Silverwolf2691

I was wrong.. Just did some reading, apparently the earlier trucks (early 98 and back) were the pattern you have.. Learn something new everyday (DASH) 2H 4L 4H N N 2H 4L 4H 12 valves seem to have the pattern on the left while vp44 trucks had the pattern on the right. seems to line up like that at least. might have been a hold over from the np203's and 205's.

6x16s or an equivalent 7 x XXX might be beneficial. Finer spray from the 7 holes might help with smoke and a smidge with mpgs.. Probably a 7x14 or 7x15. Best to call dap.. Edit: just did some math for cross sectional area, 7x015 are just a fraction of a hair larger than 6x016s. (pi*r^2)*# of holes for total cross sectional area 7 x .015 = .001236375 in^2 6 x .016 = .00120576 in^2 6 x .013 = .00079599 in^2 Your current injectors are about 33% smaller area wise than the minimum recommended size.

Something is wrong with the t-case then... that pattern is very much how 2500 is and how my old 1500 used to be. Unless some how someone put a jeep transfer case in (np231j).. np231j's are the only ones I know that are "progressive shift" instead of the "split shift". Crawl under and check the tag on the transfer case for the model. Should be a round metal tag stamped with model and low range gear.

If i was a betting man, I'd say yes you do. From the other thread for the injectors, i think that points to yes. The other thing is you had every other upgrade needed for dragon flow pump; the lines, the connector tubes, the injectors even if they were bad.. all of it was there for a huge high Performance pump. To just stick an SO/HO pump on it seems counter productive to the rest of the build, turbo, cam, dual springs.. tbh its set up like i would set up a very low end 2.6 or high end work stock truck for sled pulling, which i think you mentioned it was in one of your previous threads

6x13 or 7x13? Not going against DAP, but I'd go with what the manufacturer of the part specifically mentions.. For the digging I did, it seems that monster pumps, lightning pumps, and dragon flows all add some amount of timing, and they increase the pressure and flow. Specifics to the above are about as easy to find as a live hippogriff.. The pumps need the extra volume from the lines, connector tubes, and injectors to flow the added volume needed in the short amount of time the distributor rotor is open to that line. If the pump cant move the fuel through the injector holes fast enough, it can cause damage to the vp44 itself. Think trying to squeeze water out of a bottle with a 1/32 hole vs a 1/8 hole both are gonna have resistance but the 1/8 hole is gonna release the pressure faster and flow more per stroke. I wish jlbayes was on here still. Tfaoro too. Both of them were heavy on the performance side, Jlbayes more so than tfaoro. Jlbayes might have been able to explain a bit better..

@IBMobile, you have for as long as I remember had 1984 in your signature. I did read that in high school (middle school?). I didn't read Fahrenheit 451, however. Also saw the movie for 1984. And looking back on it there are both parallels and what feels like almost blatant lifts from the book. Your safety/small freedoms for compliance, the constant monitoring of our daily lives everywhere, the double think/brainwashing if you speak out against the ruling body. That book was supposed to be a warning NOT an instruction manual. The lawlessness stems from the covid thing where a large portion of the countries' police force went no contact, no pull over, etc. If the cops aren't going to respond, what's to stop them? Got an easy way for things to change in the capitol.. They are now volunteers working for the country. Makes sure everyone who goes there wants to go there for something other than money.. and you have the same term limits as the president.

I think you might be running into the injector size issue. Dragon flows are posted for sale with a minimum of 6 x .016 injector. That's roughly a 4-500hp injector. You might be killing the injectors with the injection pump. Especially since it was 3 sets in a short amount of time. I would start leaning towards yes you have a dragon fire pump and need the injectors to match it.

For starters, are you sure you didn't break the brand new cable? I ask this not as insult but because the angle of the cable sheath has a very high load where it connects to the latch mechanism. a slight knock in the wrong direction could snap the tiny flange that the mechanism locks into. I've never heard of anybody adjusting any thing in the doors, mostly because the inner handle doesn't actuate the latches directly. It actuates the outer door handle, which then actuates the latches. (I'm going off of memory from my 1500.. been a few years lol)

The hidden expenses are DEF, and lack of fuel economy.. When you load these newer trucks with a decent trailer, the DEF usage goes way way up. And because of the "continuous" passive regen that these do, unless you got a 2wd (and even then) don't expect window sticker fuel economy, and most likely the mpg average is approx 2 mpg high. My average is 15.77 with an all time high of 18 and some change. All calc'd miles divided by gallons. Second gen gets 15.60 average. That's just my observations from my year with my truck. @JAG1, the torque on these trucks even my standard output model is there and you feel it. But the transmissions do a good job of wrangling that and not breaking everything. With the electrical nannies that are loaded in mine and im sure Turbo Terry's truck (lesser extent due to the tradesman level), there isn't a lot that will upset them driving wise. @Turbo Terry, don't know how upfitted your truck is but the forward collision can be turned down and/or off, same with blind spot monitoring. Your traction control when turned off comes in to a lesser extent if wheel speed goes above 40 mph. Not sure if adaptive cruise control was an option for you. If it was, I recommend it more for the two lane roads (one lane each way) more than the highway/freeway. People cutting in front of you to merge will cause the truck to brake aggressively. And yes the adaptive cruise control will stop and take off again if the pause was less than 3 seconds. It is weird feeling, I hovered my foot a hair over the brake pedal the first time I did it. I wish you luck and congratulations on the new truck. I hope your experience with the truck is much better than mine.

