ISX

The #0 plate is as close to running no plate as it gets.. Meaning it is the most fuel you can get with a plate still in it. You might leave it alone and just mess with the AFC as AFC stuff will most likely not do any harm. If you lug it and floor it then EGT can get up there but having an auto it will kick down so you don't really have that problem. What do you mean by out 3/4? The plate really only determines fueling when you have boost built and are getting on it pretty good, it's kinda a virtual block under the pedal. Low end power relies a lot on the AFC settings so it is going to be where most of the concern lies. I have no clue how good autos are so am not sure what exactly it could handle with that mod.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Xn7rVLG9ME

Pushing those towards the cab defuels it.. Push the plate at least to the middle of the travel and push the AFC all the way forward (towards the radiator). The starwheel is centered in the hole stock, you want to turn it so that it threads towards the radiator, whichever way that may be, you just have to crank on it a bit and you'll see which way the starwheel is going. It will go all the way until you can't even see it. Then it should have some low end power. Change the fuel filter/air filter set your valves at 8/18 and it will smoke a 24V off the line.With a #0 plate you should definitely have an EGT gauge as well as knowing that if the auto is stock, it won't last long with that much power going to it.

I got the same ones from the same place.

Normally it should run around 190 +/- 5F. I wouldn't think the fan would ever turn on with an unloaded truck unless you were going fast up a hill. Check your radiator for oil contamination since that blow by tube likes to puke all over it. If radiator is clear then I wouldn't worry about it. A hotter engine is more efficient, as long as it's not going over 212.

The short piece to the left in the pic has the splines going into it. The long piece on the right has the splined shaft welded to it. You might try taking it to a machine shop if all else fails. If it were me I would get a strap, maybe even a small chain, and hook it around the inside of the ujoint and then to something solid, then do the same to the other side but put a come-along in there so you can ratchet the thing apart.

I finally got around to doing this, well not really I just threw it all together so it is kinda repetitive and you'll just have to excuse my horrible skills at showing people how stuff works. BUT, this shows a crapload more than you'll ever see anywhere else and I should probably be getting paid for it but oh well. Without further delay, heres 25 minutes of explaining. Everything else has already been explained in a write up: [*]Fuel Plate [*]Fuel Shutoff Solenoid [*]Smoke Screw [*]AFC (Starwheel) http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3S65hqFaUo Some things to note that I forgot to mention: This is a 215HP pump, as you can tell from the retarding notches. The notches are on the very top of the plunger, you can see a slight recess up there, all other pumps are completely flat on top. It retards the timing because the spill port is left uncovered for just a bit longer since it travels into the notch rather than being covered by the plunger and allowing fuel to compress, this delay means injection happens later, retarding the timing. It is 4* delayed at the most recessed part of that notch. Another thing is that the oil inlet is TINY, it restricts the flow of oil into the pump so that it has a constant slow oil feed. It drains out the front very slowly. Any more questions? Feel free to ask.

When I was testing with valve lashes between the min and max tolerances one thing can definitely say is that tighter lash does not in any way increase the EGT. I can see why it would possibly, but it just doesn't happen.

Whoa the 1998+ gauges are drawn a lot different. Yeah ignore what I said.

Johnfak has a "4" Bullydog SS TB exhaust" and I must say, that thing is niceeee. Polished chrome.. I might have to get one one of these days. Of course then I would have to chrome plate everything else to cover the ungodly cab as seen from underneath but until then yeah a stainless chrome exhaust is definitely incredible looking. You always think of exhausts as being rusty or just dull but his really turns that around.

I'm loving these airbags. I aired them up Sunday and haven't touched them since. Drives perfect, rides perfect, I see no disadvantages with them. The stock suspension is supposed to ride above the overloads, by a good bit, maybe 3" from each bump stop, maybe even more, not sure since mine is always so close to them. Anyhow I aired the bags up to get it back to where it is supposed to sit and now its absolutely perfect. If the bags go flat it doesn't even matter because it can still revert to the overloads. I can see the bags being an issue if you are pulling a huge load and they happen to go flat but as for me, I can't see anything being a problem. Even if they do break, not only am I fine as aforementioned, they have a lifetime warranty so really it's win win. I don't expect them to break anyways since I never go through any mud. I love how I can vary how high or hard I want it to ride. You can get the air compressor thinger with it but I really see reason to having it unless your like cajflynn who is constantly changing loads on the run. If you're like me, you know what you're going to pull, you air them up at the house, drain the air when you're done with the trailer. You can even take one of those 10 gallon air tanks with you since they don't take much to air up. As for timbrens, I have no clue so someone else can vouch for them.

