trreed

I'm giving the Rockford Fosgate 6x9'' and 5.25'' a try. I have two RF 400W 10" subs that blow me away with both the kick and sound quality depsite how low I have the amp set, so I'm hoping the door speakers will be alright without an amp.

It should run directly to the selector. then it goes to the three motors.

That is a possibility as it runs the whole length of the HVAC box.

Did the supply hose running to the passenger side get crushed?

It's actually +2 or +3, because if I'm not mistaken, there's still a degree added when you're over 55 mph. Or did that go away @Me78569

Old thread, but mine had a plug added to the bed in the style you have. It was spliced into the OE harness by the spare tire, and used heat shrink butt connectors, tape, and wire loom. I believe it was 'professionally' done, and only recently did I have issues with corrosion and broken wires. So, I just did the same butt connectors, heat shrink, and tape. The original lasted 18 years, so this should last the same I hope.

Oh but myself and @TFaoro have! Not super grand.

Why is there surface rust on the cam gear is my question.

When rolling up my driver's side window, it'll start to chatter about half way up, or right when that leading corner hits the weatherstripping. Has anyone else experienced that? Do I get some silicone lubricant in there? Or replace the weatherstrip?

I wish my turnover ball installation was as simple as drilling a hole for an airbag bracket. I had supports for 5th wheel rails welded to the frame that I had to cut out. Got a nice scar on one of my knuckles from a death wheel that slipped out of the cut. I would agree with the above, and have the side rails of the hitch tight against the frame. then drill as necessary to get the bags mounted again.

I used good ol' Fastenal cause they were the only place I could find 12.9 grade bolts locally.

@dripley it'll be fine just fine. I had an intake rocker pull the threads out of the head, and it was knocking and smoking like a Power Stroke. Put a longer bolt in the head, and it's been good to go ever since.

I always thought the 341 was the same specs as the HY35, just with a 3rd gen style cover.

HE341 should work, it's the HE351 that's 58mm.

@Thotsmasher I've got my eye on an 07 F350 right now to put a 6.7 CR in.... I might have a 6.0 laying around if you want it

Can you post a video of how it's running? That's going to help us the most

I would use brass instead of stainless.

Any good rear main seal kit should have a plastic install sleeve to help you get the lip of the seal over the snout of the crank. Should pretty much slip on.

No. Only modifications to engine hard parts I have are head studs and valve springs. Nothing else has been touched.

Yep, strong agree on the 1AAuto mirrors. Trail Ridge brand. I went with the 4th gen glass, power fold/heated option, and spent the time to get the marker lights to function as both running lights and turn signals, and i'm glad I did. Makes the truck look plenty different on the road. Wiring was a nightmare, however.

Run of the mill South Bend 3250 dual disk. Now what I forgot is if it was the half and half unit or all one material. If I had to guess, it’s the organic/ceramic unit.

I also have two larger turbines to spool to your one. That’s the main reason I pull so much timing.

I have everything to monitor drive pressure, but then decided ignorance is bliss and never followed through. If it gets any more serious than how it currently sits, it’s going to get a 73mm turbine on the s300 and then I’ll be fine.

Last time I ran down a strip I went in the high 15's.... so I always forget what it's now capable of.

Well I'm assuming the Viper will be there....