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Mine is a Gates 33956 180° thermostat. Just for fun yesterday I took a screen capture video of the IQuad app on my short 5km drive home. My coolant warmed up to 183, cooled to 177, and settled around 179 for most of the drive, with the odd cycle from 177 to 181. I expect a wilder swing when we hit -30° temperatures in winter.

I've had great results with Gates thermostats. Very little cycling in temperature. Stant on the other hand, I've had wild temperature swings. My Stant acted like this. Never the Gates. There might be more than one model of the same brand though.

That's a pain in the ***.

I'd say next step is to datalog then.

Are you sure your wiretap is working? Can you datalog this condition?

Awesome, thanks Nick.

@Quadzilla Power Are there any updates on the Gallon Trip issue? Thank you, -Kole

@Timd32 I'm curious to find out how you like the Goerend 15SS. I got the 17SS, supposed to be slightly higher stall than the 15SS. However, I wish it was a little higher yet to get the twins to spool from a dead stop. Nothing else to complain about though, it does it's job well. Edit: I'm also running John Deere Hy-Gard J20D Low Viscosity instead of ATF. Even though it's Viscosity is close to Dexron III, it might have lowered the flash stall a little. I'm also using my crappy injectors until I have time to send my better ones in for service. That's not helping my situation.

No worries, thank you for keeping up with this. If I can help in any way, please let me know. I'm well versed with Android and can handle moderate tasks, USB ADB, etc. I also have root access if needed. And if you want me to test any changes, I can.

Maybe there is a second set of holes in the cross member to account for the small difference?

I thought the NV4500 was set up the same as the automatic, just the 5600 was pushed back a bit?

Is the hub size / center bore of the wheel the same between all 8-lug rams as well?

@Quadzilla Power I have verified this problem is not fixed. Just tried the latest app from the app store on Android 4.4.4, and tried upgrading to 5.1.1. No change. Phone connects on Bluetooth. OBD2 Bluetooth device connects. IQuad even appears to pair. But the app has no communication with the Bluetooth service, and does not find any devices.

Correct, mine is the opposite of that, the exhaust bracket points to the passenger side.

I did the same. It's nice to have a mechanical fuse, stock output shafts are pretty cheap.

You do not need billet flexplate or input shaft to use manual lockup if you are careful to not allow locked shifts. However, it's never a bad idea to get a billet flexplate and input with a triple disk regardless. To be honest, my triple disk doesn't feel like it locks up much harder than my single disk did. It just stays locked and doesn't slip! Edit: If I may backpedal a little bit, my factory flex plate broke with just a single disk converter 1000 lb ft of torque (usually tuned to run lower). Sometimes s**t just happens. The billet parts were definitely a good suggestion. I hate doing things twice, but that's how we learn. Now I have a BD Black flex plate and a TCS Products billet input to go with my Goerend converter.

Well, I guess what you mean by "high stall". If your trans is capable of manual lockup in 2nd gear and 3rd gear, then I disagree. 200rpm or so over stock stall would perform just fine towing. You're going to spend most of your time in lockup, where stall means nothing. I'm not saying you need to go higher, or that I recommend it. I'm just saying it would be fully functional. Stock stall is fine. I would strongly advise against a lower stall in a 24v Cummins. It turned mine into a complete dog.

@IBMobile I had two billet singles (took some bad advice from a local shop, replaced it under warranty once), and slipped them both without trying @ 50 lbs of boost. I finally broke down and got a Goerend triple disk, 17SS. Also, for my first converters, I took some terrible advice that I should get a low stall. These trucks are absolute dogs with a low stall (especially when you have 35" tires and 3.54 gears). We need the RPM to spool the turbo, and in my case turbos. Since we have lockup converters, I think most negative effects of raising (or at least not lowering) stall speeds are moot. Efficiency of fluid coupling is more important. Once my truck boosts under WOT, I pretty much ride the rev limiter until lockup anyway. To be honest, even the Goerend 17SS could stall a little higher for me. It's still a bit slow to build boost from a dead stop. I don't want this to turn into a debate about stall RPM, just outlining my personal experience. I would also make sure you have a well built valve body. And, you may not want to hear this, but depending on how many miles are on your trans, if it's worn enough for the converter to have issues, And you're pulling it anyway, it likely should have a full rebuild.

I am currently on the latest app from the app store as of Aug 16th. Is there another update? Sorry for the late response, I didn't get a notification of your post.

Hello @Quadzilla Power, I really think it's time we deal with this problem. I've brought this up in the past, but I haven't pushed the issue hard enough. I'm willing to lend some time to help with this wherever possible. I know this is a common problem, and I know it's isolated to the iQuad app. On my Android device in my truck (Android Head Unit), running 4.4.x or 5.x.x, iQuad will not see ANY bluetooth devices. The app itself, has no communication with bluetooth devices. I can even pair the iQuadBT device, no problem. Pairs fine. My phone pairs fine. My OBD2 scanner pairs fine, and works with Torque Pro. I have taken the necessary steps to make sure the iQUADBT is allowed to pair. My bluetooth manager on the device sees any bluetooth device nearby. When iQuad says it's looking for devices, it doesn't find any, whether they are paired or not. I can't stress enough, that iQuad is the only issue on this device. Everything else works flawlessly. Please help get this sorted out. Let me know what you need from me for information and I'll get it to you as soon as I can. When we get this one fixed, maybe we can sort out why the logs won't export on these devices. Thank you in advance, -Kole

Did I say you had to, and did I say I recommended it? No. I was just answering the question of why one would do that. Also, my rig wouldn't be down for a week. My rig would be down for 3-4 hours while I pop them on my bench with my cheapo eBay pop tester. We are in the 24 valve Dodge Cummins forum. They are all the same, and it does not depend on make/model. Who the hell has a new 24v Cummins truck? Again, I didn't recommend it. I explained why it's not a bad idea, and why one would be interested in doing this. Based on MY personal experience, and no one else's. I don't know, and I don't really care. Why don't you ask them for yourself if you have concerns? Again, being that we are in the 24 valve Dodge Cummins forum, I only speak for that truck, with experience from mine. I don't claim to be an expert, but to say every single injector is the same? That's just not a true statement. For example, what about the modern diesel injectors that share a common rail, with electronic solenoid control? I'm sorry to bust your balls here. But really. If someone wants to do EXTRA maintenance on they're machine to help improve everything they can, make things more efficient, predictable, and reliable? Instead of judging them, maybe pay attention and you might learn something new. If you don't want to take the extra step or precautions on your equipment? That's fine man. Nobody is judging you. Do what makes you happy.

To prevent pop pressures dropping below the ideal, or your intended levels. I've found they drop fairly quickly, especially in the first 10,000 kms I think I lost close to 10 bar. One strategy is to pop them about 10 bar higher at initial install. When things wear in, the hope is that they will settle where you want. But they will still continue to drop over time.

The voltage regulator for the alternator is in the PCM, not the ECM. My concern would be if the original problem with the voltage regulator has not been addressed, especially if that's how the ECM originally took on damage.

Be careful increasing line pressure on what could be a tired stock trans. The 2nd gear band strut doesn't like extra pressure, and it will bend at some point.

I wouldn't go to a dealer, any shop with the DRB tool can do it for you, assuming they have one and know how to use it. Any reliable and licensed shop with a good rep should have one.