensor but I'm not sure.

Measure DC voltage, not AC. You shouldn't have AC voltage anywhere. If you're seeing AC volts, that's cause for concern. If it's an el cheapo meter the spirratic AC volt reading might not be reliable anyway.

If you don't have any negative effects like stalling or hard cold-starting, I wouldn't be afraid to run 350. Just be aware that those are known side effects.

I had trouble getting consistent pressure numbers between the primary and secondary. This was shortly after I decided to ditch the gross external wastegate setup I had and just drill out the gate on the HX35. I'd step on it, they'd spool, and the longer boost was held, the more the ratio would change. Depending what I did, the gate would blow open too early, or too late. I had this laying around and decided to give it a try. It keeps the low pressure away from the gate reference while spooling so it doesn't open early, but still allows it to open fully when pressure overcomes the ball and spring. I think it helped hold the gate shut a little longer and not divert exhaust to the primary too early. I think where the boost elbow falls short is it regulates flow to the wastegate reference, not pressure. You can use one to make the gate open a little later, but eventually that pressure will catch up on the outlet side of the boost elbow. My experience will be a lot different than someone with a single, but I think either way it gives a good level of control. I'd like to see a video of the boost gauge on a single turbo WOT run before and after. I think the $5 controller will peak and hold a little better.

Once you read the articles and posts about custom tuning, you can build your own tune to smoke as little or as much as you like. As far as the lope thing goes... This isn't a 70's big block carbureted gas motor with a custom cam. Lope isn't a thing. At least not a proper thing. However I started my truck today after a -20° C day and it wasn't plugged in, and it loped a little. I could help you source some dry ice if you'd like to try to recreate this scenario... Since there aren't a ton of 1st world inhabitable places at this moment with this particular temperature.

Awesome! I was shitting bricks here afraid you wouldn't get the same one, or wouldn't come to the same conclusion. Either way, I guess we've spent more $ on less. Looks like it's working good though!

Don't bother with open office, this spreadsheet will only work in excel.

You could always test with another GPS if you're worried, but to my knowledge, there aren't many methods of land speed measurement that are more accurate than GPS. Even radar can come up short if the angle is not 100% perfect.

My pump went last month. It's frustrating as hell. No warning either, no limping home, just cruising, and then dead.

I never get to say this... Your truck went full retard. Lol. Sorry.