Tractorman

Isn't "D" for, "It will ready in December? - D1 for, "Ready for sure by December 1st?" I'm sure this is what it means. - John

I’ve had the roof and hood painted since my earlier posting of a photo. The rest of the body has just has a few paint chips, but the clear coat is still good. As usual, no good deed goes unpunished. While the truck was in the shop, I received a phone call saying, “Hey, we went to move your truck this morning and there is no power steering or power brakes”. Well, that was great news. So, after the truck was painted I picked it up with my flatbed trailer. At least it was towed by another Dodge Cummins. I replaced the power steering pump the next day and now the truck is back to work again - John

I ran my original compressor for 240,000 miles. I was adding refrigerant more frequently and decided to take a gamble and replace the compressor with another new Denso one year ago last month. The following November (and 13,000 miles later) I replaced the heater core. When I recovered the refrigerant, I took out the same amount I put in when I replaced the compressor. Since I had no refrigerant leaks, I decided not to replace the evaporator core when I had the dash apart. Time will tell whether or not it was a good decision. - John

You are getting closer. You do not need a heavy wire. Each relay consists of an internal coil and a switch. When the coil is energized it operates the switch. The coil only draws about one-sixth of an amp or about 150 milliamps, so light gauge wire is fine. The internal switch handles the load - about 100 amps for each grid heater. You are not tapping into the switch part, so no need for heavy wire. Note the wire sizes in the wiring diagram for the relay coils (18 gauge). Note the wire sizes for the relay switches (6 gauge). Also, the wires that leave the bottom of the page go to ground - not enough room to show it. Please let me know if I can make this more confusing. - John

The question has been answered. Whether you toggle the positive side or the negative side of the relays, you do not have to splice into any existing wires. In your case, disconnect the wire on the negative post of each relay and protect the wires from the elements as they will no longer be used. Then make a new wire (18 gauge is fine) that connects to both relay negative posts and run the new wire into the cab to your switch and then to a ground. If you use a maintained switch, when it is switched off (open), the grid heaters will never operate and two codes will be set. When it is switched on (closed), the grid heaters will operate normally. I chose to toggle the positive side of the relays with a momentary switch because I wanted to be the boss. I can choose when and how long to run the grid heaters. I think there is something in the Constitution about this freedom. I can also load test each battery independently by turning on the grid heaters for 15 seconds at a time and monitoring battery voltage during the test. Nothing like a built-in tool. - John

Here's an idea. If you want to fool the computer (like Mopar1973man likes to do - you know, the IAT fooler), you could measure the resistance of each intake manifold heater coil and then wire in a resistor of that value from each trigger wire to ground. That might stop a code from being set. For me, I don't mind the set codes. - John

I'm with Dripley here. Truck is running, battery voltage is at 14.2 volts (normal) - that means the voltage at the alternator output terminal has to be slightly higher to bring the batteries to 14.2 volts. It is possible that you are getting a poor connection with your test meter at the alternator output terminal. Something doesn't make sense here. - John

I think everyone knows that a responsible "push starter" would do it twice, the second time in the opposite direction. - John

My 02 also came with both. I pull three different trailers with trailer brakes using the 7 prong terminal. Been doing it for almost 290,000 miles and I have never had a problem with the trailer wiring circuit. Unreal Summit, if you are not the original owner of the truck and you noted that the 40 amp fuse for the trailer circuit was blown, then it is likely that a previous owner did something, (I am sure unintentionally), to this circuit. 01cummins4eve is steering you in the right direction. - John

The P0577 code ( Cruise Control Switch Voltage High) may be just coincidental. If the tilt wheel is used a lot, the wires that feed the cruise control switch flex over time and break internally. It is easy to check and repair - just remove the plastic panel under the upper steering column to gain access. The wire insulation may be intact, but the wire strands will be broken if this is the issue. This has happened to my truck twice, now. - John

