trreed

@TFaoro sound like any Duraturd owner we know?

I did have a funky flash on my quad once that randomly caused rpm and canbus values to get stuck in the ecm, causing the truck to run away, catch itself, and die. A fresh flash and the problem has yet to return months later. So it might be a possibility. I would check the voltage regulator, AC and DC voltage, and maybe reflash the quad to start.

His name is Austin Tate, out of Ohio. I am not him lol.

At least I didn't say 67/67.. Gotta give me a little credit for that!

75 HP injectors would be a good match for a 35/40 hybrid, then use the quad to fine tune it. The exhaust housing and turbine remain the same size as yours (60mm turbine, 12cm housing) in a hybrid setup like @Mopar1973Man's. The reason I would recommend a wastegate with a 35/40 hybrid is to prevent overspeeding the shaft, as the bigger compressor wheel extends the compressor map and the turbine wheel becomes the limiting factor. I would not, however, recommend something like a 62/60/12. The bigger compressor wheel could cause pretty bad barking, and with a 7mm shaft, could lead to a bad time. If you're set on a 62mm inducer, then I'd look into exhaust housing machining to fit a 65 or 68mm turbine.

I couldn't pass up the opportunity for the joke...

So, this compressor housing does not have a mounting provision for the wastegate actuator. This one: http://www.gillettdiesel.com/gds-ch-12.aspx does allow for stock mounting of the wastegate. For your current setup, a 12cm housing is the best bet, unless you're planning on some crazy injector upgrades. A wastegate is also usually a good idea. 10 blade turbines are usually good for exhaust whistle. (at least they are in 6.blow world). But as @TFaoro says, be wary of ebay specials. Keep in mind you'd have to machine out the exhaust housing to fit a 67 mm exducer, which is pushing the limit of the wall thickness of the housing. Ask Taterbuilt about that! I think your hunch on this being a Chinese part is a good one. I personally wouldn't do it. By my math on all the above listed things, you'd be sitting at about $760. What I would do is go find a used Borg Warner S362 for around the same price and not look back. But, you wouldn't be able to use your exhaust brake with a 4" outlet. @TFaoro, glad you mentioned the spray pattern. I was wondering if it was a SAC vs. VCO difference, since SAC injectors have the orifices higher up on the nozzle than VCO's do.

1) Taking the rockers off with valves open doesn't matter, but putting them on with no spring tension is important to get a correct torque in them. 2) Retention bands aren't really important to put back on. As for the cracking manifold, I'd look for another one now to prevent having to pull the turbo off again in the near future. 3) The bumps on the bridges really doesn't matter which direction they face, I put all of mine with the bumps facing outwards. 4) Those are definitely A1 H11 studs, the taper at the end is their characteristic tell-tale. Not sure of the torque specs on those. 5) That is a lot of carbon buildup on those injectors. Like holy crap. Do you use any fuel additive? @TFaoro isn't that what yours looked like too?

Was the play side to side or in and out? A bit of side to side play is acceptable, but in/out play means rebuild or replace. As for the drive pressure question, since it's the same turbine and housing as the HX35, the drive pressure would remain the same. It might even go up a touch due to a heavier compressor wheel in the hybrid.

The hybrid part happens on the compressor side. It utilizes the same exhaust housing and turbine as the HX35, and the compressor housing and backing plate are machined to fit a HX40 compressor wheel.

The inside of the compressor housing looks very clean to me, so at least you don't have an oil leak there. I understand the desire to rebuild it since it's out, but to your point, if it's working fine it may be unnecessary. Unless a swelled housing really bothers you, the cheapest route would be to put it back on.

Might be easier to look around for another HX35 (or even a super b).. That's gonna be a nightmare and a half to mess with.

Good eye on the spacers! Mine came from @TFaoro. Not sure where he got them from.

The build sheet says is it anyways! But I think it likes to change colors. Like the picture below, taken literally a minute ago and it looks very dark versus this shot taken mid morning.... So maybe mid morning and mid afternoon are the best times for the color. Or it's because I know every blemish on my truck and yours looks flawless in your picture.

@notlimah i'm jealous of how deep your blue is.

Try asking Tyler nicely lol. I know he's got an unmounted set laying around

Look closely at the nuts and studs. ARP should be stamped into both, along with the thread pitch on the nut.

I agree with @jlbayes, something looks goofy with those studs. First picture is of the stud in the same location on my truck. The longer ones go on the exhaust manifold side, so I'm wondering if you don't have 6 longer ones hiding under the valve cover. Second picture is of a shorter stud torqued to 135 ft-lbs. (I have ARP 2000's, the cheaper) Since I can't see the same amount of thread on your stud, I bet it's not torqued properly. Good thing the head is coming off! And finally, I'm betting those are 625's. Torque on those is 150 ft.lbs. No guarantee of the o-ringed head or previous high performance operation, as some people like to have the strongest possible to prevent issues.

Sometimes I hate these trucks for all their stupid quirks.... The projectors are super easy to do. The not-projector end is threaded and fits in the stock bulb hole, and the wiring comes as a kit from the retrofit source. Here's a link to @Me78569'a writeup on it, and the link to the actual kit is in there: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/55_truck-exterior/better-headlights-for-your-2nd-gen-dodge-ram-r6/

Sweet! Thanks for the pics! In addition to the death wobble, I have a nice popping sound when I turn to the left... so this will be ordered tomorrow, and hopefully I don't have to wait that long for shipping.... As a side note, I finally got a chance to drive my truck at night with the new projectors and had the opportunity to actually level them. The pictures below don't do the quality of light justice, but show what I see versus what someone in say, a Honda Accord would see, with the dimming mirror on (view with the regular mirror is no worse than the old halogen bulbs but my camera just showed pure light)

@notlimah, question about your track bar. I'm pretty sure I'm in need of one, since my truck has taken a liking to death wobbling (there goes a weekend of no truck issues). My question is about the bracket. Is it bolt on? Or does it require welding or drilling holes in the frame?

Is that were you cut holes in the sides of the bottom part of the air box?

Happy 4th of July weekend guys! I purposely planned to not work on my truck this weekend, and I have to say, it sure is nice to not be under the hood for the first time in weeks!

But that torque number tho! Funny how inaccurate it was. Though the places I go don't even give me a HP/TQ readout, so i have no idea what I'm making during the tests Did you happen to find out why they say there's a 20% opacity limit vs. the state's 35%?

Yeah I'll stick with my 12v breather. Thanks doe.