stodg73

You could get a SMARTY for you turck, it is a scanner and a programmer.

Welcome to Mopar1973Man!!!! Lots of very knowledgable people on this site. Again, Welcome!!!

Drive safe in the white stuff!

'01.5 QCLB 35 gallon tank. Lots of $$$$ to fill.

Subscribing to this. If the charge air is going into the intercooler at 55* and coming out at 35* and the IAT sees this as too low, it dumps more fuel in, per the ECM? If you change/fool the IAT into thinking that the charge air is 75* instead of 35* then this is where the ECM is getting into the mileage settings? The end results will be interesting.

Welcome to the site.

Welcome to the site!! There are a lot of knowledgable guys on here.

Link is: http://stores.ebay.com/GLOWSHIFT-GAUGES

Here is a link to their Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/GLOWSHIFT-GAUGES Things are going good. Did you get your W/M setup tuned in?

I have the 3-in-1 from them. Works very well. Cost was right at $200 for it.

95,600 as of tomorrow. All mods are in my sig.

They each need their own, Lazy-Boy. Good looking Dogs!!

I have looked a lot of places and Amazon is the cheapest I have found, with a slight warranty.

On Amazon about $160. ScanGauge from Amazon

Just push the button on the right to see if you have that feature. I think mine goes temp/compass, miles, DTE, ECO, and hours. And mine is also an 01.5.

You can look in the glove box and find the axle ratio on the information sheet on the door, or you might find it on the radiator support under the hood.

Just wanted to wish you a great day!!!!!!

Upgrading your diesel. In order to upgrade your diesel from stock, you should have a baseline of readings in order to know what has changed. Also, if you do multiple upgrades at one time and something goes wrong, you will not know which upgrade caused the problem or error code. In order to know what is happening to the engine, you should have at the minimum compliment of aftermarket gauges. At the minimum for Dodges, you need a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and EGT gauge. Those with automatic transmissions should also have a transmission temperature gauge. With these gauges and a stock engine you will proceed to gather information as to how well the engine is running. Starting with a baseline of readings, you will be able to determine what is happening to the engine and transmission as you add more upgrades. The suggested order for upgrades should be as follows: 1. Gauges: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3114-Dodge-Gauges 2. Better intake, i.e. CAI, ram air, etc. 3. Bigger exhaust, 4” is for about 500 HP, 5” for 500+ HP and deeper sound 4. Transmission, i.e. better clutch for manuals or stronger bands, billet input shaft, torque converter, valve body, etc. for auto’s 5. Fuel system 6. Larger injectors 7. Fueling box or chip, timing 8. Larger turbo By doing these upgrades in this suggested order, you will be able to know what is happening to your engine as they are being added. With the addition of gauges, the next step is to get the air into and out of the engine, as diesels are large air pumps. The easier in, the easier out, the cooler the engine will run, i.e. lower EGT temps, and less of a chance of damaging the engine. Most transmissions are sometimes just barely able to hold the stock power that is produced. When you start upgrading the engine, the transmission will start to suffer. So upgrading the transmission before it is destroyed/slipping is easier than buying a new or replacement. When upgrading the fuel system, you can get a larger lift pump to supply more fuel to the injection pump. When doing this you should also upgrade the fuel delivery lines to a larger size. This is to allow or more fuel to be moved from the tank to the IP, and the excess fuel is returned to the tank along with cooling the injector pump. The next upgrade should be injectors. Depending on your application is what type of injector that you will need. For Dodges with the VP-44 injection pump, the most common are RV275’s which give about 45 hp. The fueling box/chip and timing promoter can be any number of manufacturers. Depending on your application, is what type of electronic device that you will want. With certain electronics, you can stack them with others. Therefore, whichever chip/programmer that you choose, be sure that you do your research. Now, in considering a larger turbo, you need to think about the application. Also, think about twins, triples, or quads, these are also known as compound turbos. When going to a larger turbo, there comes into play the turbo lag. The spool up of the turbo may become a problem , as to making excess smoke when just applying light amounts of throttle. When using compound turbos, the smaller turbo fills in for the turbo lag of the larger one. Making the smoke problem easier to control. More Information to be added.