Try putting cruise timing around 4-6° and pull the load percent back to around 25-27%. Minimum pump tap I think should be zero. The data log is not a viewable file unless you have a spreadsheet program (excel/google sheets type program). It's a file type called .csv. On my tablet I have to save to my google drive because other options are Gmail, Bluetooth, or nearby share. Google Drive I at least have multi platform viewing of my data logs. I don't use the excel tune builder usually, but there isn't a input (output?) to quad from there (far as I'm aware). You still have to manually enter everything into the parameters. I have never downloaded a tune from the site either so I'm unsure of that process either. I should also ask are you needing help fine tuning or are you trying to just get something running? If I had to guess there is added timing built into the dragon flow vp44, so that's going to be the biggest variable in getting your timing right. The other is the 4.10s, unless you have 35s.. I'm having good power results on my 4.10s and 285/70r17 tires down at 11° at 1500 rpm then going up +4.5 from there. To get something resembling stock you might have to pull even more than that on your base curve...

+50s and maxed out wire tap and can bus while sled pulling net me 30 psi with a closed off wastegate. I think the drive pressure might be blowing the waste gate open though.. Haven't wired it shut to test the theory, might actually be the full max amount of boost I can hit sustained. @Dieselfuture, I like the vent ornament.

Whatever psi you have when when cruising, is where your flat spot should be. Mine happens to be around 0-5 psi. I'm mostly in town in my day to day (50mph and down). I'm dealing with smoke issues right now and I'm actually starting my +50s at 85%. Not sure why but that's its own thread.. so my fueling curve looks like this 0-5 psi: 85% 6-20 psi: +2 from 85 (ends up around 108%) 22-30 psi: +4 (ends at 128%) Try it and see how that works for you. You don't need the +4 on the end psi's, that's just my tune and I'm debating about pulling it out anyway due to smoke reasons. If you get the cruise timing up, you can drop the boost to almost nothing. That's why I have my tune set up the way I do. I run around with almost no boost while maintaining speed.. Quadzilla is hard to just go "do this, do this, do this and you should get this." because we have the refinement in fueling and timing you can't just crowd source info. Everything gets tailored to your individual truck. Its almost the way the standalone ecu's are. You can get something to start the motor with a call, but that's about all it will do, start and idle, maybe rev. its going to knock, spit fire and smell like raw fuel though. You still need to get in and tweak and tune almost everything to get it running right. Might need a boost elbow or a spring gate. Spring gate goes off of drive pressure rather than boost pressure. I think for safety/liability reasons the wastegate is shipped at 40 psi.

I feel like your timing is way out of whack.. I agree with @Threadzy, bump low psi timing reduct to 5 and put 50% in for scaling. (I run 100% for scaling, just in case you want to try it) Add some cruise timing (light throttle timing adv). Start at 30% for light throttle load limit then work backwards. Try 12,16.5, 21, 25.5, 30 for the timing sliders. Your possible Dragon Flow pump might also have a large impact on your timing curve. Actually, it might be semi negated by the large injection lines.. need to do some digging on that.. Your fueling curve is a bit weird (odd jumps in fueling) and and is a bit quick on the fuel (factory fuel by ~8psi).. Personally I like linear fueling curves, I have 0-5 psi as a flat spot because that where I run mostly when driving, then each psi is +2 from the flat spot. Above 20 psi is +4 but I'm thinking of removing that and keeping the +2 all the way. Too much smoke (for me) when it gets above 20 psi.. There isn't a large enough range for the timing to do damage, just makes drivability poor.

If you are staying factory, there isn't a "bar" like heim joint setups. Each piece is the tie rod end 08.5+ upgrade (t-style) on top, normal 2nd gen (y-style) on bottom. On both the only small tie rod end is at the drivers wheel and pitman arm (right side of image). Those are your tie rod ends, when you order them you will get two small boxes and two long boxes. You cant press them out because each end is forged or cast as one piece then I believe machined for everything making up the tie rod end. Once worn, its worn, no replaceable small parts. There is a thing called Luke's links, I don't remember what they did specifically for the tie rod end but it wasn't some thing that I liked the idea of so I didn't look further into it. I think it added a preload or "adjustability" to each end. Drag link is pitman arm to passenger knuckle, tie rod is knuckle to knuckle or knuckle to draglink.

My high idle hasn't worked right since I got it, but its the dealerships fault. I can see the values changing when switching between modes, but after sitting for over 3 minutes, no high idle while all the way over in 3cyl. I think the tech didn't actually make the selection on the page. Bit salty about that. Maybe this year I'll get around to it...

