kzimmer

My truck is almost never unlocked in 4th. I've noticed a couple rare scenarios while slowing down on the highway to a slightly slower speed zone that it might unlock in 4th. That was like... Twice. Other than that, never.

Ditto. When I blew the turbo in my Jetta TDI into two halves, I couldn't even see the traffic behind me. Started to runaway, but thankfully couldn't build boost and I was able to jam it in 5th and hold the brake to shut it down. Good times...

I was thinking the same thing when I read your first post. I being water cooled would make a huge difference. I would not worry about EGT's much. It's important in diesels because the amount of fuel demanded when the vehicle is modified to flow more fuel, start to out match the amount of air available for combustion. With a gas engine, you are are running a pre-tuned Air/Fuel ratio, and I assume a factory tune, that will not allow you to get take the turbo outside of it's efficient range of operation.

I would run the corrected one, your timing was pretty low. For how easy it is, you could run both to start learning how the differences affect how the truck runs.

V2 tuning really requires a custom tuning approach to be fully successful. That's the premise behind it. If you post up your tune, and/or a data log of the issue, there's some very helpful people around here that would help you out. Make sure you've read the V2 tuning articles as well. Also, what is the build date (software update date) on the Adrenaline? Have you flashed the latest version?

Is your quad running V1 or V2 tuning? Either way, have you tried adjusting injection timing? I'd maybe start there, depending on your tune. I know when I used to run V1 tuning, mine would pop a bit up top with too much advance. It's hard to explain, but I actually thought it was a trans problem at first.

I have not, but I am definitely curious. I have ARP, and they weren't cheap. I'm not a big fan of paying big money for a big name. I know there's R&D involved, but still. Gouging is gouging. I look forward to hearing more about a competitor. Competition helps keep companies honest.

I've only been playing with smokers since last summer. Pulled pork shoulder, back ribs, pork loin, and turkey I seem to be pretty decent at. Need to expand my menu a little. Pork seems to be pretty forgiving, moreso than beef. I'm actually taking a one day class in May to try to learn some new tips. I have a 6 rack Bradley electric smoker and a Green Mountain Davy Crockett small pellet grill that has a carrying bag, I take it camping and use it at home as well.

Did you select a different vehicle type by chance?

I think that could affect acceleration, but at cruise state that situation you described sounds like a potential runaway situation. At cruise state it should be all good. I wish I had a better idea to contribute.

Glad you didn't just 'wing it'. Sorry I had to join in.

The computer doesn't control air/fuel mixture like it would on a gas engine. Just amount of fuel. Adds more fuel when more power is demanded. Have you ever compared your speedo to a GPS speed signal to check calibration? If the speedo is off, so would the odometer, and that would skew your calculations. However, it seems yours may be off the other way... So I don't know. Just thinking out loud.

His truck doesn't have a lockup switch.

How's the adjustment on the shift lever beside the t case under the truck? In the right place? Tight?

Good question, I'm not sure. I have also been thinking of getting one, or some kind of popoff at least to stop the barking. Maybe @Me78569 can program a throttle ramp down option into the quad... Hint hint... Haha.

There are a few threads around in the last couple years that talk about your problems. The fuel pressure reading being unstable is likely due to the location of your sensor. If it's too close to the VP, it will experience the water hammer effect, and get pulses that affect the measurement, and eventually destroy the sensor. I lost a couple cheap sensors that way. That was with a snubber, and sensor mounted direct to VP. Now I have the snubber and a needle valve barely open, and some extra hose. With these trucks, if you go wide open throttle and back right off, especially on an auto, this can happen. Happened to me once, ended up towing it home to troubleshoot, ended up having to bleed the injector lines. After doing some research I came to the conclusion that because of high load and highly advanced timing, cylinder pressures were able to overcome the injectors after the pedal was lifted. After the VP pressure is lowered, some pressure still exists in the cylinder, enough to pop the injector and force some air into the fuel line. I think in my case the injector pop pressures had fallen low as well, which wouldn't help the situation. I should note as well that my VP went about a year later (maybe sooner I can't remember the timeframe exactly)

Half right half wrong. Yes the windings are insulated. The oil does dissipate heat, but it most definitely insulates against arcing. If you don't believe me, drain one, stand back, and fire it up. This almost happened to one of our 13.8kv to 480v transformers. This is especially important with higher voltages, and is why larger transformers trip and lock out if they sense low oil. I might have missed this, but further to Mike's comment about the shift selector adjustment, are the reverse lights on if you pull the lever all the way to '1'? My vote is a high resistance short in the switch contact when it is supposed to be open. However, let me be lazy for a moment, because I don't want to look at the drawing, but does this switch +12v or does it switch ground? I'll look for myself when I have more time.

See I've heard this before, and I've always thought it was because people don't take their transmissions in for a service UNTIL there are problems. So the thing is already toast, they are just hoping fresh oil will fix it. And, of course it doesn't. Soon after, things stop working completely, and the flush vets blamed. But maybe that's not true, just a thought. I would think that it would also be a bad idea to flush before removing the pan and cleaning out sludge. As someone said, it may stir things up.

Agreed. Oil is an electrical insulator. It would arc through an air gap before it would through oil. Oil filled transformers rely on this.

What kind of clutch? Organic or ceramic? Or half and half?

If I didn't have any idea how many miles were on the fluid, I'd do a flush. Regular fluid changes without a flush are fine too, but keep in mind you are only getting half the fluid (estimated), so the new is still diluted with the old.

I second that, maybe bleed the lines to rule it out.

Not necessarily, unless there is collateral damage. I myself pulled my case apart because I'm installing a billet input shaft. I thought I'd be silly not to put new clutches and seals in while it was apart. Took the opportunity to upgrade clutches. And then I found the damage. Was likely very close to what's happening to yours. Assuming that's the problem, I am by no means an expert, so please try to get an expert's opinion as well.

Take a look at this article. If you're slipping in 1st gear while in 'D', and not slipping in manual 1st, then the overrunning clutch (low roller clutch) has likely failed. Mine just spun the clutch cam/race, hadn't failed yet but noticed it on rebuild. Still trying to find a viable solution. This is literally the last piece to come out of the trans case, so it's a full rebuild I'm afraid.

No vacuum controls on either. The 47RE has an electronic governor, and lockup + overdrive are electronic. 1st, 2nd and 3rd are hydraulically controlled. The 47RH I believe has a mechanical governor and all shifts (excluding TCC lockup) are hydraulically controlled. I'm not sure if that's 100% accurate but it should be close. Overdrive might actually be electronic as well.