Youngblood24v

I’m not sure I’ve ever seen flares for the rear dually fenders. I’ll have to google it and see some pics. I have to take a hose to my windows after I drive it because my windows turn white from all the salt ?

I’d suggest not running flares also like @Mopar1973Man has said. My truck is proof. The 1 owner before me ran fender flares and bed lined the undersides of the doors and this was the result. Here in Michigan salt is pretty much on the roads year round. You may not see rust right now under your flares but in time guarantee you will. Unless you monthly take them off and wash the fenders really good then that may slow down the rusting process

That’s what I thought he meant but I already have my boost scaling set at 40psi

It’s not bad driving it, I just can definitely tell it takes a lot more throttle to spool it up. I guess I’ll just live with it until this summer. Once I’m out of college I’ll be able to put it into the barn and start tearing it down. Thanks for the help

Is setting to 150% all the way safe without headstuds? I don’t wanna push it too hard and have to change a head gasket in this cold weather

Pull 1 from corner.csv Pull 2 death wobble.csv When you say to change the low pump boost scale to 40 what do you mean? The max that I can set it to is 25.

That’s what I figured it was. I’ll talk to the guys over at HSI and see what injectors they suggest. I only drive this truck maybe 50 miles in a week due to living on campus at college. I drove it 1.5hrs (100miles) this evening and it’s still very driviable That’s what I figured it was. I’ll talk to the guys over at HSI and see what injectors they suggest. I only drive this truck maybe 50 miles in a week due to living on campus at college. I drove it 1.5hrs (100miles) this evening and it’s still very driviable

Yes still stock injectors, this summer I’m tearing into the engine and doing valve spring, push rods, studs, injectors, etc. 67mm compressor he351cw with a springgate. I’ve been trying to find a 1/8-27 npt tap at a store so I can install my egt probe just I’m coming up empty. Might just have to order one online

Put a new turbo on my truck and my normal “hot tune” isn’t cutting it. Seems really laggy still. Should I amp up my fueling some more? Normal daily driving seems really laggy and I noticed my boost pressure is lower. Can’t find any leaks so I believe I need to adjust my tuning. Also have 2 data logs attatched of some small pulls that I will post up later tonight Power Levels:6 Timing Fuel Load Timing:2 Low PSI Timing Reduct:1 Timing Reduct Scaling:100 Light Throttle Timing Adv:2.5 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit:10 Timing vs rpm 1500:16 2000:18 2500:23 3000:25 Timing Max:26 Wiretap Pump Stretch:2200 TPS Pump max:100 TPS Pump Min:0 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:20 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 0 Boost Scaling:40 RPM Limit:3400 Power Reduction:25% 0 PSI %:115 1 PSI %:115 2 PSI %:115 3 PSI %:115 4 PSI %:117 5 PSI %:119 6 PSI %:121 7 PSI %:123 8 PSI %:124 9 PSI %:125 10 PSI %:128 11 PSI %:131 12 PSI %:134 13 PSI %:137 14 PSI %:140 15 PSI %:143 16 PSI %:146 18 PSI %:149 20 PSI %:150 22 PSI %:150 24 PSI %:150 26 PSI %:150 28 PSI %:150 30 PSI %:150

So it would be fine for me to adjust the light throttle % to say 37% on my truck while running moparmans economy?

@Mopar1973Man What is a safe light load % in your opinion? My big turd is around 34-35% going 65mph. I plan on cab swapping the truck this summer and I’ll be redoing all by brakes in hopes that it will bring this down a little. I’m also thinking about lowering the entire truck a couple inches. But for now I’m stuck with what I got. I keep getting varying opinions on what I should set my load to. I’m on stock injectors still and no studs. Just filled up my gas tank and am running your “21 mpg” tune on lvl 3 and am wanting to get your opinion on why load % I should set it to. Thanks

That’s one thing I don’t like also. It startles me most of the time when it jump up to 1200 rpm even knowing that it’s going to do that ?

