trreed

Evening all- My dash plastics and door panels have been faded pretty badly by the sun. It's somewhere between the Agate Grey and Light Grey interior colors anymore. I'm looking for a product similar to the "Plastic Renew" to bring back that nice dark grey color. Does anyone have a favorite product that might be better or last longer? I'm looking for longevity mostly.

I've got the same covers. Hardest part is they don't breathe well, so my back gets schweaty in the summer. Otherwise they hold up to the dog just fine

I only notice a stopping difference with a trailer since I've done the conversion. There shouldn't be any difference between DRW and SRW pickups. The 17" rim rule still applies.

Ever seen the one with two guys pushing a crate filled with weight back and forth over a cylinder head? That's viable too!

Some may say a flap disk would be better, but I prefer a good ol' grinding wheel.

Mine responds best to the Pennzoil Outdoor two-stroke (hard to find around Denver), followed by the Pennzoil Marine two stroke. SuperTech two stroke makes it rattle noticeably more. I'm not sure why.

I’d personally dribble ATF in there and see if you can free it up. I’d let it soak over night even

Double check with hand calculations to see how your mileage is after your long trip

It’s obnoxiously big. Another switch is a good idea, but this one comes with a neat harness and a specific plug.

The heat button is built into the climate control cluster. I did have to get a different cluster with the button built in (again, eBay). The power fold comes with a gigantic button, and there really isn't a great place to mount that, that I've found yet. I was getting annoyed with the wiring by the time it came to mounting that switch, so it's currently zip-tied to the brake controller harness and I'll build a mount for it eventually.

Mine had manual mirrors when I got it, but I was lucky enough to have the harness for power mirrors was in the door already. So it was just finding an OEM switch (ebay, junk yard) and the power mirrors operated right away. If you have power windows and locks, there's a good chance there's a harness in your doors too. the extra wires were a PITA, because the power fold is a nicely made harness, but it's way too long (because it's universal i guess) so there's a lot of extra wire bundled up. The turn signals were loose wires. You'd think that they'd offer a harness with the signals and power fold together, but they don't. So the signal wires are ran through heat shrink tube to keep them together.

One is the quadzilla feed and the other is for the pillar gauge illumination.

No, power fold in and out. Flipping the head up is still manual. Honestly I was most excited for the marker lights.

Well, the power fold is only $50 more than just signals so I sprung for it. Turn signals is the expensive option for some reason. Wiring is a nightmare however. Definitely get the 4th gen style glass. That part is way worth it.

I’m very impressed with the quality. The glass doesn’t vibrate at all when driving and the power fold is quiet and smooth.

Trail Ridge I think. They’re from 1AAuto.

Put some 4th gen style mirrors on yesterday. I really like the style of the mirror, and the full length convex blind spot mirror makes parking a dream when you can see jsut about everything down the side of the pickup. I also wired the lights up to be both marker lights and turn signals. I think the additional lights add a nice touch to the cab lights, and i'm surprised Ram doesn't come standard with the marker/turn signal combo that Ford and Chevy have.

Definitely not the same amount of snow around here. Just thought it was pretty.

What happens when you need to pull a gooseneck? That's when I want a spare the most.

Bingo. That's the proper test for this issue. It looks cherry flavored. @JAG1, induction is created when current is passed through coil of wire that creates an electromagnetic field. This field can be used to anneal and heat treat metal, 'inducing' the current into the conductor, or if a magnet is introduced to the coil, it can cause motion (think two magnets on a AA battery passing through a coil of copper wire), though this is backwards from the above scenario. @kzimmer I haven't thought about my engineering physics classes in a good while, and now you've got me having flashbacks to the curl operation and making sure my thumb was facing the right way.

My spare is offset on the carrier to fit the exhaust there. It is still a tight fit, especially after the exhaust settled in place. You definitely could dent the pipe to get things to fit. It wouldn't cause any issues.

It can be done.

Well, you're liking the 18* mark right? There's your answer. Magically, the same value Smarty hovers around, and @pepsi71ocean's injectors will only be 5 bar more than yours. 72 psi won't make much of a difference at 4700 pop pressure..

We can though, if you use a quadzilla. Nick and Tyler did plenty of testing a couple of years ago to map the Samrty's timing curves. That's where Nick came up with the 18.02* number.

Mike injector lines are 19mm. But I agree with your hour. I did crossover tubes and re-seated all injectors in that hour yesterday.