kzimmer

I did my own ground mod a couple years ago, no issues. Any older vehicle I have owned, I usually upgrade the grounds. I have to disagree with the ground fix smooth out shifting, unless you mean shift timing / back and forth shifting between 3rd/4th and lock/unlock. I'm mostly concerned about if my lockup will be too violent with my valve body set up for a single.

Haha, maybe so, but I like American whisky better than Canadian whisky! I'm gonna be honest. I left the plastic pieces on my tailgate. I decided to give it a shot to see what happened, could always strip it off and do it again. To my surprise it sealed up perfect and kept the detailed look. Just lost the color contrast I suppose. But... A bumper, being stepped on, I don't know...

Looks great, I'm planning on bedlining my bumpers as well. However, my whole truck is bedlined, haha.

Bahahaha, stupid right hand rule vs left hand rule. Basically, with the iron nut on your battery, it's just passing current (kind of, its actually just fastening the conductor to the lead post so it isn't really even conducting). There is no induction happening in the area. @trreed pretty much summed it up: I think of induction as a transformer with a primary winding, no iron core, and no secondary winding. So... basically just a coil of wire with current flowing through it. So you have all this magnetic flux being generated by current flowing through the coil/winding. This flux wants to go somewhere, it wants to find ferrous metal. It doesn't give a flux, it's going to find some iron. So introduce some iron in the neighborhood, and it's going to get heated. Even with the iron nearby that is the intended receiver of the flux/heat, some stray flux really wont give a flux and it'll find some other iron in the neighborhood... like a nut or hose clamp made of the wrong material.

Haha no worries here guys, sometimes I forget not everyone is serious 100% of the time! I just got home from work. Still in work mode. I'm on day 3 of 20. After 1 day off. Hang on, I'll finish up this glass of Jack on ice and get out of work mode. Be right back.

I disagree. I don't think it's loose at all. Look at the washer behind the nut, and the lug itself. Not glowing. Neither is the stud. Just the nut. This is induction my friend. Likely someone dropped/lost the brass or stainless but, and grabbed a replacement out of the bolt bin. Common rookie mistake. Source: I am an Electrical Engineering Technologist that works in steel mills, two of which have ERW induction welding and annealing. I have seen this condition. Obviously I can't be 100% without seeing the bigger picture, but this looks all too familiar.

I currently have a valve body that was "Professionally" rebuilt with a TransGo SK TFOD-Diesel shift kit. I had a single disk converter at the time. I understand that the shift kit has different procedures to follow whether you have a single or triple. I think this has to do with the size of hole drilled for the lockup circuit. Is there anything else? I'm swapping in a Goerend 17SS triple disk converter, and a billet input shaft. If I leave the valve body alone, what can I expect? Am I in danger of damaging something? Is lockup going to be violent, or will it be manageable? If I need to rectify this, what am I looking at? New separator plate? Plugging holes? I'd appreciate any personal knowledge of this thrown my way. @Dynamic is a busy man, but I'm sure he'll chime in if he gets some spare time.

"For everything else, there's MasterCard."

Could be in an area with extreme induction, like an induction welder or annealer. The rest of the nuts look like stainless, possibly brass. The one that's glowing red, someone replaced with a ferrous metal (like a grade 5 or grade 8 steel nut). The induction process creates heat in all ferrous metals within a certain radius. I've seen this more than once. Things are not always as they seem.

Sounds like it's de-fueling. What's your boost defuel and EGT defuel set at? Does it do this on level 3? Or 2?

There are a plethora of posts and articles that have literally every piece of information you could need to get a great start and get it very drivable without even testing. Read through the V2 tuning guide article, the V2 R&D thread, etc. So much info on here. Just put in the time to read it and soak it in.

Interesting find. One would think that increasing pop pressure would delay the start of the injection event, requiring an advancement. However, maybe the difference, or gap, between pop pressure and leak-down pressure becomes smaller. This might effectively "shorten" the time, (duration) it takes to inject x amount of fuel, ending the event early, requiring some retarding. Thoughts? To add, perhaps this start vs end of injection timing relationship changes based on the amount of fuel is being injected via the 0 - 4095 canbus message.