Is this with or without wire tap? 21mpg is pretty impressive. Congrats I end up just switching my vehicle type to regular v2 and then take screenshots of the tune details. Only downfall is you got to set your settings every time you change profiles ? @kzimmer It wouldn’t let me upload the first 2 pics but here’s the info: power lvls: 7 rpm limit: 3200 valet: 90% pump stretch: 2200 tps max: 100 tps min: 10 min pump: 0 pump low boost: 0 boost scale: 30 max load: 1

It is all 1/2” line from the pump straight to the vp. I bypassed the factory fuel bowl. I did take the spring and ball out and added a spacer to bump my psi up from 16 at idle to 20 and it adventually settled at 18psi after running the truck for a bit. It has a new (2 month old now) quadzilla guage so I don’t think it faulty. More than likely it’s a worn pump then. Guess I’ll have to take the $500 kick in the gut on a new 4g motor sometime ?

So I bought a used airdog off my buddy a couple month ago. It is the older version. Everything works on it but I’ve been noticing that it doesn’t keep pressure constant. I set it to 18psi at idle but if I really get on it it will go down to around 11psi on a really hot tune. Is this a sign of my motor getting weak? I’ve seen some write-ups that you can order a 4g motor from airdog and it will fit on my airdog. Is this drop in psi normal or is it getting weak? Or is their something I can do to keep it at a more constant psi all throughout my throttle position?

Just an update on my load %. Ditched the toolbox and got a topper. I noticed a 5% decrease at cruising speeds! Haven’t filled my truck all the way up in a while to check my mpgs but I’m assuming they’ve gone up a little unless the cold weather is taking effect on them too. I should have gotten a topper sooner! Holds all my ice fishing gear perfectly and dry out of the snow

It’s built to 700hp and still under warranty so I’m not worried about hurting it at all. @IBMobile I’ve been looking at your write-up. Looks like a good option to go with. I also have been looking at Me’s write up on how he put it into the gear shifter like how you did. I really like that location.

I’ve been trying to do some research of what the purpose of a lock up switch is but can’t find a clear answer. I get that it’s used to lock up the convertor but what I can’t find a clear answer on is under what scenarios would you want to use a lock up switch? I know this is a newbie question but I just don’t know the answer to it ?

Question about fuel gelling: so yesterday it was -1 all last night and I went to go start my truck at around 2pm. Got in and it started right up like normal but my fuel psi gauge was at 15psi (normally idles at 18-20) then within 10 seconds it dropped right down to 0 and the truck would smoke when high idle kicked on. The truck still ran great and sounded great like it really didn’t have 0psi of fuel pressure. After about 10 minutes of idling the fowl pressure just randomly started to go up a psi every couple seconds until I hit 20 psi and then it ran good for the rest of the day. Went to the store and put some howes in so if it did gel up it won’t happen again. Sorry for the novel but is this my fuel gelling up? Never had something gel up before so don’t know what to look for. Thanks

This is my set-up, cheap tablet off eBay for about $40.(hoping to upgrade to a Samsung tablet soon) and then I gotta a suction/magnet mount from walmart. This mount is great! The magents are really strong. Never had the tablet fall off even while driving off road. Battery life does suck so I leave it plugged in 24/7 and it hasn’t drained my battery’s yet

Couldn’t you just put the quad on a switch inside the truck? I’ve been thinking of doing so because since the cold weather is starting here in Michigan everyone’s vehicles in the campus parking lot aren’t starting cuz they let them sit all week and go to start them on Friday and have a dead battery. Also that would help when beinging your truck to a shop. Just have a switch that you put to “off” and your quad box can’t get hurt from an unknowing tech that could possibly get it.

Figured out the problem today. I was driving and went to go shift into shift into reverse to back out of my spot and I bumped the key a little and all the lights came back on. I guess since it’s been so cold lately that when I go to start the truck my key never goes back to the “run” position it just stays partly in the “crank” position.

Ok. Hopefully it is something easy like a fuse. Then I gotta dig into why the fuse blew in the first place. Thanks for all the help so far

I guess I can do that. But even worse if that my fan switches aren’t working either so the heat will just be trickling out ? guess I’m gunna have to bundle up with all my hunting stuff ?