I am going by memory but pretty sure thats what it ran. I used to have an analog gauge in there as well so that's how I know. 1998+ trucks have different gauges so that might be a little off from your's. My old crappy thermostat would always peg that upper line and I remember always seeing 210-212 and then it would fall to the lower line which was around 150. Now it gets to 190 and drops to 185 and stays in that 5F area.

It's definitely the premo spot, thinking about getting another one and setting it up for oil pressure since the stock gauge is going nuts and it's nothing but an indicator anyways. Plan was to put it right next to the EGT one. That would make for 4 red displays at night

I got a brush guard that leaves no access room in there so you gotta push the latch and push the hood up with your fingers (when using one hand), I didn't get it up far enough lol. Let me know if you need any other vids, seriously, I can make them and put them on here so easily and quick it's not even funny

150/210

It's so simple I just went out and made a video to show you.

Why do you think I run 6/15... Its incredible. Still not sure what it does to mileage. I beat the crap out of it, blowing smoke every chance I got, tonsss of city driving and drove more like 65-70 on the highway and still got 24mpg.

I've been looking for this thread and finally found it, should answer a lot/all of your questions. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2432-How-does-a-turbo-work?highlight=overspeed

The valve covers are 10x easier than the 24V ones because they are individual. The big plate thing that says 12V on it is taken off with 2 screws that you will see, then you can throw that thing off and see each valve cover, each has 1 bolt and then it comes off. They each have a gasket under them. My oil pressure is doing the same thing right now, the oil pressure sensor is under the injection pump and above the power steering pump right in the side of the block.

I don't know about 11k. 8-10 is probably reasonable. I guess with the tool boxes and stuff he wants a little more. Yeah, 8-10, nothing more.

I wonder if it has kind of the effect you get when you put your hand over one side of an enclosed fan, it speeds way up because it's just spinning the air inside it rather than pulling air through it. If you have back pressure I believe it does the same thing. I think this causes an overspeed condition under extreme circumstances.

I'm gonna say around 8k since it has a dump bed. If you can figure out a way to get traction then it would be a better plow truck than a 4wd since you don't have to worry about the transfer case or front axle.

I think the backpressure bit is a buncha gossip. I don't see how making the exhaust stroke work harder makes the engine more efficient. As for size, the turbine housing is hardly 3", it's a bottleneck. I think there are some physics involved that show a bigger exhaust to have better flow characteristics. If it is 3" for an inch then 5" the rest of the way and the engine is capable of flowing more than the 3" can handle, maybe at WOT per say, then I think the 5" would show it's abilities. Everyone on here is telling about level ground pulling loads at 55-70mph which, is nothing if I must say. It might be fine with 2.5" doing that. But what about dead mans hill with the same trailer? You're going up it and EGT's are spiking and you're wondering when your pistons are going to melt.. I want to see proof of this and hopefully that diesel power mag shows that 12V in my thread dynoing after they change the exhaust. THracing has a dyno and he probably knows the answer to all of this. My belief is that a bigger exhaust assists in other mods, but does nothing by itself. I put a 5" straight pipe on mine but really don't think much changed. I changed a lot of other things around and now I can pull our trailer up dead mans hill at 70 and have a hard time reaching 1000F.

Any head unit that you get should be labeled really good and the wiring adapter kit is as well. It's as easy as putting red to red orange to orange... They give you crimp connectors but soldering is always the best thing, though I don't see much of an issue with crimps in this situation, not like mud gets in there. Just make sure you know how to crimp lol.

Yes the red one goes to the battery which feeds the whole shpeil of fuses. The black goes to the alternator and crosses to the red one via the 120 amp fuse in between the 2 screws as you have shown in the pic. That red one actually feeds EVERYTHING. The starter and grid heater are the only things that don't tax the red wire since they tie directly to the positive terminal of the battery with their own wires.