kzimmer

I joined that group, but I also can't see where to post on my phone. And that group does not appear on the main forum index on the home screen.

Haha well I'm glad you came to the same conclusion I did!

@IBMobile has that black vacuum hose on your boost controller been holding up? The stuff I first used looked just like that, and it split from the pressure. I had to replace it with silicone.

Just to verify, does it still run like crap with the Datalink/map sensor connection/VP44 wiretap connections back to stock?

I'm no transmission expert, but I'd say either the torque converter is damaged internally, or the valve body is malfunctioning. My money is on the torque converter. But I strongly recommend taking it to a reputable shop for diagnosis. Is this the 545RFE?

Certain things tend to piss it off. For example, when I start my truck (manually or by remote start), while waiting for the grid heater time, the quad is booted up, my android head unit is booted up, the iQuad app starts, then the truck starts, of course the radio goes to sleep momentarily while the truck is cranking, the app comes back, and will not connect. Close app and reopen, and it usually will connect. Back out of the app and go back into it, usually it's half connected and won't show any data. Need to force close and reopen. I think the majority of the iQuad connection issues are because of the app itself. Just a speculation though.

I can't answer your question, but I think that would largely depend on what converter you have, what the stall is set up to, and how much load is on the motor at any given time (more load = more slippage). Someone might have some information about a stock powered truck with a stock trans though.

Mines the same. Major Bluetooth bugs on the 3 different android devices I've used with the iQuad BT adapter and/or the Android app itself.

Holy chit. I've actually been considering moving to an oil sample based system for "when" to change oil, but, then I consider how much it costs in the grand scheme of things... And then I just go to my garage and change my oil.

Can't he just unplug the ABS module to get him home safely?

Well now you've got me thinking that I should go find my vacuum tester and find some leaks. BTW your sig is hilarious. Every time the temperature dips below -20°C I'm like "Please ******* start."

I paid 1 hour labour to do mine at a shop that wasn't even a dealership. I wish there was a better way.

When I bought my truck, none of the power seat functions would work. I spent hours troubleshooting it, including testing the switch, checking for voltage at the motors, etc. It turned out that every single motor was shot. I would never have believed it if I didn't see it for myself. I ended up replacing the entire seat from a wrecker.

They do! It's in your local liquor store. Available in Red and White varieties.

Are you sure you aren't getting a high line pressure condition in the PCM causing the second (or third?) gear start? I'm assuming you are running more line pressure with your new trans.

I have seen up to 19 degrees as @Me78569 said. 25° BTDC at idle sounds crazy. I live in some harsh cold winter climates, down to -40 negating windchill sometimes, and I have never seen mine that high. But now I'm really curious, next time I get a really cold morning I'll see what the quad says is being commanded.

I used to have a 99 Grand Cherokee Limitee with the 4.7L V8. Never should have sold it, incredible vehicle aside from the occasional death wobble. Anyway, it had a 45RFE. Never skipped a beat. I remember when I found out it could be flashed to a 545RFE. Blew my mind a little that mechanically, they are the same trans, and a simple dealer update to the TCM gave it "5th gear" via a different combination of clutch packs.

This still sounds like voltage is dropping too low during cranking. I had this problem when I had one bad cell, and the one bad cell could only be seen while load testing the battery individually, with the cell cover off. The one cell would boil/gas off. Could be a damaged/weak starter (lost a brush or pair of brushes?) Causes excess current draw leading to excessive voltage drop. Could be damaged or corroded positive or negative cables or terminations (lugs, crimps, etc). If it happens more on colder mornings, could be the near 200A draw of the grid heaters over an extended warmup period is too much for the batteries. I know you said you load tested the batteries, but I think you should really consider a charging system issue. These trucks are cranky that way. You might be shocked how start-able and drive-able our trucks are with charging system issues, but weird symptoms like this start to arise. Anything else happening that doesn't seem quite right?

If you shut the truck off, and then turn the key on without staring, does the trip still reset? Were the batteries tested individually or were they still wired in parallel?

I'm skeptical, but I like the concept. There's some major design challenges there.

No hunting gears for me. Just a small shudder that can be felt in low rpm low load situations when the TCC is locked. I haven't measured A/C with my new alternator from a 2001 Dodge Durango (160A Hairpin Stator), but it seems to be doing great. Thank you very much for the explanation. The specific scenario in the above quote can probably be viewed in a datalog for verification purposes I suppose.

Can you elaborate on these a little bit when you have a spare minute? If I allow my Torque converter to lock up too early, or allow the trans to shift into overdrive too early, I experience what I thought was TC shudder, but now I'm thinking might be this surging/bucking scenario. (35" tires and 3.54 gears, RPM can be fairly low in this situation). If I give it more throttle, the problem disappears immediately. It's only a light throttle scenario, I'd estimate 15% or less throttle.

Agreed. This has been requested in the past though. IQuad app development has been pretty slow in the past. If anyone's listening, I could really use a bigger settings button, lol. I have to hit it a minimum 20 times to find the sweet spot to get it open. Sucks when you are in a hurry, like trying to get to the data log screen.

Removed the HX35 factory boost referenced wastegate actuator today and installed the Crazy Carl's spring gate actuator. It wasn't exactly a bolt on replacement; the threaded actuator rod it came with and the angle of the spring cup were not angled properly at all. I tried clocking the center section a little to help straighten it out, but I couldn't go any further as my oil drain was hitting the T3 mount on the manifold. So I had to bend the hell out of it and drill out the hole in the bottom of the spring cup larger to accommodate the various angles as the wastegate opens. I had some words, since the only reason I was willing to pay for this thing was so I didn't have to piss around. But, now it's installed... And good riddance to the factory actuator. I can't believe how much this helped. Slapped it on with very little though to spring adjustment, and without wiretap, got 53psi overall, 22 psi out of the secondary, and 55 psi drive pressure at less than 1250°F EGT. Nearly 1:1 DP to Boost ratio from 1.4:1. Primary PR 2.5:1, Secondary PR 1.85:1. Tightened the spring a turn or so, threw on 600ms of wiretap, and saw 60psi overall, 24 psi primary, 70 psi DP, at 1360° max EGT. 2.64:1 Primary PR, 1.93:1 Secondary PR, 1.17:1 DP ratio. I think if I tightened up the spring a little more I could still drop EGT a little and get the PR's on both turbo's a little closer together, but probably at the expense of drive pressure. Might be worth it? Regardless, I'm very happy with the results. I just wish I would have known about it sooner. Disclaimer about EGT measurements: I can't possibly watch EGT while watching three boost gauges. I'm going off of the Max of a WOT run. It's possible that it settles a bit lower, but it's likely accurate.

Sounds possible, @Jacobbish what's it like above 25mph low rpm high throttle?