I have my warm up set to 160°F with the delay at 45 seconds. It will auto set to PL0 on a cold start, then revert to last power level prior to cold start. Its up to you for how you want it set up. I set mine longer so it has time to circulate oil before ramping up, and so it doesn't happen at stop lights.. Happened a couple times before I went really far with the time.

Settings Warmup mode setting High idle delay

PSC also makes a high volume pump. It uses a physically larger pump to begin with along with some mods to the relief valve. Originally they were pump only, needing to reuse the original reservoir, but I believe they now come with a new reservoir. Just checked their site and they only show the remote mount ones. Possibly supply issues?

I have a smattering of parts on my truck, I went with the goal of higher initial investment with lower price replaceable ends. Lets see if I remember everything lol: Steering linkages: synergy steering box: blue top steering pump: rebuild from NAPA ball joints: synergy (30k so far, need to double check play. Going with EMF next) wheel bearings: timken or skf. had both, dont last as long due to the offset of my rims. ujoints: spicer spl - coated track bar: DOR adjustable, needs a rebuild on the ends. sway bar: stock with Moog bushings and BD diesel end links control arms: Carli also have the rock solid ram bushing for the steering column When replacing things like bearings, it was drilled into me to replace both at the same time, because usually the other is not far behind in failing. Ball joints I follow the same logic. Your sway bar itself should be fine, just need s new bushings and end links. Since you have a leveling kit control arms will help get your geometry back into shape. This is an inherent design into the 00-02 dana 60 axle, there's nothing you can do about it, unless you want custom everything. The way the ball joints are set up make them act more like a kingpin type axle. All the weight on the bottom, the top just keeps it in line. I'm assuming you found this article: https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/interesting-info-about-00-02-ball-joints.475650/ @Mopar1973Man , due to his setup, is much less plagued by the ball joint geometry. Larger tires and deep lip offsets multiply the forces exerted by driving immensely and it all gets absorbed by the bearings and ball joints. Even my rims on my truck are too far out for my liking, and I think they are part of why my wheel bearings were starting to have issues when I did them a couple months ago.

TFaoro did an article for his engine rebuild. I think he also posted the end amount of money he spent. It was around $10k if I am remembering correctly. He did do some upgrades while he was in there rebuilding things, adding to the cost. After watching my brother frame off restore a cj7 with an AMC 360 v8, I can tell you for sure its not the big stuff that gets you. Yeah it hurts initially but its when everything is getting put back together that you get into "crap I need this bolt/o-ring/seal/knob/sensor/etc" and the cost plus shipping adds up and takes time. Takes even more time if you cant get the parts anymore.

Set of 255/85r17 would help with the dually if you have 4.10s and 17s. 3.73 gears allow the usual 33"/275/285 sized tires to be run. Looks like im getting a set of 35s for my truck. My birthday was on the 22nd and my parents are getting them for me as a gift. @Mopar1973Man, whats the rotational weight equivalent per pound that you found? That was factored in against supply, tire weight, and size..

Tiresize.com has a similar size area for tires might look there for some direction https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/245-75R16.htm go to alternate sizes and see what you like. 215/85r16 would be real pizza cutters for winter lol. Almost the same size but around an inch narrower.

If may weigh in on this, because hopefully I'll be swapping tires soon, trucks that have 4.10s from the factory are in an interesting spot. From the factory, our tires are undersized for economy, bar none. At 60 mph, with 285/70r17s, I'm turning 2000 rpm. It sounds like the engine is screaming when doing 70-75 down the highway. While I haven't gone through my truck to ease up on weight or drag like @Mopar1973Man has (yet), 15 mpg is my average. I have tried messing with the quadzilla but cant seem to match the theories that Mike has brought forth and found to be true. I think there is a crossover point with the rpms, vehicle speed, fueling, timing, and oil temp that trucks with 4.10s on smaller tires (sub 34") cant hit without changing things around. If you plan on going to larger tires ever, start at 4.10s. The calculator we like to use is from tiresize.com - https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ Warning for using this calculator: you need to know the factory size tires to use this right I believe. I know one size is 265/75r16, I'm not sure of the rest. 35s with 4.10s will give a 3.71 effective ratio 37s with 4.10s will give a 3.51 effective ratio. 34s give a 3.82 33s are 3.92 So for the person who wants to run a 33 inch tire would need 3.73s to not have to put pizza cutters on like Mikes truck, (no offense). So there are two drawbacks with some of the stuff above. Re-gearing to 3.73s is expensive, and putting 35s on is going to raise the truck. This increases frontal area and drag plus 35s are getting heavy. 70+lbs for just the tire. Also depending on the rims you will rub with 35s and possibly at a minimum have to level the truck, further increasing frontal area and drag.

They are within a psi or 2 for my truck, but after 30 psi it becomes a crap shoot. @01_Cummins_4x4, if you swipe the screen right to left you can find 2 other gauge layouts, then tap that up arrow on the bottom center of your photo and add all the info you want the quad to provide. Follow @Me78569's tuning guide to find your starting percentage. I don't know where it went though..

If it is a dragon flow you might have to pull timing lower than most of us. If you didn't play with the can bus fueling I think that's just factory fueling (100%) with wire tap added on top. Also, welcome to the club!