trreed

Right. I forgot about that...

There are a few different versions of the HX40 out there. The one in your link above has a 70mm exhaust wheel and is too big for your current exhaust housing.

I've made a short video showing my steering wheel movement. Now, I agree with you that my steering is loose and need addressed @TFaoro, but I am disagreeing with you on your claims of how much the wheel moves. As you can see in the video, the wheel moves 1/8 of a turn to each side before it starts moving the wheels (shown by the tension in the shaft springing the wheel back to the center) for a TOTAL of 1/4 turn movement, not "1/4 to 1/3 of a turn to each side"

It's not that much! You can't get to 1/4 turn each direction, I've tried. 1/8 turn each direction at most.

I wasn't aware Arby's was mobile.. Thought they were all static buildings! I'm guessing your question was about retorquing the studs under the rockers, and yes, you will have to remove them to get the retorque done.

It's not that bad.... We all know Tyler likes to hate lol

Then the question becomes Redtop or Bluetop box? I've heard that Manton likes to recommend the biggest pushrods regardless of power goals.. I'll have to call them and see what the prices are

I'm multi-tasking guys.... compounds are a ways out yet. But then again, so is that DOR track bar ??

Ok guys, I'm starting to get the truck ready for compounds, hopefully before the end of summer I'll have the compounds on the truck or a good idea of what I'll end up with. I've already briefly talked with @TFaoro about this, and he recommends the 104# valve springs, and 3/8" dia x .095" wall pushrods from Manton. Has anyone (@jlbayes) have any experience with these or is there anything else you guys recommend?

Interesting the prices went up $3. My bad.

You shouldn't need to replace that o-ring. It has sealant on it that works well multiple times. But $4 is not as expensive as I was thinking it was

^gotcha. I was on a lift so both sides were off the ground.

I had a similar experience with those same bfg's. I was not happy with those at all, especially with how expensive they were! I'm looking at a set of 285/70R17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2's as my next set, as I know a few people running them who absolutely love them.

You might be able to sneak that front bolt out. They aren't very long. I've heard of one guy who has done the replacement without taking the VP off. Though the issue you might run into is getting the physical cover out with the VP still on

Look at you go! I just read that Cummins sells them for around $8, if you happen to have a Cummins location close-ish to you @Dieselfuture

When I put my 1.5" kit in, I ended up having to remove the upper control arm to allow the axle to sag enough to get the kit in. Maybe the AAM axles allow for more articulation than the old Dana's do.

lol! I'm just getting started! Cognitive abilities usually go first, but those are never really there to begin with. So there isn't much to lose at all!

Oh, I was thinking you had 2" spacers on the hubs, not the 2" levelling kit. Oooooops. I've been drinking lol. Anyways, the same thing I said above still applies since you're not changing the physical steering components. I didn't re-align mine when my level kit went in

I don't think an alignment would be needed if all you're changing is the overall width of the tires and leaving the physical steering components alone.

I am not the person to ask about valve guides lol. I have no idea. @TFaoro and @jlbayes are the best of the best. I can answer some of your other questions: The fuel return T has three o-rings in there. I'll see if i can find a link to them, as I've seen a link before (though I am drinking, so it might take a while). I'm running a fel-pro tappet cover gasket too. No issues. Just about all of the stuff you took off to get the head off has torque specs of 18 ft-lbs. Injector hold downs are 89 in lbs. The VP nut is 125 ft lbs. Since your head is off, the way to stop the motor from turning is to use a barring tool. There's a plug in the bellhousing adaptor on the passenger side that a 15/16 socket (I think) fits in and stops the crank from turning. For your head studs, I would torque them to 125 ft lbs, run the motor through a few heat cycles of cold to op. temp, and then completely loosen each stud and retorque to 125-130 ft lbs. Update: Found the link! http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=615427 Though they are $18 each. Most of the threads surrounding this topic involves 1/4" long fuel line as a replacement grommet.

I think the extra 125 would be worth it, especially if you can make it an even $1000. I only have experience with LS heads, which turned out to be super cheap to completely go through. If I remember correctly @TFaoro, wasn't your total bill around $1200-$1300 for your head?

Ohhh, so that's how they prevent barking. They made it so it never spools!

from my understanding of DAP's writeup on it, it's a 60/58/not specified. Which I'm not sure how they get away with that, as I would think it has pretty bad surging issues. But it has the same v-band as your current HX has, so you could use your exhaust brake with it

Good call! I forgot all about that option.

"It made 500. Promise. Can't find the dyno sheet but it made it. I swear it did."