How the hell did the pieces make it through through the intercooler?

It sounds like the engine ran after until the 53 block cracked, so no permanent damage from the turbo blowing up? Edit: @Mad Bomber I didn't see that you replied until I clicked send.

I'm getting itchy to get the Cummins running again and get back to the budget mods... The transmission I'm building in my garage however... Is costing me slightly more than a budget mod. Goerend 17SS triple disk, BD flex plate, TCS products billet input shaft, Alto rebuild kit with red eagle power packs all around. After that hit... Back to budget upgrades. Speaking of budget, I found some great prices on upgraded valve springs and push rods. If there's any interest maybe I can dig up the info tomorrow.

I believe it was @kzimmer that found that... But no worries. No credit needed. Lol.

I have a family friend that cracked a 53 block in an RV with about 40,000 miles or so... But it had a cooling system failure on an long grade and overheated. I haven't read much about the 53 blocks, but from what I've heard, overheating the engine can lead to the cracking. That said, have you considered running a 180° thermostat to help keep the block in one piece? To me it would be cheap insurance.

It was -30°C (-22°F) this morning, plus a dirty wind chill on top of that to make it "feel" like -46°C. The cummins is still in pieces so I'm not driving it until spring, but the Jetta diesel started, painfully but it started. Smoked like a train, and knocked like crazy. If it wasn't plugged in with a coolant heater, there's no chance it would have ran.

The Duramax/Allison likely has heavy torque management between the direct and OD shift. Result is a smoother shift. The 2nd gen Cummins as far as I know does not cut power during the OD shift. 1:0 to .69:1 is a pretty rank drop in RPM, especially during high load conditions. Couple this with the fact that the converter doesn't fully unlock during the shift and it's rough. @dripley you of course would not feel this. Your left and right feet manage your torque during shifts.

I couldn't find the original, but here's a diagnostic chart for the 47RE: https://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197157#/topics/197157 Check "NO DRIVE RANGE (REVERSE OK) ". There are 7 possibilities there I think. To be honest, if you already know it's been abused, it might be wise to go through it and rebuild. Even if you manage to get it moving again, it's likely a bandaid that'll end up costing you more in the long run. There's a pretty good chance the trans will have to come out anyway, of course that's not definite yet, until you know more. But if it does have to come out, it's a good time for a rebuild, shift kit/VB upgrade, and a converter. Did the fella you bought it from attempt the shift kit by himself, and it quit working shortly after?

Can you elaborate on this? By voltage regulator, do you mean just a potentiometer (variable resistor) cut in series with the governor pressure sensor feedback to the PCM to limit voltage? When I put my trans back in I'm going to need to do something about this, so I'm curious.

Again... Heresay, and not personal experience. Of course people that rebuild turbos are going to tell you not to buy cheaper brand new turbos. Telling you otherwise would be bad for business, regardless if it's correct or not. I'm not saying that one should always take the cheapest path in life at every opportunity either, don't get me wrong. I just tend to take opinions with a grain of salt. Much like my opinion, of course you won't take it for its weight in gold, I'm a random person on the internet, haha. Trust no one!

I'm going to challenge this. Do you have any first hand experience that dictates a turbo off of eBay won't last? I'm not talking about a random internet forum post either. Yes I realize that the general online consensus seems to be that buying eBay turbochargers is a mistake... But who here has personal experience with this and can speak to reliability? Don't forget that a large chunk of purchase price with performance parts is based off of the brand name. Anyone that's researched push rods and valve springs for our engines will attest to this, and it doesn't stop there. You have to give a certain level of respect to the individuals that broke trail and performed countless hours of R&D to design these components... However at some point, guys like me get tired of being bent over and paying a premium for old technology with a slick brand name. All I'm saying is don't discount a product just because it doesn't say HOLSET (or any other popular name) in big bold letters.

Yeah this truck was a battered orphan when I found it. I rescued it. And it thanks me by breaking on a regular basis.

Yep. Carnage.