I installed a new Borgeson steering gear box on my truck a few years ago. You may not be getting what you think you are getting, but I think you will like the steering gear box either way. Borgeson sold two different steering gear boxes under the same part number - one is a quick ratio, and the other is a variable ratio. I got the variable ratio. The following information is copied from a post I did for the TDR about three years ago. You may be interested in the read. "Borgeson Steering Gear Box 800120 - Things You Should Know..." Last winter I did some steering and suspension maintenance to give my 2002 truck (then at 215,000 miles) a second life. I upgraded to a Borgeson steering box and a Borgeson steering shaft. At the time Borgeson advertised that model 800120 steering box would reduce steering wheel turns from stop to stop to about 3 1/2 turns. My original steering box that I removed from my truck took 4 1/4 turns from stop to stop, so I was looking forward to a significant improvement. After installing the pitman arm on the new Borgeson steering box I noticed that it took exactly four turns from stop to stop. I thought that was rather odd, so I contacted my supplier who confirmed that only one model was made by Borgeson to fit '94-'02 Dodge trucks. So, I installed it on the truck and gave it a test drive thinking that it would feel much the same as my other one. Actually, it steered much better straight ahead and definitely had a faster ratio when turning sharp which didn't make sense to me because the ratio was only slightly faster than the one I replaced. I contacted Borgeson and explained that although I was happy with the overall results, I was really expecting significantly less turns of the steering wheel - as was advertised. The representative said that the 800120 is the only steering box available for '94-'02 Dodge trucks. I asked if there was someone I could talk to who could explain why the steering box that I purchased takes four full turns from stop to stop. I was transferred to an engineer and during our discussion the engineer noticed that there were two slightly different steering boxes that were being packaged and sold under the same part number (800120). She said that one was a 14:1 ratio (3 1/2 turns from stop to stop) and the other was a variable ratio with a higher ratio in the centered position. Now things began to make sense to me as to why the steering box installed on my truck felt so responsive, but did not meet my expected 3 1/2 turns from stop to stop. The engineer also said that the customer could not choose which one to purchase; either one could be shipped. I thanked her for the information she provided and I offered a recommendation that Borgeson might consider re-wording how the steering box is marketed (specifically the 3 1/2 turns statement). Even though my initial expectation was for a faster ratio steering box, I am still very satisfied with what I received. I just wanted to let other Dodge truck owners who are considering upgrading to a Borgeson 800120 steering box that I believe it is a very good upgrade, but one may receive a steering box different from their expectations. - John

I just realized that I gave the incorrect information in the above post. As of 7:25 pm I have corrected that post. I should have said that I installed a switch that supplies 12 volts to the control relays for the air intake manifold heater solenoids (I erroneously said that the switch grounds the air intake manifold heater solenoids). Below, you will see the text I copied from a post that I did several months back. I did not have to splice any wiring.. "Find the two relays that control the intake heaters. They are located just below the driver's side battery and power distribution center. You will see the two relays side by side, each with two small gauge wires and push-on connectors. One wire on each relay comes from the ECM (12 volts when commanded) and the other wire on each relay goes to ground. Remove the two wires from the ECM side of the relay and protect them from the elements (the wires will no longer be needed). The wire colors (according to the diagram) are orange with a black tracer and yellow with a black tracer. Sometimes colors differ slightly. From an un-switched 12 volt source add a fuse, a momentary switch (your choice of location), and enough light gauge wiring to complete the job. The wiring and the switch will only need to handle less than 150 milliamps of current. Coming from your switch, connect to each exposed terminal of each intake heater relay The terminal posts are threaded, so you will need to provide a nut with the proper thread pitch for a secure connection." Good luck with the project, - John

The only benefit to this method is that no codes will be set, but as you see, you don't get to use the grids when you want them or need them. I chose to wire in a momentary switch and mount it on the steering column. The switch supplies 12 volts to the air intake manifold heater control solenoids so that I get to choose when to use the grid heaters. Yes, codes P0380 and P0382 Intake Air Heater Relay #1 & #2 Control Circuit are set, but the check engine light stays off. To me the benefit of being able to have control over the grid heaters far outweighs having two codes permanently set. The momentary switch has been operational since the truck was new. - John

You should have a 48RE transmission. You can compare gear ratios in the chart below. Even if the torque converter could be locked in every gear (simulating a manual transmission), you still would not get the braking that a manual transmission would give. However, if you can modify your transmission to lock in all gears, then 1st gear with an exhaust brake would help you in the 10-20 mph range. Study the gear ratios. Note that 1st gear in the 48RE is in between 2nd and 3rd gears on the manual 5 spd and 6 spd.transmissions. Hope this helps, - John

I agree with you on the exhaust brake, but we have manual transmissions - yours a 5 spd, mine a 6 spd. We can use every gear to our advantage which really enhances the exhaust brake performance. Baja has an automatic transmission (stock I think), so only four gears and the first two gears are probably without converter lock-up capability. The grades he mentions are " winding, narrow, long 15+m and steep, + 8% in parts". In these situations I don't think an exhaust brake will help him much without doing some major transmission modification. On more popular highways where the grade typically maxes out at 6 or 7 per cent and curves are more gradual, the exhaust brake would really help him out, providing he can manually lock up the torque converter. I know that you already know all this, but I just didn't want the guy to get his hopes up thinking the exhaust brake would work as well with his automatic transmission as it does with a manual transmission. - John

Those were supposed to go on the fuel lines..... Anybody knows that magnets won't work on plastic lines - Dieselfuture, you were right!