If you are looking for gauges for your Dodge Cummins truck, you need to decide what type that you want. Do you want mechanical or electronic. Both have their good and bad points. You are the one who needs to decide as to what type of gauges that you want. You can ask for opinions as to who likes theirs the best, yet you are the one purchasing the gauge set. The necessary gauges needed for a stock truck are: Fuel Pressure, EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), Boost, and for Automatic Transmission owners, Trans. Temp. FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE A gauge that goes from 0 – 30 psi will do fine. Is using an electronic gauge, you need either a snubber hose and or a needle valve. The snubber hose is just a grease gun extension to move the sender away from the vibrations of the engine, make sure that there is a 90* bend in the hose to help alleviate the ‘water hammer’ effect of the IP. A needle valve from NAPA, part number WH6820, will do, also with the needle valve you can shut off the diesel from coming into the cab. You will also need a tapped banjo bolt to attach to the post fuel filter for fuel pressure. You will also need a 1/8” – 27 pipe union. With an electronic gauge there is no diesel fuel in the cab. With a mechanical gauge, there is the possibility of fuel being introduced into the cab. Also, with the mechanical gauges, there are isolators that are filled with antifreeze to keep diesel away from the cab. Parts list: Fuel pressure gauge, mechanical or electronic, complete kit Snubber hose, grease gun hose. 1/8” – 27 pipe union, preferably brass, steel will work. Teflon tape Tapped banjo bolt Needle valve, NAPA part number WH6820 Multiple cable/zip ties EGT GAUGE A digital gauge will give you an almost instantaneous readout of the temperature, and a mechanical gauge will be a little slower. To put the probe into the exhaust manifold, mark the manifold into quarters, drill in the back 1/4 of the manifold. This will put the probe in the back cylinders, as these are the ones that generally run hotter. When tapping the exhaust manifold, go into the manifold about 4 threads on the tap, then take the tap out and check to see if you get a good seat for the probe. The reason that you do this is to prevent a blowout of the probe as the NPT threads are slightly angled to get a seal. When drilling and tapping, you can use multiple methods of cleaning out the shavings, you can use a shop vacuum while drilling and tapping, or use grease on the bit and tap to catch the shavings, changing the grease multiple times. When done drilling and tapping, use a magnet to get as much of the filings out of the manifold as possible, then you can start up the truck and blow the rest out the exhaust through the turbo. Another method is taking the exhaust manifold off the truck and drilling/tapping on a bench. Parts List: EGT gauge, mechanical or electronic, complete kit Appropriate drills and taps, per kit Multiple cable/zip ties BOOST GAUGE You can either tap the intake horn, or use a boost bolt. For tapping the intake horn, you need to take the horn off so that no shavings get into to engine. Using a boost bolt, you just replace one of the bolts holding on the intake manifold cover. The boost bolt is tapped inside so that you can easily place the sender. Be careful about over tightening the boost bolt as it is very thin metal. Parts List: Electronic or Mechanical gauge, complete kit Boost Bolt or drill and tapping supplies Teflon Tape Multiple cable/zip ties Possibly need a 2” 1/8” – 27 nipple and union to raise the sensor up to tighten TRANS TEMP GAUGE Depending you your transmission, and if you have put a different pan on, is where you will be able to put the sensor. When doing this, it would be appropriate to change you ATF and filter, and also possibly putting in a better valve body. Parts List: Electronic or Mechanical gauge, complete kit Appropriate drill/tapping supplies Teflon tape Multiple cable/zip ties Now, for the fuel pressure gauge on VP-44 trucks, you need to keep you lift pump pressure above 10 psi, most try to keep it above 14 psi at idle. By doing so, you are attempting to lengthen the life of the VP-44 injection pump. If you see a pressure of 10 psi or less, you need to replace the lift pump. There are many manufacturers of lift pumps available to choose from; i.e. Raptor, AirDog, FASS, etc. Be careful about purchasing any lift pump that mount to the block, as the vibrations from the engine are harmful. The EGT gauge lets you see how hard you are working your engine. The higher the temperature, the more fuel you are using. When you are working the engine, you need to keep in mind that aluminum melts at about 1250*. This means that you can have an EGT of 1250* for short periods of time, less than 30 seconds, before damage may begin. When you get up to these temperatures, it is better to downshift and bring the RPMs of the engine up in order to dissipate the heat from the engine before any damage occurs. For the Boost gauge, a stock truck may produce up to 20 lbs of boost. When you start getting higher than this, you need to have some type of fooler on the vehicle in order to not throw any DTC error codes. For the transmission temperature gauge, cooler is better. What I mean by this is that a transmission that runs at 150* will last longer than one run at 220*, because heat reduces the longevity of the internal components. When hooking up the power inside the truck, use a test light to see if you can find an ignition controlled fuse, either in the inside fuse panel or under the hood, same with constant power, try not to come straight from the battery. For the gauge illumination lights controlled by the headlight switch, this may be tough for the test light may be dim in direct sunlight and you may not be able to see it illuminate, and look in the interior fuse panel for this. If you use the interior fuse panel, get some add-a-fuses to make the job easier. For some vehicles, you may have to tap into the headlight wiring harness under the dash. When I mounted my gauges, I used a separate fuse block to run constant power, ignition, and headlight power to. This way I only had to run one wire from each to the new block, and fused them accordingly. When finding a ground for everything, find a likely spot and use a self tapping screw to hold the ground wires down. Depending on where you mount the gauges, be it on the A pillar, a gauge cluster on the dash, or elsewhere, please take into consideration that you may need to lengthen the wiring accordingly. Be ready to use either solderless connectors or soldered connectors for the ends of the wires. Also, you can also use heat shrink tubing to control the wires and make them easier to run/place. More information to be posted.

Yes, that is true. If using the snubber, make sure that you have at least a 90* bend in it. This way the impulses from the VP are absorbed. With the needle valve, you open it just enough to get the gauge to move and show the pressure.

The needle valve is from NAPA, part number WH6820. If you use a snubber, a grease gun hose will work.

For boost, if stock, 0-20 psi. Depending on load and terrain. For fuel pressure you want to see over 12 psi all the time to keep the VP44/Injection Pump happy. For EGT you will see the low range of the gauge to max of 1250* for short time periods, less than 30 seconds. Auto trans you will want to keep it below 220*. Heat destroys autos. Others will chime in.

That is a nice setup John.

For fuel pressure, you need a 0 - 30 psi gauge.For boost pressure, also a 0 - 30 psi gauge.For EGT, 0 - 1500+ gauge. You will also need and auto transmission gauge, 0 - 300*. Correct, the normal place that the EGT probe installed is in the exhaust manifold, in the rear outlet, preturbo. With the EGT gauge, I have one that goes up to 2200*. Others will chime in.

Have you thought about Husqvarna saws. The 570 series or 370 series are professional grade with about 5.5 hp, able to run up to 36" bars and are lightweight in about 14 lbs for the powerhead only. I have been using these saws for the past 10 years and they are reliable and extremely fast cutting.