bjytech

Alright so my truck is rotting away and its already beyond the point of getting it repaired with out spending a arm and a leg at a body shop a so I'm looking at swapping my driveline (engine, trans, t-case, axles) into another truck. I found a 98 1500 ext cab short bed with a seized engine that looks to be in really nice condition so what I'm wanting to know is if my front axle and all the steering linkages would bolt up to it. I know the engine, trans, t-case, and rear axle will all bolt right in but I'm not sure about the steering linkage stuff, I would think it would but I don't really know.

Well there really isn't that many places to check for the problem since its only when in 4wd. Places to check would be right at the cad (which I doubt), one of the front drive shaft U-joints, or the t-case itself. Since you say its coming from up front my best guess would be once of the U joints on the drive shaft, since as long as the CAD is locked in the front drive-shaft is turning and when the CAD is unlocked the front drive-shaft doesn't turn.

the steering shaft on these are know for being pretty loose, what most people do is install a borgeson steering shaft to tighten that part of the steering up.

try having him go to the "user control panel" then in the setting on the left click the "general settings" link and scroll down to the bottom where "miscellaneous options" is and try either the basic or standard message editor interface instead of the full WYSIWYG editor that you get by default.

This summer when I took a load of scrap to the recyclers my truck weighed 6960 with about 3/4 tank of fuel and the usual stuff in the toolboxes.

I'm going to be replacing my headgasket here after the next payday or 2 and was wondering if anyone here has done it before? and if so got any advice/pointers? I have a pretty good idea of what all I have to do, my main area of concern is about checking the head for straightness and whatnot. I'm also planning on upgrading my injectors too while I have everything apart.Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Was on my way to work this morning and stopped on a hill at a red light. Light turns green so I start letting out on the clutch and I thought the truck was going to stall so I mash the clutch in and it picked back up, so I give it some more fuel and start letting the clutch out again and watta you know I start going backwards... in 2nd gear truck ran for about 10 seconds or so backwards then died. Started it back up and off she went like normal. quite a experience though.

around me here in ohio they will set up road side inspection stations once or twice a year but they are easily avoidable since they always anounce when and where they will be on the radio the week before.

all you should need to do to the pump is reseal it, I know the seal kit for it costs about $30 and then you have the labor. I was going to reseal the pump on my dads truck because it had been leaking a little fuel from the same hose thing but then it magically stopped doing it one day so I just left it alone. Wish I could tell you what kind of a job it is to reseal it but I haven't done that yet.

I know what hose you are talking about, and from what I have learned if fuel is coming out that hose the pump has a bad seal on one of the pins inside of the pump.

I think this is a great idea! I know I've been in the same boat as you looking for info on the 7.3's since my dad has one and barley gets 10MPG on a good day :spend:I always got lost in the sea of scattered info though so never really found much out.

Dad uses the truck for work whenever he can because it really out performs the ford he has in both power and most importantly fuel economy. We weren't able to find a ignition switch locally so we ended up having to buy one and it just arrived today. Thanks for the wiring diagrams Jordan even though I didn't get to see them till now.

Yesterday I had to go rescue my dad because the ignition in his truck went bad. He was checking out a roofing job and he got in his truck to leave and the key would not turn for anything, tried the spare key too and got the same result. So we took the steering column apart and fixed it so the steering wheel lock wouldn't lock the wheel up and then hot-wired the truck to get it home. Now on to what I need help with, Dad wants to keep using that truck, so till we can get the ignition fixed right I'm looking for a wiring diagram or something that will tell me what wires going to the ignition do what so I can wire something up so he can start it from in the truck and have the radio and everything. I've not had any luck so far with google.forgot to say that his truck is a 91 D350 without tilt steering if that matters at all.

One thing I found out about installing a head unit with the infinity system is that there are usually 2 blue wires coming off the head unit wiring harness and you want to connect the blue amp remote wire and not the blue antenna remote wire. When I originally installed my head unit with my infinity system I had connected the antenna remote wire and I had no bass. I did some research and found that I needed to connect the amp remote wire instead, so I did that and I had bass again.

Reminds me of a duramax I saw yesterday going to work, it had a 2-2.5" tail pipe on it it was blowing some smoke too so it must run some pretty hot EGT's.

I have a really hard time believing it too. My Dad has a 99 F-450 and hes hard pressed to get over 10mpg while hauling just a few tons on a trailer and it gets maybe 14-16mpg when empty, our neighbor has a early 2000's F-350 and he gets just a little bit better than what my dad gets.

Mine did the same thing till last weekend when I eliminated the fuel heater from the fuel system, Now the truck starts and runs great. My fuel heater was leaking pretty good, when I unplugged the wire connectors that go to the fuel heater they were filled with fuel from it leaking out through the wires that go in to the heater element.

hmm now I think it may just be my software and the strange baud rate, although it had been working a few months ago but I noticed in the software's console window it was automatically detecting that the truck uses a baud rate of 115200 for some strange reason (I think thats what it was, I know it started with 11)

Today I hooked my computer up to my truck and when I viewed the live data values (RPM, VSS, ECT, IAT, etc) with my truck idleing the numbers were jumping all over the place, for example the VSS would read 0 then 68 then 136 and all over the place with my truck just sitting there idling. So something is wrong somewhere in the truck because I tried connecting to other vehicles we have and everything works like it should with the OBD II cable and software. I'm not even sure where to start in trying to find the problem but right now I'm kind of thinking it may be a ground wire somewhere but I have no clue what wires to start checking

You should check to see if your axle vent tube is clogged, because if it is it will cause that seal to leak. The vent tube should be pretty easy to find, just look for a rubber hose coming off the axle that goes to nowhere. The place where it usually gets clogged is the hole going through the axle tube, so what I do is just find something that fits the hole and stick it through to unclog it and then put the rubber hose back on.

Got a nice laugh out of that one, thanks

hmm would the dinger be a part of the CTM on my 96? because I don't seem to have one and my wipers are really unpredictable, and the timed delay function doesn't work.

I don't even really know if the ABS is working or not but judging by the skidmarks I left in the grass I would have to guess no. Didn't change any vacuum lines or anything. There is a vacuum check valve on the booster, it came brand new on the booster, but I guess it could be bad. the brake pedal retuning seems to be normal as far as I can tell. You only have to push the pedal down maybe 1-3 inches before the brakes lockup.I can't really do anything to the truck now for a bit because my uncle took it on a trip out of state yesterday and the left lower ball joint gave out on the highway so I have to get that fixed before the truck can move again, when it happened the truck went across all 3 lanes but stopped just before it hit the median. Luckily there was no one else around them when it happened so nobody got hurt.

Both front and rear lockup and its got the vacuum booster.

We replaced the front rotors and the drums are good. As far as I remember there was no way to adjust the actuator rod. Another thing I forgot to mention is that the pedal has very little resistance to it.