I am assuming the turbo whistle is a pleasing sound to your ears, not an annoying one. Which turbo model do you have? - John

All turbos should sound like this! Mine doesn't - I'm jealous! - John

Here's mine - owned it since new. - John

I never have taken any decibel readings. I have done small things over several years to tame some of the harsh sounds that the Cummins engine emits. My focus has been to do things that reduce the source of the sound. For example, I have not spent a lot of time and money in attempts to insulate the cabin from the noise of the engine because when you roll down the window or step outside, all of that engine noise is still there. Instead, I have tried to reduce the noise from the engine right at the engine itself. The valve cover and especially the oil pan act as speakers and really do transmit a lot of engine noise. The best material for insulating those items would contain some dense solid mass (like lead) to have the best results; however, the additional weight is usually not desirable, so we compromise. When I worked around heavy equipment in the high country of Colorado, I could hear that an idling 3208 Cat engine with an insulated oil pan was much quieter than one without it. I didn’t need a decibel meter to observe that. Adding Mopar1973man’s IAT resistor circuit reduced engine noise during cold weather (around 50 degrees and especially colder) by modifying engine timing. An excellent idea – thank you Mike. I made and installed a length of ribbed plastic 3” drain pipe inside the BHAF. This pipe reduced engine air intake noise in the same manner a muffler does. It also reduced exhaust brake noise that backfeeds into the intake side of the engine. It is the combination of these additions or modifications to the engine that have reduced the overall unwanted noise coming from the Cummins engine that I can’t live without. I can tell you that if my truck is parked by another 24 valve second generation truck and both engines are idling, my truck will be quieter inside and outside. Each modification or addition by itself offerd small benefits in engine noise reduction, but when added up, the difference was noticeable even without using decibel meter before and after. Probably the one thing I miss most now is the turbo whistle – it is gone, and it is the one sound I liked! John

I have a heat blanket covering the exhaust manifold, turbo charger (exhaust side), exhaust down pipe, oil pan, and valve cover. This heat blanket is designed to easily withstand temperatures well above 2,000 degrees F., so the material does not deteriorate. The heat blankets were custom made and installed by Advanced Thermal Products in Irvine, CA The engine compartment runs considerably cooler, the seals in the exhaust brake vacuum cylinder no longer get scorched, and the passenger side floor now stays cool when pulling a long grade on a hot day. My wife likes that. I also removed the homemade heat shield protecting the BHAF as it is no longer necessary. There are noise reduction benefits, as well. The raucous idle clatter is subdued when standing outside of the vehicle as well as when sitting inside or driving down the road with the windows up or down. My wife likes that, too. The purpose for covering the valve cover and oil pan was for engine noise reduction only. The purpose for covering the exhaust components was for heat reduction in the engine compartment. There was some noise reduction benefit, as well. I can't make any claims as to the turbo spooling faster or that it is more efficient, but the turbo performs well (spools up early) and EGT's stay under 1200 degrees on a long grade pulling hard. This is with stock injectors and the Smarty programmer set on SW5 with default timing and fuel duration. As far as turbo cool down, it is always below 350 degrees by the time I park the truck, so I don't treat the cool down period any differently than I did before the heat blanket installation.. I can't compare EGT before and after the exhaust blanket installation because I had the EGT gauge and Smarty installed after the exhaust blankets. The blankets have been in use for over 45,000 miles and over two years. In my opinion the benefits are worth the money. - John

I would go to the Blue Chip Diesel site for VP44 and other components diagnostic chart. There is very good information at this site. Also, you will want to confirm that batteries, battery connections, grounds, etc. are all in good operating condition. Others will chime in soon to help. - John

I have a shop heated with a wood stove and I work in it almost every day. The shop is considerably smaller than yours, but the idea is still the same. The shop is 36’ x 30’ with 14’ eve walls and a 17’ peak. There is also a 200 square foot room with a 10’ ceiling attached. The total shop area is just under 1300 square feet. The building is a pole barn style (girts and purlins) with metal roof and metal walls. For the ceiling (roof) insulation, I have R25 fiberglass batts placed between the 2 x 8 purlins (24” on center) covered with white plastic sheeting. For the walls, I contstructed 2 x 4 inner walls (16” on center) which provided space for 5 ½” fiberglass batts for insulation (the extra 1 ½ inches of space came from the width of the girts). I covered the wall studs with OSB sheeting so I could hang anything on the walls anywhere I wanted. I also installed a commercial ceiling fan about three feet down from the peak of the ceiling. The woodstove came from my house when I upgraded to a larger woodstove in the house. The woodstove in the shop is a Regency 2400 series with a 75,000 BTU capacity. I also live in the Pacific northwest (the Willamette Valley in western Oregon). I can tell you that on a day that barely makes the freezing mark, I can easily keep my shop at 70 degrees. The air is always dry, even when you walk in first thing in the morning. The ceiling fan is a must; I reduced my firewood use about one-third after I installed it. Also, the ceiling fan makes the temperature throughout the shop much more uniform. I know that you are trying to do something for the interim, but with the size of the building you have, I think I would put all my energy toward the final product. I think I would get the walls and ceiling to at least an R21 rating, otherwise the shop will be difficult to heat no matter which choice of heating source. If you use portable propane or kerosene heaters for the interim, you will be adding moisture to the air. That heated air with the added moisture will likely condense on objects far away from the source of heat. - John

I will be replacing mine very soon as a maintenance item - no sense in taking a chance for unnecessary damage. You must have treated your clutch right! I see by your signature that you have a six speed. What brand is your replacement clutch and how do you like it? - John

So far I have 288,000 miles on my original factory clutch. How many miles do you think you will get from your original factory dual mass flywheel? Sorry..., I just had to ask. Enjoy your new ride! Will you still help us out with questions about our ancient trucks? - John